Knife and Watch combo. Let's see them!

jbmonkey said:
i know seikos....from grand seikos down to seiko 5s. we are talking prospex and lower grades here....
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Any experience with the higher end, eg seikoluxe? Was curious if they’re worth the extra $. Was thinking of giving one a shot.
 
badmatt said:
8L55 in some of the prospex line up is nice.

But I agree Seiko, unless its a 9F quartz or a spring drive... will be all over the map.


www.watchrecon.com is your friend.. There, secrets out!
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thats really just a grand seiko movement, Matt. we aren't really talking grand seiko movements. more 7s26 and 4r35 and the like.

true I said prospex, but the bulk most here would have don't have grand seiko movements in them.

I've owned a dozen plus seikos, not grand seiko movement ones......and they aren't known for accurate movements and mine werent. tough and durable yep....accurate, nope.
 
jbmonkey said:
thats really just a grand seiko movement, Matt. we aren't really talking grand seiko movements. more 4r35 and the like.

true I said prospex, but the bulk most here would have don't have grand seiko movements in them.

I've owned a dozen plus seikos, not grand seiko movement ones......and they aren't known for accurate movements and mine werent. tough and durable yep....accurate, nope.
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I’ve had this seiko for about a month now and it’s been dead on at +5s a day. It’s the 4r36. Still curious how it will perform in the summer at different temperatures. Haven’t had any luck with the 2824 and another thing I’m not a fan of is that I have the same movement in both the Hamilton($500) and Oris ($1300). Seems like most swiss automatics in a certain price range all have 2824 or sellita 200. Same mechanics different aesthetics it seems. Admittedly I haven’t read up on watches in quite sometime so correct me if I’m wrong.
 
mitchnola said:
I’m not aware of any adjustments that could be made but will look into it. I have looked into getting them serviced. One is a Hamilton which was $2-300, the other is an Oris and if I remember correctly it was $4-500. I also have a Tag that is about 20 years old that needs servicing and that’s around $7-800. Pretty pricey! I would be happy though if they worked as well with a $40 adjustment.

Another turn off for me on the “swiss” made is that only 60 percent of manufacturing costs is required to actually be made in switzerland to be called Swiss made. And determing that is a pretty big grey area. I also have a few “swiss” made that are junk, specifically Luminox. Both being quartz that that began consistently losing time after only a few years and tritium lasting 20yrs is bs.

As of now I’m just turned off on the whole “swiss” made unless spending substantial more $$$.

As said this Seiko has been great out the box, I also have a Seiko kinetic that’s over 30 years old that works flawlessly. And their Lume blows all of my watches away which is important to me. I’ll definitely continue to buy higher end Seikos and I’d like to give some German brands a try, Sinn in particular.
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I have two Oris that are spot on with timekeeping. I have a Hamilton chronograph that is similarly accurate, but Hamilton uses crappy lume in all the watches Ive bought in the past (5-6 of them). My one Luminox automatic is also quite accurate. None of those above needed regulating, and they're on the lower end of my Swiss Made watches. My Victorinox Dive Master 500 came very well regulated too.

But I have about 10 Seiko automatics and almost all of them needed to be regulated for accurate timekeeping, if +/- 20 to 30 seconds wasn't okay with me; and two of them had the 4R35 movement fail within 6 months (turtles) and got replacement movements under warranty. I have 3 NTH (Janis Trading Co micro brand) watches, with Seiko NH35 movements, that were all regulated well before they shipped out to me. So, sometimes it's just hit or miss.
 
mitchnola said:
Any experience with the higher end, eg seikoluxe? Was curious if they’re worth the extra $. Was thinking of giving one a shot.
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that's basically seikos better lines. stuff Matt's talking about, and other higher end lines. they are good stuff....but not cheap. I prefer the high value lower cost stuff even with the tradeoff of lesser accuracy.

I got a friend who collects the better seiko stuff and I've never seen a bad one yet on his wrist or heard bad feedback from him.
 
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mitchnola said:
I’ve had this seiko for about a month now and it’s been dead on at +5s a day. It’s the 4r36. Still curious how it will perform in the summer at different temperatures. Haven’t had any luck with the 2824 and another thing I’m not a fan of is that I have the same movement in both the Hamilton($500) and Oris ($1300). Seems like most swiss automatics in a certain price range all have 2824 or sellita 200. Same mechanics different aesthetics it seems. Admittedly I haven’t read up on watches in quite sometime so correct me if I’m wrong.
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I've noticed on seikos.....wearing they keep better time than wearing, and then letting sit for a day. the accuracy goes haywire off the wrist. also on watch winders I've noticed wacky time keeping. this is my experiences with seikos since the early 90s when i started my collecting.
 
Fair statement, But the 8L35/55 and spring drive is available in some of the higher end prospex. But understood. If youre dead set on accuracy get a quartz/solar/etc.

Most decent watch makers can regulate an ETA movement relatively easily and bring it withing COSC for a small fee.

I miss my GS somedays...

HgldA1K.jpg

B7Ziih3.jpg

awpTjJ3.jpg


And yes, I like Bunds... a lot.
 
badmatt said:
Fair statement, But the 8L35/55 and spring drive is available in some of the higher end prospex. But understood. If youre dead set on accuracy get a quartz/solar/etc.

Most decent watch makers can regulate an ETA movement relatively easily and bring it withing COSC for a small fee.

I miss my GS somedays...

HgldA1K.jpg

B7Ziih3.jpg

awpTjJ3.jpg


And yes, I like Bunds... a lot.
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nice ones Matt.

we're more talking do standard seikos keep good time compared to swiss eta 2824 and sellita sw200. im of the opinions no..from my experiences with many of them.....both eta/sellita and seikos 7s26/4r35 and the like movements..

if we are talking best time keeping its citizens..."the citizen" and grand seiko quartz movements without a doubt.
 
DocJekl said:
I have two Oris that are spot on with timekeeping. I have a Hamilton chronograph that is similarly accurate, but Hamilton uses crappy lume in all the watches Ive bought in the past (5-6 of them). My one Luminox automatic is also quite accurate. None of those above needed regulating, and they're on the lower end of my Swiss Made watches. My Victorinox Dive Master 500 came very well regulated too.

But I have about 10 Seiko automatics and almost all of them needed to be regulated for accurate timekeeping, if +/- 20 to 30 seconds wasn't okay with me; and two of them had the 4R35 movement fail within 6 months (turtles) and got replacement movements under warranty. I have 3 NTH (Janis Trading Co micro brand) watches, with Seiko NH35 movements, that were all regulated well before they shipped out to me. So, sometimes it's just hit or miss.
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Interesting, maybe I got lucky with this one.

I bought both the Hamilton and Oris off the grey market, the well known one. I was wondering if maybe both had been sitting for potentiallly years and came to me already needing to be serviced. Or, I’ve just been unlucky.

And just to clarify, there’s plenty of swiss made watches I’d love to buy especially Hamiltons but just have had bad experiences as of late.

My luminoxes were both great and then started acting up after 5 yrs or so. They’re both currently 6 n 7 years old and the tritium has dulled substantially. Don’t see it lasting 20yrs.

After reading this maybe I just need to bring the Hamilton and Oris somewhere to be regulated. Is that done at jewery stores or a watchmaker in particular?
 
jbmonkey said:
I've noticed on seikos.....wearing they keep better time than wearing, and then letting sit for a day. the accuracy goes haywire off the wrist. also on watch winders I've noticed wacky time keeping. this is my experiences with seikos since the early 90s when i started my collecting.
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This may explain the time keeping as I haven’t taken it off since I got it.
 
mitchnola said:
Interesting, maybe I got lucky with this one.

I bought both the Hamilton and Oris off the grey market, the well known one. I was wondering if maybe both had been sitting for potentiallly years and came to me already needing to be serviced. Or, I’ve just been unlucky.

And just to clarify, there’s plenty of swiss made watches I’d love to buy especially Hamiltons but just have had bad experiences as of late.

My luminoxes were both great and then started acting up after 5 yrs or so. They’re both currently 6 n 7 years old and the tritium has dulled substantially. Don’t see it lasting 20yrs.

After reading this maybe I just need to bring the Hamilton and Oris somewhere to be regulated. Is that done at jewery stores or a watchmaker in particular?
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Usually a watchmaker is best - I've met some jewelers who didn't have a clue what they were doing.

My guy will usually check the watch on a timegrapher in a few positions (especially face up, crown up, crown down, and 6 down, because he knows those are my minimum requirements if he has time, I don't need all 6 positions). Then he'll try to get it so that they all equal out as close to zero between them on the timegrapher. If there are no beat errors and amplitude is good, he puts it on a special winder that hits all positions for 24 hours, and checks it.

He wears it around the shop for a day if I ask him, as the watch will be warmer on the wrist, but usually I don't bother. So, he doesn't have to spend much time with the watch after the first set of adjustments. I have been going to him for a couple of decades, so he does give me a discount on a lot of stuff. He replaced a case-tube and crown for me for $75 last year. And he did a Yobokies Seiko Tudor BB mod dial, bezel, and hands for me once for about that much as well.
 
DocJekl said:
Usually a watchmaker is best - I've met some jewelers who didn't have a clue what they were doing.

My guy will usually check the watch on a timegrapher in a few positions (especially face up, crown up, crown down, and 6 down, because he knows those are my minimum requirements if he has time, I don't need all 6 positions). Then he'll try to get it so that they all equal out as close to zero between them on the timegrapher. If there are no beat errors and amplitude is good, he puts it on a special winder that hits all positions for 24 hours, and checks it.

He wears it around the shop for a day if I ask him, as the watch will be warmer on the wrist, but usually I don't bother. So, he doesn't have to spend much time with the watch after the first set of adjustments. I have been going to him for a couple of decades, so he does give me a discount on a lot of stuff. He replaced a case-tube and crown for me for $75 last year. And he did a Yobokies Seiko Tudor BB mod dial, bezel, and hands for me once for about that much as well.
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Nice, thanks for all of the info! I’ve got a customer that works at one of the more well known jewelers in town. I’ll check with him tomorrow to see if his watch guy is capable. I’d love to have my Hamilton and Oris running better. I’d certainly wear them more often.
 
jbmonkey said:
I've noticed on seikos.....wearing they keep better time than wearing, and then letting sit for a day. the accuracy goes haywire off the wrist. also on watch winders I've noticed wacky time keeping. this is my experiences with seikos since the early 90s when i started my collecting.
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That's why my watchmaker will sometimes ask if I want him to wear the watch around the shop for a day, if the regulation has been particularly difficult. It was usually only if I brought it back after taking it home. I gave him carte blanche to wear any of them in the future if it helps.
 
mitchnola said:
Nice, thanks for all of the info! I’ve got a customer that works at one of the more well known jewelers in town. I’ll check with him tomorrow to see if his watch guy is capable. I’d love to have my Hamilton and Oris running better. I’d certainly wear them more often.
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Some jeweler's do have a good watch guy there, so it doesn't hurt to ask. The Ben Bridge Jewelry in Park Meadow Mall Denver has Ryan who is quite good. But he is purely a watchmaker, not a jeweler, working in the back. But my local Jared Jewelers (and Kay, etc) in Colo Springs has to send all watches out.
 
Thanks, I would think I should be able to find someone locally. I’ll check it out tomorrow. I would be pumped if someone could get em working better without having to pay hundreds for a full servicing.
 
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