1. BladeForums has ZERO TOLERANCE for extremism or calls of violence. We request your assistance dealing with this as we do not want to see the site shut down due to violent threats. Please see this thread here in Tech Support: https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-has-a-zero-tolerance-policy-towards-threats-of-violence-extremism-be-warned.1769537/

Recommendation? Knife sharpening kits for newbie suggestions.

Discussion in 'Maintenance, Tinkering & Embellishment' started by BladeWolf23, Feb 21, 2021 at 11:38 PM.

  1. BladeWolf23


    If you would like to learn more about my "conditions" and situation on my knife journey, I just posted an introduction post here, New Member hoping to learn. | BladeForums.com. I am about to receive a Victorinox Fibrox 8 inch chefs knife has my first personal chefs knife and have a "wartech" cheap chinesium edc knife that I carry. I would like to invest in a sharpening system. I would prefer a classic stone based system as that would be what my dad would use even though he is not a knife fanatic. I also know those automated drag through sharpeners are set at a specific angle and do not necessarily give you full control on the results. I have done some interenet research and this is what I have read in summary so hopefully one of you can set me straight. From one long lost forum website and thread "A concrete block used at a good angle and a piece of wood to clean the edge up can sharpen a knife, what you use is not always the important part." but I know how far you take it can mean how long it last. Along with "You have to remember the lower the grit, the more metal you will be taking off at a time." From my reading, and based on the last quote, in terms of wet stones it seems to be and correct me if I am wrong but a 1000 grit is the best go to grit for cleaning up an edge that is used and bring a sharpness back to it. If you have a crap knife that will be abused, you could stop at the 1000 but for edge retention and to have a cleaner edge, most decent knives you want to go up to at least a 3000 grit stone and any higher then that is just to give a mirrored look, minus your strops and honers to clean up the edge and any burrs that have been left.

    On to what sharpeners I have looked at, I always see the Lansky shaprening system come up and I see it is oil stone based but I also see the fifty dollar kit starts at a 70 grit and ends at a 1000 grit. Would such a kit be really useful at least the lower grits? Unless you say go beat your knife edge up against a brick wall 20 times or so? The sharpeners I have considered are this one Work Sharp Benchtop Whetstone Knife Sharpener which has a 1000 and a 6000 grit wet stone which is decent size and I feel would be good for maintaining something such as a chefs knife? The downside to this, is the guides are only 15 and 17, and from my reading and asking my dad what angle he uses for the low amount of sharpening he does I am understanding a 17-20 degree angle is good for a chefs knife, with a 20 degree being more common default/factory grind on standard chef knives and a 17-15 degree grind being seen on Japanese and other foreign style knives? I also have read for something like my EDC I would benefit best from something in the 22-25 degree range to hold up to heavier use. The second option I found is Work Sharp Benchtop Benchstone Knife Sharpener which has lower grits but still seems to have a nice follow up in grits but no fine 6000 grit stone (if that is even needed truly) This allows for a 20 or 25 guided angle which I assume would allow me to sharpen my chefs knife to a 20 or my EDC to a 25. I am open to suggestions and some clarity. I know there is a lot of different ways to sharpen a knife these days but know there are some that give a better edge then others and different skill levels.
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 22, 2021 at 3:19 AM
  2. jbmonkey

    jbmonkey Platinum Member Platinum Member

    Jun 9, 2011
    welcome. saw your other thread but decided to just post here.

    lots of choices and setups. I myself prefer diamond benchstones and freehanding. due to high grits and low grits to do any type of work and can sharpen pretty much any steels, and you'll eventually learn how to hold angles anyways one day.

    I also like the sharpmaker. its got angles set but can be adjusted since your holding the knife and can adjust for different angles bevels and you'll run into those.

    I have lansky, dmt, wicked sharp and other guided systems and they have their place...in the end I tend to stick to diamond benchstones for reprofiling and sharpmaker for touch ups.

    then there is the world of stroping to play with also.
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2021 at 12:37 PM
  3. BladeWolf23


    I am no where near ready to get into stroping. But thanks for the shaorening suggestions
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2021 at 11:32 AM
    jbmonkey likes this.
  4. Old Biker

    Old Biker

    Sep 25, 2016
    One thing you need to understand about grits. There is no one universal standard for grit rating. It's possible for a 1000 grit stone of one brand to be equal to a 6000 grit stone of another brand. I don't know if that is the case with the stones you were asking about. I'm not familiar with either one. See this sticky thread for more information an grits.

    I reprofile and clean up abused edges with a 140 grit CKTG diamond stone. My 1200 grit edge pro water stone starts to give a little bit of mirror shine. I can improve that shine with a strop.

    MtnHawk1 likes this.
  5. c7m2p3


    Apr 20, 2018
    I would say stropping is almost a must have for burr removal. There are several people here that finish on fine stones to remove the burr and are very successful at it but I have found (especially on softer kitchen knife steel) that getting that burr off with stones is very time consuming and takes a lot of practice. A nice soft leather strop is cheap, and very effective after coming off your final stone to get that edge to where you want it to be. You can make your own for under 20$. Go to a craft store and get a cheap block of wood, some glue, and a piece of craft leather. Some stropping compound or better yet, some diamond paste and you are off to the races.

    In terms of stones, Diamond stones really are a "do it all" if there is even a chance in the future that you are going to get into higher vanadium steels but if you want to stick to some less expensive options for now you can look into some SIC stones that will be fairly cheap. The Manitcore and Artic fox from Baryonyx knife works can be had together in the 8inch benchstone version for under 50$. Those two combined with a good leather strop can probably handle 99% of your sharpening needs provided you arent after the super mirror finish.
    MtnHawk1 likes this.
  6. BladeWolf23



Share This Page