The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
I don't know the exact model, but it's a 25W Keyence.
I think I learned more about using my laser from this one post reply than I have from months of research on other social media/forums. Cheers! @Kracken82 Do you have examples of your laser work posted somewhere I could check it out?I do a lot of laser engraving and extremely complex designs sometimes running the laser for upto a hour each side. The laser actually shouldn't leave the steel hot to touch at all provided it is set up correctly hight, speed, power and focal strength it shouldn't even create any smoke or charring on the edges of the marking. Each hatch pass needed to be tuned- higher power slower speed one pass then alternate lower power faster speeds. You can't just run it at high power as once it's vapourised first layer and it forms that black carbon layer the if left at the same setting its just going to keep generating heat and not actually remove much lmaterial from the steel as the its just creating another layer of carbon. By the time you got to the visible depth on the steel you have shown where its broken the laser has actually affected the steel probably all completely through to its thickness like a perforated line invisible to the eye. If you were to surface grind that steel to the depth of 0.003 as you mentioned was the depth of the etch it will still be visible past that even if you continue to surface grind till it was no longer visible the line would show once you dipped it in some ferric chloride. Laser etching won't affect strength if done correctly also not sure what type of laser you are using but to mark a line like the images you posted should only take a fraction of a second even at a slow speed speed of 100mm/s it will be done faster than you can blink.
I think I learned more about using my laser from this one post reply than I have from months of research on other social media/forums. Cheers! @Kracken82 Do you have examples of your laser work posted somewhere I could check it out?
Awesome! Thanks!I know the feeling there is next to no information on really operating them apart from how to do basic markings even then you need to be able to understand Chinese.
I can't even guess how many knives and other projects I've screwed up at the last second trying to laser something from the computer freezing halfway through a job and I have not saved the size I was scaled at to completely setting items on fire and burning holes right through.
You can check out my ig page to see they types of laser work I've done- krakentacticaledc
Pic 1: bottom knife shows laser-engraved line used for testing purposes; this knife (in a different steel) survived the hammer test. Broken knives are 8670 that were tempered at 450F and 500F. Thickness of broken knives is 0.225".
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Pic 2: close-up of broken star, through text "1Ni". Text height is 0.09".
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I can add anything about the laser as I have not gotten mine yet. But to me that grain looks huge. You said that’s 8670 heat treated by peters? The grain should be fine enough that you can not see it with your naked eye. If you want you can send me a chunk of that and I will do a grain refine and heat treat on it free of charge and you can retest to see what the results are.