Let's talk straight razors.

Mikey's Deli

Mikey's Deli

Joined
Jan 27, 2014
Messages
183
I am looking to get into shaving with a straight razor. I have been researching some and I am hoping for some advice.
It would be nice to find that one "lifetime" razor right off the bat, yet as a knife enthusiast and owner of many sharp things, I know that's a pipe dream.
So is it Dovo, Boker, etc?
Thanks folks,
-mikey p.
 
the very best shavers that you are overlooking are vintage ones. the newer ones I personally don't like for comfort reasons.pipe dream? no its a big rabbit hole one in you just keep falling. I have been using straights since I was 14 and at 59 I have used many, own over 100 vintage but for three, a custom, a dovo, and a boker edelweiss the boker is the best of the new. as far a shave the main favorites are wm stenton( rare ) followed by wade and butcher, Fredrick Reynolds, joseph Elliot , greaves and son, then the germans, dbl duck, dorco, ja henkels, eicker and sone heartring, then the usa case, meyer and grosh, genco, simmons hardware, lakeside,torrey. these are but a few but my favorite vintage razors. start out with a round tip, 5/8 or 6/8 and go from there. I mostly use spike or barber notch razors now 8/8 up wedges. I started with hollows but the wedges did me in. a bit heavy and once the stroke is started its committed so you need experience with a wedge and spikes or square points will get an earlobe before you know it. you also must remember the razor is scapel sharp so no sudden sideways moves or your face will remember you. you will need a hanging strop and keep it free of paste, crox or any abrasive. I strop mine before shaving every time, 40 linen, 50 to 60 leather. it is not a knife and dosent sharpen nor strop as one. you can kill a good edge by shaving too steep an angle or stropping incorrectly. so welcome and enjoy the new found tools.i am on several other forums and I do hone razors should the need arise.
 
If you are looking at new current production razors you can also consider Revisor, Ralf Aust and Thiers Issard brands. Revisor is also a source for Vintage razors as well. For a first razor I would go with new current production from a reputable seller that supplies them shave ready in a 5/8-6/8 size with round tip. Get a plain Jane model as you pay extra for bigger sizes and fancy additions but the steel is the same as the plain Janers. I say new because if you have trouble with the razor the reputable retailer will help you out but with vintage off that big auction site you are on your own. It also take a bit to know what to watch out for with vintage razors.

Almost all my straight razors are vintage and I do love them but I have been burned a few times not knowing what to look for.

Don't forget the other start up costs too. You will need a strop, brush and soap for starters if you don't already have them. Appropriate hones to if you don not have suitable ones already.

Like most things in life you will have to go through a few different ones before you find the size, grind and style of blade you really like.

There are many wet shaving forums out there but I would join one that centers around straight razors and not DEs and SEs.

Bob
 
bobby, the main reason to shy from newer razors is when hone time comes and the spine is warped who do you contact for warranty? when it hits the stone it has no warranty. if the edge is warped same difference. I still say vintage, cracks chips and rust all show up when looked at, surely he has antique shops and flea mkt sellers around. if the homework is done he should have no problems. I haven't seen a warped blade on a vintage hollow as yet. I have seen a case of a rolled edge from stropping incorrectly. in fact if he wants a shave ready straight I know where some reputable people have them for sale and can send him to them. I weeded thru mine and have none for sale, all the ones I have are here for life. I still buy good ones from time to time. mikey pm me and I will send you where there are good vintage razors shave ready for sale. as for as sterilizing a good soak in barbicide will do the number.
 
Get something vintage in good condition is my advise. As you said it is hard to find the perfect one, too many choices, but also like with knives straight razors are addictive to collect.
IMHO 6/8 is the golden middle for size, half to full hollow is probably good starting point.
If you want to really get into straights try the razor forums, Straight Razor Place is dedicated solely to straight razor shaving, and the gear related to it (brushes, soaps, strops, honing etc).
Badger and Blade is more balanced and covers DE shaving and straight razor shaving.
 
If you want "the one" right off the bat, check out Butch Harners straight razors. "Butcherblock" here on BF.
 
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Can't speak for the vintages though I'm sure the points are valid.
I've had good luck with dovo, even through amazon. Get a plastic handle one for a little over 100. Good balance, weight of 1.4 oz. Some times the blade width is incorrectly labeled (6/8" instead of 5/8")
Out of the tube it should have a good factory edge you can strop with and adequate pivot tension for safety. Some pieces are better than others cosmetically.
Maybe buy one of those "starter kits" so you have most of the stuff you need to maintain it.
 
kn4wd said:
bobby, the main reason to shy from newer razors is when hone time comes and the spine is warped who do you contact for warranty? when it hits the stone it has no warranty. if the edge is warped same difference. I still say vintage, cracks chips and rust all show up when looked at, surely he has antique shops and flea mkt sellers around. if the homework is done he should have no problems. I haven't seen a warped blade on a vintage hollow as yet. I have seen a case of a rolled edge from stropping incorrectly. in fact if he wants a shave ready straight I know where some reputable people have them for sale and can send him to them. I weeded thru mine and have none for sale, all the ones I have are here for life. I still buy good ones from time to time. mikey pm me and I will send you where there are good vintage razors shave ready for sale. as for as sterilizing a good soak in barbicide will do the number.
Click to expand...

The point about warranty going out the window the first time you lay the hones to a new razor is a very valid point. OTH it is fairly easy to determine is a straight has geometry issues right out of the box without having to hone it. Laying the blade on a lapped flat surface will show you quick enough it it has a warp or twist. It should then be easy to return it for one with no faults.

I don't have a thing against vintage straights as 99% of mine are vintage and more than a few have warps or twists. I am talking about razors from that big auction site. You are a good bit safer buying vintage from the B&S on shave forums or a reputable dealer that sells them and the route I would go for a vintage as a first razor. In any event warps and twisted can still be honed but it can be a pita.

Bob
 
how many warped spine dovos or to thin spine dovos have you seen? I have honed 4 one thin spine which had a very high bevel, three were warpedand the bevel was wonky. the warranty was gone befofe the hone was needed. that is why I say wintage if you do the homework as to what to buy you get a nicer razor and as an added bonus with a plus you get to shave and have the razor a lot quicker. I wouldn't send anyone to the bay. as far as warped vintage I have a lot of sheffield wedges only one has any warpage, I have german and American as well only one in over 100. yes I knew what to look for and don't mind honing any of them. I did my research, learned to hone my old barber was my mentor, and he helped me pick some of my earlier razors. I don't have a single razor in the vintage line I would trade for your finest, newest , shinest razor. ever thought how many faces this has shaved in its life? you may be using a razor it may have been used by ben franklin or ole honest abe ? I have several pre civil war,there is nothing like using vintage razors. if he knew how to check the geometry on a new one why shouldn't he know how to check a vintage the same way? the resty is childsplay you can see cracks and breaks and rust.
 
I am a new member here but I am experienced in straight razors. I started with a Dovo and I got the 5/8s Pearlex razor. It is a handsome razor and is a nice shaver but I would have to say my vintage shavers are much better. It is a deep rabbit hole and a possible steep learning curve. I think patience and dexterity are very key to cutting that learning curve short. Honing a razor is different than a knife though and for many the honing aspect becomes very addictive as it is for me.

But a nice quality razor that is sold truly shave ready from a good vendor whether it be vintage or new and a good strop and soap and patience will make your face happy. It is truly the best and most enjoyable shave. My personal favorite shaver is my Genco. They are a great vintage American brand and can be had for cheap. I have only seen one Genco in bad shape as far as rust. As for soaps you can use you normal canned cream but if your gonna go out go all out. I am currently really enjoying Mitchells Wool Fat and a nice menthol after shave from superior 70. As for a strop you can get a good quality strop with out spending a 100 bucks or more. Illinois strop company make some good strops for about $50.
 
kn4wd said:
how many warped spine dovos or to thin spine dovos have you seen? I have honed 4 one thin spine which had a very high bevel, three were warpedand the bevel was wonky. the warranty was gone befofe the hone was needed. that is why I say wintage if you do the homework as to what to buy you get a nicer razor and as an added bonus with a plus you get to shave and have the razor a lot quicker. I wouldn't send anyone to the bay. as far as warped vintage I have a lot of sheffield wedges only one has any warpage, I have german and American as well only one in over 100. yes I knew what to look for and don't mind honing any of them. I did my research, learned to hone my old barber was my mentor, and he helped me pick some of my earlier razors. I don't have a single razor in the vintage line I would trade for your finest, newest , shinest razor. ever thought how many faces this has shaved in its life? you may be using a razor it may have been used by ben franklin or ole honest abe ? I have several pre civil war,there is nothing like using vintage razors. if he knew how to check the geometry on a new one why shouldn't he know how to check a vintage the same way? the resty is childsplay you can see cracks and breaks and rust.
Click to expand...

OK, maybe you misunderstood what I was saying previously about new razors and warranties. The day you receive your new production razor you should check it before even using it for warps and twists. That is fairly easy and straight forward to do. Miking the spine should tell you if it is too thin or fat for the blade size. As you haven't used it, it should be easily returnable under warranty.

Yes the same can be said about checking a vintage blade out too once it is in your hands but returning it may be a little more iffy depending where you bought it from is all. Yes, the bay is not a good place for a beginner to buy a razor. Yes, if you get a good vintage razor you do get more bang for your buck, no doubt in my mind. I am saying this from my own experience and having no mentors locally learned the hard way by trial and error. Again your experience with vintage razors as far as warps and twists goes has been different than mine. I have had Sheffies with bent tangs that would not close dead center in new scales. Just saying you can have problems with vintage or new. I would buy either depending only on what fit my budget.

Bob
 
I've been wondering about this same thing. Thank you guys for sharing some of your experience. I'm in my 20's and don't have any experience with straight razors. I bought a DE safety razor about a year ago, after hearing my father mention a few times how much better they were than the new disposables. Except on vacation, I haven't bought myself a disposable razor since. Now I'm getting more interested in the straight razors.

kn4wd said:
you can kill a good edge by shaving too steep an angle or stropping incorrectly. so welcome and enjoy the new found tools.i am on several other forums and I do hone razors should the need arise.
Click to expand...
When you say 'too steep' are you talking about holding it too close to perpendicular to your skin "L" like a scraping motion, instead of closer to parallel "V"?

I was wondering why some had the round end and some had a square edge. From what you said that is the hollow and wedge. I thought the corner on those wedges looked like they would definitely get your attention if you weren't careful. :eek:

kn4wd said:
in fact if he wants a shave ready straight I know where some reputable people have them for sale and can send him to them.
Click to expand...
Do you have the same username on other forums?
 
yes that would be correct to steep on the stroke either shin or strop, kn4wd on b and b and srp as well as here and the shave den as well. stropping is kind of an art form start and stay slow till the technique is advanced enough to warrant speed I can do 100 licks linen 100 leather in under a minute but I have been with straights my entire shaving career bout 45 yrs now. my old barber was my mentor, in his 90's now and we still visit and chat. he has quite a collection of straights and hones, several vintage strops willed to me. I think the world of that man and will dearly miss him when his time comes. he is the only person in the world I woul let put a razor against my face, and I would trust him to shave me today. I used to take my straights there and hone and strop them in his shop.he always said I did him a favor because the customers got a kick out of a 14 yr old using a strop. later as my skill picked up I honed and stropped his razors. he has the finest collection of eschers I have ever saw.20 is not too young to start it is a totally different shave when you learn the basics. do you need a straight, I can see if anyone has anything on the forums. there are about 5 I know of that wouldn't stretch the truth or go out of their way to tell you anything you needed to know about a razor they had for sale
 
Favorite straight razors will be a very personal thing. Some of the "modern" razors that I have had good luck with include Dovo and Boker. However, I have many (14 as of right now) vintage razors that are all just as good if not better! They can also be found much cheaper, often under $50 in good condition. If you want to take the time to polish them up and put on new handles then you can get them for $10-15!!
My personal favorite vintage straight razor is a J. A. Henckels that I bought off the Bay for $25 and polished up. Just so you are warned.....straight razor shaving is as addictive as knife collecting and can be just as expensive!!
Good luck in your search and have fun.
 
well said ernie, plus the fact of history involved. ever wonder if some famous person shaved or was shaved by the blade you are using? I have a stenton which due to the fact of the dates it would have been made puts it around 30 yrs before the civil war. if I remember right stenton folded after 6 production yrs. he was an importer in ny and the razors were Sheffield actual mfg unknown but its a heavy chopper full 10/8 and shaves like a demon. I wonder each time I use it where its been and how many used it before me.
 
I have often wondered the same thing! It is fun to think about how much has changed since that razor was first made, yet it still works as well as the day it left the shop
 
Check out Portland Razor Co. They have REALLY nice stuff, and their non-customs are very reasonably priced. I just ordered two 6/8 razors from there (one is a gift) after seeing a couple in person locally.
 
I went with the RazorEmporium.com and ended up with a M. Jung 1930s vintage. I didn't heed the round/hollow end warning, however, and am now suffering through the very steep learning curve that is straight razor shaving.
I love it. I bought a badger brush and got some Col. Conk soap. I already own a few strops from my knife sharpening. They are not as easy to use as a hanging strop, but they keep my shaver nice and sharp.
Thanks everyone for your help. I'll most probably need some more...soon.
:-P
 
Just curious - I've got an Electric Cutlery Co. straight that I picked up dirt cheap, and they're not my forte. It's in decent shape. Any info on them?
 
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