Loctite 330 problems

[mknife]

Surface preparation is as important, if not more important, than the adhesive. Make sure you're following the manufacturer's instructions. If you don't know them, call the manufacturer. Don't trust clowns like me on an internets forum -trust the guys that engineered the adhesive!

I'm agree with Matthew.

the preparation of the surfaces to be bonded is very important. You may have used acetone and not waiting long enough to its complete evaporation. the preparation of the surfaces to be bonded is very important. You may have used acetone and not waiting long enough to its complete evaporation. Or even find that it is preferable to clean the surfaces with another solvent.

 

[Drew Riley]

I agree with the consensus so far, but I'll add a couple thing: Try the adhesive and activator on two pieces of something that won't absorb one or the other (steel, aluminum, ceramic, or whatever), and see what kind of bond you get. This may help troubleshoot any problem you have if the joint succeeds or fails. Prep the surface the same as you would the g10 or micarta.

As for clamping, as already mentioned, a couple of spring clamps should be find, but if your worried about flex/surface contact, just use a clamping caul i.e. rigid backer on the flexible liner side to help distribute pressure.

The last thing I'll mention, is that I normally just use a regular superglue to attach g10 liners to micarta and/or g10 scales, and then regular 2 part epoxy on the tang to liner side. I rely on pins, screws or rivets to ultimately hold everything together. The superglue is just to keep things halfway in place while working the pieces, and the epoxy is more/less just a moisture barrier, though I do follow standard surface prep and clamping protocols. YMMV.

I am curious to know how you make out with the 330.

 

[12345678910]

Surface preparation is as important, if not more important, than the adhesive. Make sure you're following the manufacturer's instructions. If you don't know them, call the manufacturer. Don't trust clowns like me on an internet forum -trust the guys that engineered the adhesive!

Yes

Tech service is the most valuable thing about a good domestic company
http://www.stiweb.com/downloadDataSheets/CMCP211tds.pdf


http://na.henkel-adhesives.com/prod...5601&msdsLanguage=EN_US&selectedTab=technical
Full Cure Temperature (°C) 25
Full Cure Temperature (°F) 77

Full Cure Time 24 hr.

I'd also try some tests to rough the surfaces with 600 grit or something.
All the test data uses blasted clean material

I'd apply spring clamps and leave them on for 24 hours or more-up to 3 days
They prevent over squeeze out

If the material has any bow or spring in it, you may be squeezing out the glue, then having the layers separate once you take it from the vise

Directions
for
use:
1.
For
best
performance
bond
surfaces
should
be
clean
and
free
from
grease
.
2.
To
ensure
a fast
and
reliable
cure,
Activator
7387™
or
7386™
should
be
applied
to one
of the
bond
surfaces
and
the
adhesive
to
the
other
surface.
Parts
should
be
assembled
within
15
minutes
.
3.
The
recommended
bondline
gap
is 0.1
mm.
Where
bond
gaps
are
large
(up
to
a maximum
of
0.5
mm),
or
faster
cure
speed
is required,
Activator
7387™
or
7386™
should
be
applied
to
both
surfaces.
Parts
should
be
assembled
immediately
(within
1 minute)
.
4.
Excess
adhesive
can
be
wiped
away
with organic
solvent
.
5.
Bond should be held clamped until adhesive has fixtured .

6.
Product should
be
allowed
to
develop
full
strength
before
subjecting
to
any
service
loads
(typically
24
to
72
hours
after
assembly,
depending
on
bond
gap,
materials
and
ambient
conditions)
.

Ask Tech service, if it was frozen in shipping; does that mean it's NFG ?

Optimal Storage: 8 °C to 21°C. Storage below 8 °C or greater than 28 °C can adversely affect product properties

The tech info lists this as good on plastics, but Micartia and G10 are Phenolics, ask Tech service if this is good for those materials or what is ?