Looking for advice in carving faces

weo

Joined
Sep 21, 2014
Messages
2,821
Hello all. I hope everyone is still staying safe and healthy.

This isn't necessarily sheath related, but may be applicable in the future. Also, I'm going to ask that the Moderators immediately delete any comments about anyone's opinions on the subject matter.

Having said that, after seeing my carving of Bear, my sister asked me if I could do a picture for her to put in her window to show her support for the black lives matter and police shootings protests. We came up with the idea of some sort of collage of victims of police shootings. So I did a few sketches and tried one on a piece of scrap. This face is about 2 1/2" tall.
20200623_072719.jpg
My main question for the masters is would you use a round knife cut in any of the face details? Or just the outline to help separate it from the background? You can probably see where I cut in the eyes, lips, forehead, nose and ear. Because these lines are visible, I'm thinking that I could just use a thin modelling tool instead.

Also, any tips on doing pupils?
And should I make this 2-toned, using only black and brown/tan dyes or keep is monotone, with varying shades of brown?
Any other suggestions?

Thank you.
 
I don't know about carving faces, but, when you paint or draw something, you have to paint/draw what you see.
Not what it "is".

This gentleman is a master at painting what he sees and not what it is.
In the later stages of the video he fixes the woman's eyes and glasses.
But he never really paints all of the glasses, just enough for them to 'be there'.

You have picked one of the hardest subjects and are working in one of the most difficult mediums :)

I believe the key is to simplify :)

Hope that helps.
 
Thanks for sharing the video. I really like the comment how a good painting starts with what you had for dinner the night before.
You have picked one of the hardest subjects and are working in one of the most difficult mediums
Welcome to my world. :rolleyes: (Although IMO, painting is much more difficult.)
I believe the key is to simplify
And I believe you are right.
As I was working on the above face, I was wondering how I was going to create the shading around facial features like the temples, cheeks, nose, etc. that are indicated by lines in the drawings. I was worried that cutting the lines in wouldn't look good, and as I was contouring the eyes and nose with the spoon, I noticed it just happened, and so one doesn't need to transfer said shading/contour lines from the sketches.
 
Last edited:
Weo,
There is book by Al Stohlman titled Figure Carving Finesse that has the most comprehensive discussion and demonstration of carving and completing figures I know about. I find it unbelievably helpful and have learned a great deal from using it.
As an input, when I do figures I only cut the borders and a few critical areas such as eyes, mouth, limb separations and heavy hair lines. All the rest is done with light beveling and modeling spoons. The elk I did many years ago shows this pretty well.
Randy
ySFkuf9.jpg
[/url][/IMG]
 
Thanks for the suggestion, Randy! That looks like a great resource.
For those who are interested, there are a few places on the 'net where you can download free pdf files of this and other titles by the Stohlmans. Just do a search for the title and add "pdf" to the search. I've now got a decent leather working library.
Thanks again for pointing out this title, Randy.
 
weo, a definite step up!
When I say leather is more difficult, it's because you can't paint over cuts and impressions. Not too many chances for revisions :)

Robber, nice work!

Robber makes a good point about fewer hard lines as well.
Then again, it's all about what your final vision is.
Maybe try one without using the knife at all? Or just the outside, to break it out of the background...
Could be a good learning exercise.
The more you do the better they get.
 
Back
Top