Looking For Sheep Horn

D

DaQo'tah Forge

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Hi this is DaQo'tah

Im a very new bladesmith and Im learning how to make a Ed Fowler "Pronghorn" type working knife out of 52100 steel.

My blade work is coming along fine, but locating the handle material has become very frustrating.

Does anyone know where I could place an order for some sheep horn?

I believe Mr Fowler uses Ramboulet sheep horn, but right now I would settle for anything!

I would also settle for Mooose antler as well, for Im told that it makes a beautiful handle .

I also have more questions that perhaps someone reading this might be able to answer - On page 11 of my new TEXAS KNIFEMAKER'S SUPPLY catalog, there is an ad for Water Buffalo Horn. Will this type of horn make a good "Pronghorn" type handle?

Does Water Buffalo horn have a solid core that will alow me to drill out a slot for my hidden tang?

can you rasp/file/and sand this type of horn down to match the lines of the Brass guard?
 
I use a lot of water buffalo horn, but remember horn isn't hard like antler, antler is a makeup of calicum and horn is more a growth from hair. I stabilize all my handle materials except for the real oily woods like cocobolo, etc. This will help keep horn from expanding and contracting as much, do to weather and humidity conditions. The horn chunks are solid and would most likely be the best for what your wanting to do, they have more mass so you can grind and shape more to the desired shape your looking for. Stabilized buffalo horn, (horn soaked in minn wax wood hardenerfor several days) sands and buffs with green chrome compound to a beautiful finish. I really like it.
Here's a pic of a hunter done with all buffalo horn.

Good luck and if I can be of anymore help just ask away. ;)

Bill
 
I second Bill's comments about buffalo horn. I've never tried stabilizing though so will give that a try. Thanks Bill. Do you have a solution for eliminating the smell while working horn? :D

Texas Knifemaker's Supply has quite a few different horns, many of which I've used. The scales of ox horn I've gotten became almost translucent when polished, very pretty - but if you ever use it be sure that the surface you're applying it on looks nice too because it can show through a bit. (Scales won't apply to your Fowler project obviously! I just like em.) I'm looking forward to seeing your knife.

Speaking of this, has anyone used the Blesbok (if I spelled it right) horn TKS sells? I'm curious how much of the horn is useable, either for scales or hidden tang, and how much has a solid center.

Dave
 
Dave, the only solution for the smell I have is, a Big Box fan. The Blesbok I got from them was good for 1 hidden tang hunter, cool looking stuff though.

Bill
 
A good vapor canister respirator will keep the smell down, at least while you are wearing it. It will also keep you from getting lung problems from the stuff. :eek:
 
Hi this is DaQo'tah

Thanks everyone for the wonderfull advice!

Mr. Buxton - I loved the look of your knife, I like the look of darker horn handles.

Now, for a few more questions for anyone ...

If I were to order from TEXAS KNIFEMAKERS SUPPLY, a whole Water Buffalo horn what type of epoxy would you suggest?

As I mentioned before, Im trying to learn how to make my own version of a Fowler "Pronghorn" and Mr Fowler does not use a Endcap nor a brass pommel but just drills a hole in the sheep horn, fills the hole with Bob Brunnell's Acraglass epoxy. Then he just slides the tang into the hole and lets it all set hard.

Will I be able to also work with my Buffalo Horn in a like manner?
 
Yes, you can do it that way also, if I'm making a knife with no threaded pommel or butt cap at all, I will drill a few holes through the tang and using a file cut a few notches in the top and bottom of the tang so the epoxy will have some place to fill and hold tight to. I use devcon 2 ton epoxy and on some knives that I wasn't happy with when completed had to use a hammer and chisel to split the handle material to get it off. I know some say to heat with a torch and it will cause the epoxy to turn loose but I always just split them and start over. Hope this helps. ;)

Bill
 
"I will drill a few holes through the tang and using a file cut a few notches in the top and bottom of the tang so the epoxy will have some place to fill and hold tight to."

Hi this is DaQo'tah

yes! now this is the kind of new ideas and advice I have been looking for!

I am thinking about getting the Water buffalo horn for use as my handle.
Water buffalo seems to be easyer for me to get right now, and its not too much money.

I wish I could use sheep horn, Im still looking to try sheep horn when I find some , but for now, "a bird in the hand..."

I have been to the different listed Websites, for both the sheep horn and the moose, but so far they seem to be out of supply.
 
Hi DaQo'tah... you might try two part marine epoxy to secure your tang. I use it on a lot of my knives as it is much less expensive than
devcon 2 ton and has a much better shelf life before use.
I use it on both slab handle and hidden tangs. It will take longer to cure, usually overnight depending on the amount used but I have never had a problem nor have the makers who put me on to it.
I used it to secure a large British Comando blade that I adapted from a full tang to a hidden tang and set it into a moose crown. The soldier who wanted this conversion has been very pleased.
Moose season is just about to get under way up here in the great white north so I may be able to help you if you are not in a hurry to get this project done. I usually get several "Sheds" from my hunter friends. The delay would be until 01 January as my permit to deal in cast antlers has expired and due to the way The Dept. of Logs/Frogs & Bogs issues them (they expire 31 Dec each year), I am not re-newing until Jan. 03.in order to get more bang for my buck.

Jim Ziegler
 
Hi DaQo'tah-
If you're interested in some moose I have a few pieces and can cut you out a couple of slabs depending on size. What I've got is real dense and finishes up beautifully. Let me know.
wrtc@wrtcleather.com

I use glass bedding compound a lot - anybody else? It sets up quickly (although full strength after 24 hrs)and his very strong. You can get it for Brownells on line or usually any gun store. I do like B. Buxton does too and add some extra holes.

Chuck
 
Hi! This is DaQo'tah.

Kraut - Your offer is very intriguing. Tell your hunter friends to keep an eye out for any moose antler sheds. I myself have told all my hunting buddies that I work with to be on the lookout.

Finding a moose antler shed is kind of a random chance event, but hopefully someone we know will stumble upon one or two. Since I live in what is considered good moose country, I wanted to make knives out of what would be considered a "local material". I had no idea that common moose antler would be so hard for me to find. January sounds about the time I will really be in need of moose antler.

Wild Rose (Chuck) - Mr. Ed Fowler wrote to me and also suggested that I use Bob Brunnell's acra-glass to glue the handle onto the tang.

However, I've been to Bob Brunnell's website a few times and it has proven to be very frustrating. When I look at the web page where they are trying to sell this product, I don't understand what it is I'm actually buying. Is acra-glass composed of several different packages that are combined? Is acra-glass a liquid or a gel? I just don't understand. I wanted to do what Mr. Fowler has suggested, but I just don't understand how to use this product. It doesn't seem to be like two-ton epoxy where you just squirt the stuff with a double-barreled syringe and stir.

I would still love to get ahold of some ramboulet sheep horn. I'm actually thinking of traveling to a local sales barn and making a few inquiries. But in the meantime, the Texas Knifemakers Supply catalog has buffalo horn on hand, so I believe this afternoon I'm going to place an order.
 
It's a two part epoxy(?) that you mix in a little cup and then shovel it in. The stuff makes it's own heat (catalytic reaction) - enough heat that you'll get burned if you're not careful. It's pretty simple actually.

Chuck
 
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