Machete for the wilderness?

Axes and machetes are for different things in my book. But as far as non-axe choppers go...machete smokes them. But, alot of machetes don't come sharp; easy fix though.
 
Let's say the Machete can handle the beating. It takes a lot of calories to beat on that blade. Compare that with 3 whacks with a hatchet, or less with an axe. I know we don't need to split lots of wood for a survival fire, so this discussion is moot in this regard.
 
As someone said, this is an age old debate. It comes down to personal preference. I prefer my husky hatchet as my dedicated chopper for packing. I like having the hammer side, and it processes wood very well. Really hard to hammer with a machete. I will also have a couple knives with me.
 
It would be worth-while to search youtube for videos describing the different ways machetes can be sharpened. Basically it is smart to scandi-grind the edge just in front of the handle for 4" or so. From there to the point a convex grind is best for chopping. Then the spine nearest the handle gets a sharp right-angle treatment for firesteel sparking. The rest of the spine to the tip gets rounded/smoothed for using as a draw-knife.

Also, there is a great Ray Mears video showing a safer way to split wood. Instead of propping up a small log and aiming for the 3" dia target, you lay it down horizontally with your edge on top (machete/hatchet/whatever) and smash that combo into something hard. It accomplishes the same thing with much better accuracy and no wild swinging/dangerous misses.
 
Also, there is a great Ray Mears video showing a safer way to split wood. Instead of propping up a small log and aiming for the 3" dia target, you lay it down horizontally with your edge on top (machete/hatchet/whatever) and smash that combo into something hard. It accomplishes the same thing with much better accuracy and no wild swinging/dangerous misses.

This technique is for small logs. You still have to swing on the bigger ones. I don't think this will work with a machete because the weight vs blade length ratio is too low. Maybe, just maybe, it can work with a kukri style blade. A hatchet has most of its weight concentrated on 3" of edge. A spike will penetrate even better, but you lose the ability to twist the wood apart.
 
I experienced this batoning my 12" CS barong machete through a large chunk of softwood that was somewhat gnarly. The machete does fine at first, as you get deeper, it starts to bend due to its thin blade (mine is 3mm thick). The blade gets lodged in there pretty well, and the wood starts to win. I could have batonned the snot out of the blade, but luckily I had a wedge shaped piece of wood that I used to finish the split. If it had been hardwood, I shudder to think what would have happened to my machete.

I think for machete, 3-4" is the max for splitting, which is fine for survival purposes. Beyond that the flexibility of the blade puts it at a disadvantage. Just my opinion.

Funny you should mention that--I used a 18" CS barong machete to baton through a 12"-thick 14'-long tree trunk just to see if I could. It took me a while, but I did it. :D That being said recommend, when using a machete to split thicker wood, to spend a couple of minutes using the machete to make a few wooden wedges and a maul, preferably from a piece of gnarly wood. Doesn't take long (about 15 minutes) and then you have your hammer and a few wedges for splitting some serious wood! Just start the split with the machete, pop a wedge in it, and wail on it with the maul from there.

:)
 
My Woods bumming around Set up ,makes alot of fire wood quickly
Lite Machete,ESEE3 and a SAK "Rucksack" & LM Wave
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for me it depends on the environment, if your in the bush with heaps of springy under growth I take a machete or a golok, if its mature woods with minimal under growth I take a hatchet. if its cold and fire/ shelter now is the priority a hatchet is my best friend, in warmer climates especially the jungle a machete is by far the best option.
 
Honestly I see little point in a hatchet beyond splitting kindling for the wood stove at home. If I'm going to carry an axe-like tool around I'm going for something with a full haft on it. The increase in weight is negligible, and if I'm going to be carrying an axe it'll be because I'll be using it a lot so space won't be an issue--it'll be in my hand. ;)
 
A lot of the trail clearing I do in the spring is new growth, so a Machete or Thin and light Khukri work really well for this. Normally I have a HI 20" Sirupati style Khukri or 14" Bolo machete by Tramontina along with my knives. Will be picking up a Council Tools Hudson Bay Axe to pair with my brush blade and possibly a 30" Bow saw. Those three cover anything I need.

If I could only have 2 large edged tools they would be a saw and a Machete or Khukri. Thats personal Preference. The Khukri/Machete will cut brush, chop down trees, work as a draw knife and slice up water mellons or skin animals. Sure I can do a lot with a hatchet or Axe, but I'm more comfortable with the other tools so thats what I use.

For me, it's not "Which is better" It's Which is better for me. Find what works for you and stick with it. The more you use the tool, the better you get with it. Khukri's are second nature to me and Machetes are starting to become that way too.
 
Honestly I see little point in a hatchet beyond splitting kindling for the wood stove at home. If I'm going to carry an axe-like tool around I'm going for something with a full haft on it. The increase in weight is negligible, and if I'm going to be carrying an axe it'll be because I'll be using it a lot so space won't be an issue--it'll be in my hand. ;)

That is an opinion. IMO A hatchet in a skilled hand can accomplish many tasks a machete just won't, and vs versa. To say they are only good for kindling in home is kind of funny. To me that says you don't have as much experience with a hatchet as you do a machete. So you prefer the later. Let's get southerncross in on this one.
 
That is an opinion. IMO A hatchet in a skilled hand can accomplish many tasks a machete just won't, and vs versa. To say they are only good for kindling in home is kind of funny. To me that says you don't have as much experience with a hatchet as you do a machete. So you prefer the later. Let's get southerncross in on this one.

I wasn't saying they can't be used for lots of stuff. What I was saying was that if I was going to carry a hatchet head around then I'd have a full-length handle on it. The extra handle length adds minimal weight and adds a LOT of chopping power. And yes I do have a goodndeal of experience with them. :)
 
Just carry both, you are on bladeforums we won't bat an eye :)
 
I got ya. Misunderstood ya. To me my hatchet is an ulu knife that chops like a beast. I have found that if I want over a 12" handle, than it's best to go to a 2lb head. I have the Wetterling 20" large hunter, with the 1.5lb bit, and it barely out chops my Husky wilderness hatchet, if at all. My Husqvarna forest axe with the 2lb head and 26" handle is a freak at the chips it'll throw. It's an extra 2lbs. The handle of the axe is the same weight as the entire hatchet.
Here is a pic of the wilderness hatchet, the large hunter, and my little cleaver I found at an estate sale. That's what I take when serious destruction is necessary. Kidding
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Big logs are no problem for a hatchet.
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Turn log once hatchet is buried
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Repeat and pow.
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BK9 on top of split log.
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split halves the same way.
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This is a fatwood log. The hatchet head was ringing, when I struck the log, like I was hitting metal. This log would eat a machete.
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I was hitting so hard I broke the bit loose and needed to rehandle the hatchet after that.
Here is a chopping contest I did and the hatchet won. Same number of strikes. It was close though. all items are convexed.
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Here in Colorado the hardwoods are processed much more quickly with a hatchet or axe. I make goloks, and huge choppers all the time. Every tool has it's place and best function. Machetes are generally for jungles. I think the real debate should be between a golok, Kukri and Hatchet.
 
Here is some destrucion from last summer. Had to trim the trees. Done with my axe!
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Then the locals started coming around.
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Here is cutless machete that chipped out while harvesting some fatwood. I chopped into the log and hit a knot at an angle and pow. It sounded like a bullet richcet. I think do to the dramatic hollow grind.
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I got pissed and threw the cutless into a stump and broke the tip. hard day for that one.
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I ground out the chip and made a new tip. The blade is a convex scandi through the sweet area now.
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No issues since.
I have never chipped or warped a hatchet edge harvesting fatwood.
 
A friend of mine wanted to take down a cherry tree in his backyard. We had a wood saw, an ax and 2 cheap machetes. The machete was the most effective in taking down the entire tree and processing the wood once it was cut down in pieces.
 
Fellas, if you can't tell. I process a lot of wood for heating fuel. If I tried to use a machete to split all the wood I do for kindling and such it would be an exercise in futility. I'm sure if you only cut up one tree a year with a buddy, your opinion might differ. But in the end, it's whatever float your boat. Buy what you are most comfortable with.
 
It's gonna depend on type of wood involved, as well as personal chopping technique.
Hmmm, you'd almost think someone would make different sorts of cutting tools for just this reason...
 
When it comes to dedicated felling and splitting tasks an axe wins hands down--as it should, since that's what it's meant to do! As a general purpose woods tool I find the machete much more versatile though, and that's the reason I use them as my primary wilderness blade. A machete may not be the BEST at felling and splitting large trees, but it CAN do it. An axe is vastly superior in that area, but falls flat on its face when it comes to clearing light brush, dense grasses, or thorny plants. At least that's my take on it. :p
 
A machete is EASY to sharpen in the Field. You can still cut with relative ease with a dull one. Also they are super cheap so if you lose it you won't cry like you would if you lost a Busse.

Cutting bone dry hard wood is just as simple as cutting green wood. Grass and Prickle bushes, And everything in Between.
 
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