Machine recommendations for inlays, liners, etc.

ANovinc

ANovinc

Joined
Sep 21, 2016
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What's your thoughts on machines to consider purchasing for stitching inlays, liners, etc? I was thinking Cobra 18......but maybe there is something more suitable that I need to think about, but maybe haven't looked at? I currently have a Cobra 3 that I use for stitching up my sheaths.

(this has probably been covered in the forum before, sorry if this is redundant--if it is, point me to the thread to look at.)

Thanks much :)
 
My personal choice is and was the Cobra 18. It has been a great machine, and I have never had any trouble or problems with it.......but if I do, Steve and the guys provide perfect after the sale service and support. I use a Cobra 4 for my heavier stitching needs.

Paul
 
Sorry late to the party. Second on the Cobra 18, they rock and so does the service. Just got back from a show. Several very EXPERIENCED saddlemakers and bootmakers, our neighbors in Vendor Row, were examining Nichole's stitching on belts, purses and leggings and pronounced it "absolutely perfect". They also asked what machine she used and one saddlemaker said "I'm getting one". Some examples from the show:

CTKo453.jpg


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Thanks, Dave. That is some beautiful stitching. The 18 seems to be the way to go, it's the price that gives me the hiccups. (it'd be easier to justify if I was going to be doing some of the gorgeous work like Nicole is doing.) It's probably the best machine for making things like wallets, too, huh? (Something I want to learn).
 
Yep she makes a lot of wallets. I remember in another thread you'd said ya were interested in belts too. The 18 sews all our belts too:

oDWuyKR.jpg
 
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Jason, where have you been? These extended absences will not be tolerated!

Paul
 
Diomedes Industries said:
Amy,

I told you I have an 18 - You may check it out and try it out before you buy.

Jason
Click to expand...
That'd be great. Maybe you can show me how to make a wallet. I also need some help with my back stitch skills. I always seem to make a big a$$ knot. Maybe I can take a Friday off in August and head up that way.
 
Back stitches can be tough. Have you tried going one thread size down in your bobbin? That can help.

Jason
 
Diomedes Industries said:
Back stitches can be tough. Have you tried going one thread size down in your bobbin? That can help.

Jason
Click to expand...
I'm using a 277 top and 207 on the bobbin thread. I don't think I have my thread tensions dialed in either, which probably doesn't help matters. I really had the machine boogered up over the weekend, but have gotten it somewhat back to where it needs to be.
 
Amy, once you get the machine back to correct tensions.....LEAVE IT ALONE! A new person with a stitcher causes 99% of their problems by fiddling with the tensions.

Before you do anything with tensions, check the thread track from the spool, all the way to the needle. It is very common for the thread (top thread) to hang up on a screw, or be misplaced through a loop, one of many other things that in interfere with the smooth movement of the tread along its intended path. This causes very tight random tension and will result in pulling the bobbin thread up to lay on top. this is a fairly common occurrence that I experience frequently because I think I'm so good that I can rush through the threading process. Not true, take it slow and be sure everything is moving smoothly. It only takes a second to double check. (I should take my own advice more often.)

I use 207 top and bottom which Im think is just about right for the sheaths I produce. I do not notice any advantage of having different weight threads top and bottom, but there is nothing wrong with that if you prefer it.

Finally, your trouble with back stitches could be your left hand. Let the machine do the work and don't force any movement with your hand. Your hand is there to guide the material only....not advance it. Also I have noticed (and I don't know why) that if you fail to use the reverse lever for back stitch and just raise the presser foot and re-positon the piece for a back stitch, the result will be about 50/50 failure for a good looking stitch.

Good Luck!

Paul
 
sheathmaker said:
Amy, once you get the machine back to correct tensions.....LEAVE IT ALONE! A new person with a stitcher causes 99% of their problems by fiddling with the tensions.

Before you do anything with tensions, check the thread track from the spool, all the way to the needle. It is very common for the thread (top thread) to hang up on a screw, or be misplaced through a loop, one of many other things that in interfere with the smooth movement of the tread along its intended path. This causes very tight random tension and will result in pulling the bobbin thread up to lay on top. this is a fairly common occurrence that I experience frequently because I think I'm so good that I can rush through the threading process. Not true, take it slow and be sure everything is moving smoothly. It only takes a second to double check. (I should take my own advice more often.)

I use 207 top and bottom which Im think is just about right for the sheaths I produce. I do not notice any advantage of having different weight threads top and bottom, but there is nothing wrong with that if you prefer it.

Finally, your trouble with back stitches could be your left hand. Let the machine do the work and don't force any movement with your hand. Your hand is there to guide the material only....not advance it. Also I have noticed (and I don't know why) that if you fail to use the reverse lever for back stitch and just raise the presser foot and re-positon the piece for a back stitch, the result will be about 50/50 failure for a good looking stitch.

Good Luck!

Paul
Click to expand...

Thanks Paul--Very good advice. I must admit that this weekend, after messing with the tension, and still having problems that it was because my thread had indeed become wrapped around something it shouldn't have. Boy, was I mad at myself--it took a lot of work to try and get things back to where they were prior to my fiddling (and I still don't have it exactly where it needs to be).

I'll try the 207 top and bottom and see how that works out for me. I do use the reverse lever, but will pay more attention as to whether or not I'm putting additional pressure on the material with my hand without even realizing it.
 
I too use 207 top and bottom on all sheath work and even on larger tack items like martingales, rifle scabbards etc. I have rolls of 277 collecting dust. Haven't used it in years. No need.
 
Wow High Standard I'm sorry!! I was sewing along on a pair of shotgun chaps and remebered someone asked where we get our colored thread. Finished up came inside and found this thread again. We get it online from The Thread Exchange. Again I'm sorry for the delay.
 
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