Love em?
Hate em?
Seems there are mixed opinions on these little devices.
I have found them to work fine. They are not "magic" however.
They are made by the DOAN company, but sell as Coghlans, and other brands.
They vary in price up to $10 or $12, which is a total ripoff.
Check around, you can find them in the $5 range all the time.
http://www.campingsurvival.com/avsurfir.html
The magnesium firestarter was developed for US AirForce/Military survival kits, and is basically a block of magnesium, with a hole drilled for a chain, with a groove cut in the edge, and a small fero-rod glued to the block. They don't come with a "striker" (unless an aftermarket firm has included one), a knife (spine), hacksaw blade, or some kind of edged metal usually make the best items for striking against the fero-rod.
Upside:
Quick ignition
Burns even if wet
Burns very hot (4500°)
Downside:
-Burns very fast, poof, a few seconds.
-Takes a good bit of scraping to get enough mag shavings to ensure your tinder catches.
-the fero-rod is small/short, and being attached to the block, it can be cumbersome trying to hold it right next to your "target" striking area.
The magnesium shavings burn fast, like in a couple seconds they are done.
It is imperative you have your tinder ready, right there, to take the hot but short-lived flame created.
I have also found that if you can cut a couple slivvers, curls or micro-chunks, you get a longer initial burn, maybe enough to actually move your tinder directly over top of the fire.
The rule of thumb is that you need a circle of mag shavings same diameter as a penny. Some will say Quarter, dime, nickel...pick your favorite coin (hint: silver dollar is a overkill, but would make a nice little mushroom cloud).
SAFETY
-Magnesium burns white hot and gives off damaging UV light. Staring at Magnesium based fire can injure your eyesight, it's like watching an arc welder.
This is particularly important if burning actual solid chunks, which will burn longer.
-Don't breath the vapors created by ignition. This is common sense, but, remember you will be almost directly overtop of the ignition when it happens, so, in your delight don't inhale the gasses. :barf:
HOW IT WORKS
I think of magnesium more as a Firestarter not a tinder, per se.
I think of tinder as something that takes spark or flames, and continues the combustion process to achieve a lasting flame. Magnesium filings are closer to burning a match head , than lasting tinder material, UNLESS you have a chunk or pieces of it.
A solid piece of magnesium, the size of a pencil eraser, will give you a little more sustained burn time.
Trouble shooting:
IGNITION
If you are having problems getting ignition from a spark, it is most likely one of a few things:
-Not enough magnesium shaved off to provide a good target to catch the spark.
-Not small enough small particles, this would be if you had large slivvers or "curls" they sometimes need some smaller granular magnesium material to get the process started.
-Lastly, as mentioned above, bad striking form, in part due to the awkwardness that can sometimes occur due to the shape of the block.
Some people will cut the bottom corner off, which allows the fero-rod to be a little closer to the target area.
Save the piece, or rather than simply cutting it off, do your shaving at that corner and it will slowly take that shape.
PROBEMS PRODUCING ONGOING FIRE
-This is a function of tinder Quantity/Quality, and the Placement of the tinder very, very close to the pile of magnesium shavings.
Just like a good Paintjob, it's all in the prep work*.
*(This is probably the NUMBER 1 reason for "Fail to get a fire going" regardless of the method of ignition.)
I've watched campers play havoc trying to get a fire ignited, because they think a match and a piece of paper will instantly ignite their 1 foot diameter log.
Always have 3x the tinder you think you need, I just learned that saying recently, and it sounds like very good advice. Who hasn't watched their initial flame dwindle, then scrambled quickly for a little more tinder to keep it flamed up? Again, the Prep is important.
Methods
Some people will place the magnesium on a bed of dried leaves, or even make a "mat" out of strands of fiberous tinder, so that when the magnesium ignites, it instantly transfers heat and flame directly to the tinder, since they are touching each other.
Others will build a "nest" of tinder, a tinderbundle, place it on a rock or fallen tree, or piece of bark. They make a small "doorway" or hole in the bundle , place the shavings there, so that when they ignite, the tinder is right there, again, no more than a couple mm's away to take the flame and burn.
The Carbon steel hacksaw blade (sometimes sharpened on the back side) can produce small Magnesium "filings/shavings", as well as produce good sparkage off of the fero-rod that is glued to the magnesium bar.
A shortened round chainsaw file also wil produce fine "filings" and produce good sparkage on the rod. The spine of a knife is the age old sparker, as well.
WIND
I've read that Mag shavings can blow away in the wind?
So can tinder. Wind can blow out a match, even a Bic lighter. If you are in windy condtions, again, it's all about Prep.
Get out of the wind!! A rocky outcropping, or a fallen tree can provide a less windy place to start. If there is nothing natural around you to shelter the wind, you will have to build your own windscreen, from rocks, snow, your jacket, your backpack, or even you might have to dig a hole. Wind is going to cause problems far beyond the initial ignition of a fire , so it's best to take care of it up front, just as you will prep your tinder and fuel.
In 40 years of camping and hiking I have started my fair share of fires , and had some duds along the way.
I don't profess to an "expert"at anything, just wanted to share some things I've observed first hand, read about, and learned right here in W&SS.
MY STYLE:
This is what works for me, if you do it differently with success, that's all that counts!!
-I use a hacksaw blade and/or a broken off piece of round file.
-I toss the linked chain and use paracord. If using a hacksaw blade, attach it, with the paracord.
-In spring/summer I use a green leaf to shave the pile onto, then I dump it in my target area. This way i can have my fire site set, with tinder, but sahve the block in a more comfy spot, like on a downed tree, or big rock. In the fall, a piece of tree bark can do the same.
-I do the PREP of tinder and fire site before shaving any magnesium.
-I dump the shavings onto a very dry leaf or two, next to/just underneath the tinder pile, where sparks can still spray down at a 45° into the pile. If dry bark is available, I'll put the whole set-up on a peice of dry bark. Especially in late Fall and Winter, I find that the Cold conducting off of the ground can really suck the heat out of a new born fire.
-If the tinder starts burning, but then losses flame, you can still "blow it" back up, well, at least sometimes.
The MagBlock is not an automatic firestarter, I don't know if there is such a thing. What it IS, is an ignition catalyst.....it bridges the gap between fero-sparks and natural tinder, which, if you have chosen correctly and conditions are favorable, you should be able to get ignition without any magnesium, If you can't get it done WITH the magnesium, it's probably not the magnesium, but the expectation that the Magnesium is gonna do ALL the work, which just is not the case.
PREP PREP PREP
Last thing: and this goes for all fire making, even Bic Lighter
Practice, actually try it!! :thumbup:
Until you are confident you can make fire 100% of the time with your various kit items. A survival situation is no time to learn it. It should be second nature. This goes for any and all methods of fire building one plans on potentially using.
Hope this helped someone.
Hate em?
Seems there are mixed opinions on these little devices.
I have found them to work fine. They are not "magic" however.
They are made by the DOAN company, but sell as Coghlans, and other brands.
They vary in price up to $10 or $12, which is a total ripoff.
Check around, you can find them in the $5 range all the time.
http://www.campingsurvival.com/avsurfir.html
The magnesium firestarter was developed for US AirForce/Military survival kits, and is basically a block of magnesium, with a hole drilled for a chain, with a groove cut in the edge, and a small fero-rod glued to the block. They don't come with a "striker" (unless an aftermarket firm has included one), a knife (spine), hacksaw blade, or some kind of edged metal usually make the best items for striking against the fero-rod.
Upside:
Quick ignition
Burns even if wet
Burns very hot (4500°)
Downside:
-Burns very fast, poof, a few seconds.
-Takes a good bit of scraping to get enough mag shavings to ensure your tinder catches.
-the fero-rod is small/short, and being attached to the block, it can be cumbersome trying to hold it right next to your "target" striking area.
The magnesium shavings burn fast, like in a couple seconds they are done.
It is imperative you have your tinder ready, right there, to take the hot but short-lived flame created.
I have also found that if you can cut a couple slivvers, curls or micro-chunks, you get a longer initial burn, maybe enough to actually move your tinder directly over top of the fire.
The rule of thumb is that you need a circle of mag shavings same diameter as a penny. Some will say Quarter, dime, nickel...pick your favorite coin (hint: silver dollar is a overkill, but would make a nice little mushroom cloud).
SAFETY
-Magnesium burns white hot and gives off damaging UV light. Staring at Magnesium based fire can injure your eyesight, it's like watching an arc welder.
This is particularly important if burning actual solid chunks, which will burn longer.
-Don't breath the vapors created by ignition. This is common sense, but, remember you will be almost directly overtop of the ignition when it happens, so, in your delight don't inhale the gasses. :barf:
HOW IT WORKS
I think of magnesium more as a Firestarter not a tinder, per se.
I think of tinder as something that takes spark or flames, and continues the combustion process to achieve a lasting flame. Magnesium filings are closer to burning a match head , than lasting tinder material, UNLESS you have a chunk or pieces of it.
A solid piece of magnesium, the size of a pencil eraser, will give you a little more sustained burn time.
Trouble shooting:
IGNITION
If you are having problems getting ignition from a spark, it is most likely one of a few things:
-Not enough magnesium shaved off to provide a good target to catch the spark.
-Not small enough small particles, this would be if you had large slivvers or "curls" they sometimes need some smaller granular magnesium material to get the process started.
-Lastly, as mentioned above, bad striking form, in part due to the awkwardness that can sometimes occur due to the shape of the block.
Some people will cut the bottom corner off, which allows the fero-rod to be a little closer to the target area.
Save the piece, or rather than simply cutting it off, do your shaving at that corner and it will slowly take that shape.
PROBEMS PRODUCING ONGOING FIRE
-This is a function of tinder Quantity/Quality, and the Placement of the tinder very, very close to the pile of magnesium shavings.
Just like a good Paintjob, it's all in the prep work*.
*(This is probably the NUMBER 1 reason for "Fail to get a fire going" regardless of the method of ignition.)
I've watched campers play havoc trying to get a fire ignited, because they think a match and a piece of paper will instantly ignite their 1 foot diameter log.
Always have 3x the tinder you think you need, I just learned that saying recently, and it sounds like very good advice. Who hasn't watched their initial flame dwindle, then scrambled quickly for a little more tinder to keep it flamed up? Again, the Prep is important.
Methods
Some people will place the magnesium on a bed of dried leaves, or even make a "mat" out of strands of fiberous tinder, so that when the magnesium ignites, it instantly transfers heat and flame directly to the tinder, since they are touching each other.
Others will build a "nest" of tinder, a tinderbundle, place it on a rock or fallen tree, or piece of bark. They make a small "doorway" or hole in the bundle , place the shavings there, so that when they ignite, the tinder is right there, again, no more than a couple mm's away to take the flame and burn.
The Carbon steel hacksaw blade (sometimes sharpened on the back side) can produce small Magnesium "filings/shavings", as well as produce good sparkage off of the fero-rod that is glued to the magnesium bar.
A shortened round chainsaw file also wil produce fine "filings" and produce good sparkage on the rod. The spine of a knife is the age old sparker, as well.
WIND
I've read that Mag shavings can blow away in the wind?
So can tinder. Wind can blow out a match, even a Bic lighter. If you are in windy condtions, again, it's all about Prep.
Get out of the wind!! A rocky outcropping, or a fallen tree can provide a less windy place to start. If there is nothing natural around you to shelter the wind, you will have to build your own windscreen, from rocks, snow, your jacket, your backpack, or even you might have to dig a hole. Wind is going to cause problems far beyond the initial ignition of a fire , so it's best to take care of it up front, just as you will prep your tinder and fuel.
In 40 years of camping and hiking I have started my fair share of fires , and had some duds along the way.
I don't profess to an "expert"at anything, just wanted to share some things I've observed first hand, read about, and learned right here in W&SS.
MY STYLE:
This is what works for me, if you do it differently with success, that's all that counts!!
-I use a hacksaw blade and/or a broken off piece of round file.
-I toss the linked chain and use paracord. If using a hacksaw blade, attach it, with the paracord.
-In spring/summer I use a green leaf to shave the pile onto, then I dump it in my target area. This way i can have my fire site set, with tinder, but sahve the block in a more comfy spot, like on a downed tree, or big rock. In the fall, a piece of tree bark can do the same.
-I do the PREP of tinder and fire site before shaving any magnesium.
-I dump the shavings onto a very dry leaf or two, next to/just underneath the tinder pile, where sparks can still spray down at a 45° into the pile. If dry bark is available, I'll put the whole set-up on a peice of dry bark. Especially in late Fall and Winter, I find that the Cold conducting off of the ground can really suck the heat out of a new born fire.
-If the tinder starts burning, but then losses flame, you can still "blow it" back up, well, at least sometimes.
The MagBlock is not an automatic firestarter, I don't know if there is such a thing. What it IS, is an ignition catalyst.....it bridges the gap between fero-sparks and natural tinder, which, if you have chosen correctly and conditions are favorable, you should be able to get ignition without any magnesium, If you can't get it done WITH the magnesium, it's probably not the magnesium, but the expectation that the Magnesium is gonna do ALL the work, which just is not the case.
PREP PREP PREP
Last thing: and this goes for all fire making, even Bic Lighter
Practice, actually try it!! :thumbup:
Until you are confident you can make fire 100% of the time with your various kit items. A survival situation is no time to learn it. It should be second nature. This goes for any and all methods of fire building one plans on potentially using.
Hope this helped someone.
