Micarta Questions

shappa

shappa

Joined
Oct 15, 1998
Messages
3,556
What are the differences between paper and linen Micarta? Which do you prefer and why? Any tips on working with it would be appreciated.
Thanks! Tom

 
Tom,
I really dont work with micarta very much.
I know that both have a differnet look thats about it though.. This is a better question for someone who works with it more than I do.
Alan Folts may be able to give you some tips..
 
Maybe I can help....The difference between the Paper an Linen and canvas Micartas are what they use for the base material. Paper has a ground paper base, linen has layers of linen cloth and canvas has layers of canvas cloth. The linen and canvas have distinct patterns, the paper is usually plain. The cloth based micartas are the strongest, with linen being the stongest. The phenolic resin used in the manufacture of wouldnt be strong enough without the help of the base material. G-10 is actually Micatra with a fiberglass base and it is the lightest and strongest of all the Micartas IMHO. Hope this helps.

[This message has been edited by Rob Simonich (edited 10-23-98).]
 
I had avoided micarta for quite a while after having used it on one of my first knives. Two days ago I made a prototype of a new DP hunter in 440-C and needed to put on a pair of slabs. There in my drawer was a pair of micarta blanks. The knife has a mirror finish with nickel silver bolster-guard, stainless pins, thong hole and the micarta must be of the canvas or linen variety and boy is it nice! As the slabs taper to the guard, the layers of fabric and resin make a beautiful zebra like pattern. Really nice. I will definetly use it again. I think the first time I burnt the micarta. This time I shaped it with a fresh belt and finished by hand to 600 and then buffed.
 
In shaping a few handles, I've found that the paper/epoxy micartas are harder to grind, and burn more easily than the cloth/phenolic micartas. The linen micartas give an interesting contour map effect when you sculpt the handle surface, even when you use solid black and polish it. I find that black linen micarta looks a lot much more interesting on a knife than black ebony, because I can see the texture.

Use a good mask when grinding micarta.

- JKM
www.chaicutlery.com

 
Thanks for taking the time to anwser my questions. You gave me just the info that I needed!
Great forum, Thanks guys!
Tom
 
Sorry Darrel, I was in texas and couldnt answer questions the way I usually do..
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Everybody else has summed up you question pretty good, I would just like to add one thing.

Be carefull of micartas, especially paper based, always make sure you cut you peices in the same linear dirrection on the sheet, a lot of the new micartas out are made of linear paper(sheets) intead of the paper pulp varieties, so you will get a definite grain like pattern running through it instead of it being a solid color.

As far as the finishing is concerned, use fresh abrasives, and hand finish to a point beyond where you think you should stop.

This will make sure you dont overheat and burn the micartas, which changes the color and texture of them, and will give you a good even finish. Black micartas turn green, and red micartas turn yellow, if sanded too hot or if you try to take scratches out with the buffer.

Hope i could help, even if I'm late..
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Alan.
 
Is K-Carta a micarta. I bought some from Koval it says it is linen. I liked the color
bright red
 
I've found grinding canvas Micarta to be harder to grind than steel.

Papier or Linen Micarta can be lightly beadblasted to give a matte finish which is very easy to grip when it's wet.

Be SURE to wear an industrial repirator when grinding Micarta. Also use a dust collection system on your grinder and shop vacuum up any residue that's still laying around. Breathing the dust from Micarta will do grave damage to you lungs.
 
Hi
My experience with micarta is the paper based and g10. The only grinder i have run pretty slow. with the paper based grinding on 60grit paper it keeps the belt clean. the g10 get stuck or slow the the belt after avile. i really like the G10 because of the looks, lightweigt and toughness. i sand with the 60 grit, then with 400 grit. slack belt for the 400 grit works for me. then i hand sand to grit 1000-1200. Oh have anybody got experience with beadblasting G10
Jens Anso
 
Ansokniv, I have sandblasted G-10 and also glass bead blasted it, its much more resistant to the blasting than the paper or cloth based Micarta's, I give the handle a shot of WD-40 and wipe it down when I am done to even the color out else every fingerprint will show till the whole thing gets oily anyway. Also if you get too aggresive with the blaster, your pins or bolts will be raised above the handle material, as the G-10 blast away faster than the metal. Hope this helps.
 
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