My Bura 17" WW II Villager came just a bit ago.

Joined
May 18, 1999
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This is the first WW II I've gotten from H.I. I once bought a regular village model WW II and gave it away to someone in need of a good knife.

First impressions was 'Damn that's nice!!!!" The spec's is 17 1/2" OAL with a 5 1/2" handle that feels good in my hand. The weight is right at 1 1/2 Lbs.
The pic did the knife justice and it has less of an angle and more of a hump than the standard H.I. offering which I particularly like.:)
What Bill thought was rust on the tip isn't. I sorta forgot over time how close these blades are forged to finish and what first appears as a rusted spot is a bit of carbon left over from the forging that wasn't removed with the grinder.
Right along the edge also had some bluish black marks that may have been the results of the hardening process Bura did as the edge is about 1/64" thick instead of sharp along the sweet spot.
The edge bevel is much less hollow ground as well and is almost a flat grind along most of it which will lend itself well to a slightly convexed edge when I put it on my belt sander to rough sharpen it before it gets hit with a hone and a strop when I ever get time.

The blade is nicely hardened and marked I'm guessing with the new BG mark for BirGhorka instead of H.I., Bura's initial's are also in Devengari Script which I really like with his sign below.
My Nicholson Testing File skates over the sweet spot and towards the point digging in more and more towards the end of the point which is the way I like 'em.
Karda is maybe 57 Rc which is alright and the chakma about the same which isn't alright, but the way the kamis make them and have made them since I've been buying khuks except for a couple that came hardened properly.

I much prefer the handle on this model since it hasn't been polished with the jeweler's rouge!!!!
Being a village knife the buttcap isn't a smooth as the standard H.I. offering nor did I expect it too be.
It will take some smoothing on the belt sander or with a file to keep from cutting my hand on it as the burr around the edge is devilishly sharp!
I may sand the handle down a little to bring out the grain a little more and then give it a coat of something for protection like I did my village made villager of a similar size before it went under the seat of the truck.
But before I do any sanding on it I will put a few drops of Bondini-2 around the top flat part of the center ring to keep it from chipping while it's being worked on.
The super glue runs into the end grain strengthening the ring.
This one may go under the truck seat as well for Barb to use when we're out gathering Sage for our Sweatlodge.:)

I do want to remark on the new leather!!!! I'm happily and mightily impressed with the new leather and I think H.I. has finally hit their stride with it.
I liked the tooled scabbards, But I will take this new leather over and above the tooled scabbards anytime!!!!!!!
It's not only much heavier and of a much better quality the grain on it is beautiful!!!!:)
 
Edutsi,

I'm really glad you like yours as much as I like mine:) Bura makes a hellava good villager, ainnit;):D

My villager also has a tiny bluish black spot on the tip that runs along the edge for about 1/8". It does look to be a forging mark or something like that.

Are you going to treat the handle? And if so, how? I haven't done anything to mine yet--kinda like the rough natural look (just like my women;)).
 
I'm treating the handle of my 20" WWII-villager (Walosi method) and it is turning out quite well. It did take a bit of sanding to get it smooth and nice. In fact I was three coats of Tru-Oil in when I decided to really sand it down again as it still had a few bumps. I've been taking pictures along the way and hope to be able to post showing the sequence whenever I get done.

Edit: I also really like the scabbard for the villager and my recent 12" Siru, both scabbards fit perfectly without a rattle.

I had a bit of rust on my Vill (perhaps the forging marks) but when I polished them off, it made a shiny spot :D Now I have to shine up the whole thing, bye-bye satin blade LOL)
 
Haven't had my BG villager too long, but here's what I did with my handle and I think it looks pretty good--not up to tung-oil/ArmorAll, but good.

Handle looked like it was waxed upon arrival-
Sand smooth down to around 400 grit. Wax gone, by then, coarser paper at beginning doesn't clog up as fast.

[Really like Yvsa's Bondini idea for the ring--I'd do it as soon as any wax is gone so you get penetration into the wood]

Applied a few coats of orange oil with 600 grit sanding between. Wipe down and let dry/soak a couple of days.

Heated a carnuba/orange oil wax in the microwave to melt and brushed it on. Rub that in really well, wipe down, and buff when dry. (I thinned it with a little orange oil...don't think it helped much)

A couple of thin coats of wax with ArmorAll per Walosi will bring out a great shine, but it will of course go back to matte when used.

Somewhere I saw a procedure of dipping the handle repeatedly in a molten mixture of carnuba wax/pitch that was thinned with turpentine (I think). They gradually left out more and more thinner so the final coats built up into a hard finish on the outside. Intrigued me anyway.

The HI villagers are great!! :)
 
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