My First Historical Khukuri-Long leaf Victorian

This morning I held the blade by the tang and gave it a tap with a screwdriver. It rang a little, but I found if I held it by the cho and tapped it, it went BONG just like a bell.

The ringing trick works if you have cracks you cannot see that may be all the way through. Sometimes takes a tuned ear to pick it up. There may still be enough steel intact to let it ring. Just by looking at the crack tho i dont think id trust that blade for use. very cool piece of history tho.
 
That is true. It polishes better as well. The more catalyst the more heat and heat compromises strength. Seems like the 90 sec. and the 5 min is the most common stuff on the shelves at hardware and auto parts stores around my area.
Just a word of note. The longer the cure the stronger the epoxy is.
 
I bought a similar Kukri at Smokey Mountain Knife works back in June. I cleaned it up a little bit and gave it a few whacks into a downed tree to test her out. I've put the leather sheath up for safe keeping and plan to use her. Wish I could have afforded two (one to use and one to put up).

GregB
 
here is the top wiped off
Wb7gKkH.jpg

I got my Longleaf a couple of weeks ago. Looks like I lucked out, as mine is in excellent condition, both blade and handle. Came covered in thick grease as usual, but under the grease was only the slightest bit of surface rust, and it came off easily enough. The blade shows signs of considerable use and probably was resharpened multiple times. One area near the sweet spot is a little flattened; probably filed down a bit to remove nicks. I like that the bolster is steel rather than the white metal that is most often used today. Handle is small (about 4.25" long), but brilliantly shaped. It fits my average sized hand like a glove. The chakma and karda, on the other hand, had no grease and are so thick with rust that I'm not sure I'll even try to clean them up. They are nicely shaped and also have steel bolsters, which is a plus.

I'll try to post pictures and a more complete review when I have time and after some more cleanup.

For now I just wanted to mention that my Longleaf also has three numbers stamped into the spine to the right of the devangari. Whereas yours reads "199", mine reads "919". I have a guess about what that means. Perhaps others will have an opinion.

Most of these blades were probably made somewhere in the period 1890-1920. I'm guessing that mine was made in 1919, hence the "919" where the leading "1" would be left off as unnecessary, just as we used to leave off the leading two digits of year (1992 became 92) until the Y2K computer crisis came along with the year 2000. This might also explain why mine is in relatively good shape: It is a few years newer and probably saw less use and less exposure to the elements than some of the others.

Your blade's "199" was perhaps made in 1909, where the engraver left off the middle "0", just as we often do in dates: instead of 10/09/2013, we might write 10/9/2013. Not very consistent, but these spine engravings were done by different people at different times, and perhaps by Nepali who weren't accustomed to English-style numerals and date formats. Even today, several different date formats are in common use: mm/dd/yyyy, dd/mm/yyyy, or my favorite (for sorting purposes), yyyymmdd.

-- Dave
 
I think the "9" shaped character is actually a "1" and the "1" shaped character is actually a slash which would make yours 1/1. Wow That would really be cool!
Check out a few samples here:
http://khukurilipi.blogspot.com/2009/10/shree-ram-321-shree-3-chandra.html
That means yours would be the 1st issued weapon in that battalion 1. We shall wait for someone other than a Texan to interpret that tho:D. I dont think there was any need to write or mix western numbers with Devanagari script at that time. They did do that on some British WWII blades I believe. You should check out some links on the first few pages of this thread from Karda and Spiral. There is a wealth of info on the timelines of these weapons and the script format and usage. They are saying the script on these blades are consistent with the way the Rifles and other weapons are marked as well. My guess is " shree 3 candra ga ng jha(?)/11". It looks like "Ganga" to me but I doubt theres a battalion named Ganga:thumbup:
 
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The dates, if that is truly what they are, would be marked using the Nepali calendar, not a western calendar.
For example: Western=2013 - Nepali=2070
 
Uhhh Jens.... Im looking at both my old GAK's now and another factor has entered the picture i havent considered. These handles have been packed in cosmoline/grease or whatever for a hundred years so all my bright ideas are suddenly not so bright. Im thinking even if you did get epoxy inside there I doubt seriously that anything will stick to these oil soaked surfaces. Another consideration is unlike the bolsters on HI knives the ones on these Khuks are only about 5-10mm wide. Not much there to hold them. For this reason I dont think the injection method would be a viable repair. It may help take out the slack for display and handling purposes but doubt anything would stick to this wood very long. I torqued on my handles a bit just to see if they were as snug as they seemed and they do have a slight sponginess to them. No "free" play and you wouldnt notice it even if you tried chopping with it but If you clamped it in a vise you could feel it but that's about it. Either the glue has degraded some or like Bawanna said the wood has become a bit punky or both. Works great on new wood DOTD's and horn as well. There is also plenty of grease in the cracks of mine so that may be a problem? Guess they are short tang for good reason. Easy to rehandle:cool:
Awesome, can wait to try. Would slow setting expoxy be best?
 
Uhhh Jens.... Im looking at both my old GAK's now and another factor has entered the picture i havent considered. These handles have been packed in cosmoline/grease or whatever for a hundred years so all my bright ideas are suddenly not so bright. Im thinking even if you did get epoxy inside there I doubt seriously that anything will stick to these oil soaked surfaces. Another consideration is unlike the bolsters on HI knives the ones on these Khuks are only about 5-10mm wide. Not much there to hold them. For this reason I dont think the injection method would be a viable repair. It may help take out the slack for display and handling purposes but doubt anything would stick to this wood very long. I torqued on my handles a bit just to see if they were as snug as they seemed and they do have a slight sponginess to them. No "free" play and you wouldnt notice it even if you tried chopping with it but If you clamped it in a vise you could feel it but that's about it. Either the glue has degraded some or like Bawanna said the wood has become a bit punky or both. Works great on new wood DOTD's and horn as well. There is also plenty of grease in the cracks of mine so that may be a problem? Guess they are short tang for good reason. Easy to rehandle:cool:
Hmm. I will let it dry for some time and see if I can wiggle it out and then we know more. Could an x ray tells us something about the stage of the wood? Probably not without anything to compare it too?
I doubt this thick grease would run under the bolster and into the tang hole or penetrate the wood enough from the outside to reach the inside. But who knows maybe the cosmoline was much thinner when applied and maybe they even soaked it for some time instead of just brushing it on?
Yeah easy to rehandle. made me laugh :)
 
It's actually easier to rehandle than to fix the handle that's on it. You just can't get to the inside like it is.

You might be able to put the handle in a plastic bag and boil it to get it off. Clean up the inside or determine if the inside is sound enough and then reinstall it with epoxy instead of laha.

Worse case scenario is you find it rotten inside and have to build a new handle.
 
Question for Kronckew!
I notice the pic you use for your signature looks like a Gurkha Army Khuk. The handle looks really nice from what I can tell. Did you hit it with some steel wool or something? I considered doing this to get some of the surface crud off and expose some wood but dont want to destroy the patina either. Looks like you found a good compromise? Do you have a more pics posted somewhere by any chance? I wonder what kind of wood they may have used at that time? Guess it depends where they were made?
 
Do you guys think "2 ton epoxy" would suffice for attaching the handle? I'm almost done hollowing out the hickory handle. I don't think I'm going to put a pin through the tang, at least not yet. Ultimately I think it'd make the handle weaker by focusing the stress on one place. I'm also going to try to use monofilament fishing line for the bolster.
 
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