Need Advice On Rust

Raptor

Raptor

Joined
Aug 31, 2000
Messages
1,343
I was wondering if any of you have ever seen this problem on a carbon blade before??;)

It's a Marble's 7" Trailmaker with (I believe) 5160 blade.

I've tried removing the rust spot using Flitz and I achieved about a 50% positive result. But, as we all know, that leaves me with the flip side which is the other 50% and that's the negative part.

I'm a little nervous about taking a buffer to it and as you can already see I've started to make the finish uneven as it is.:eek:

Any advice on what to do here would be greatly appreciated.

--The Raptor--
 
Oops- I thought you were asking for advice on how to make a blade rust. I was gonna suggest saltwater, but then I actually read what you posted. :) I'm curious to see what others suggest-- I've got my mom's old Mora hunting knife, and it has rust spots all over the mirror finish blade after having been stored in a leather sheath for god knows how many years.
--Josh
 
I'd suggest scotchbrite pads (in the sandpaper dept at Home Depot). Get the finest available. Rub in the direction of the blade finish - in this case towards the edge. You can rub out the entire blade that way without too much trouble so it all looks the same when you're done.

Good luck.
 
S.O.S Pads work great and will not scratch as bad as a ScotchBrite Pad will.
Todd
 
Yeah, but since that blade obviously has a satin finish on it I'd use a satin finish wheel if you have one available. After you're done you'll still be able to see the pitting but it will blend in very well otherwise. I like a satin finish for that very reason. Other than it being fast, efficient and nice looking. The satin finish will hold more oil and be more corrosion resistant than a mirror finish. That's just in my humble opinion of course. If Jerry says something else just listen to what he says. I'll be listening too. I have alot to learn.
 
Mr. Hossom says to try scotchbrite???
Well then, I try scotchbrite, now don't I??;)

I'm going to assume that I should go with the less abrasive "green" version versus the "red/maroon"? Do you think that I will be left with a lot of scratches after scotchbriting? And would you use a lubricant with the pad?

Todd1,
Your suggestion of SOS sounds good too!!
I hadn't even given SOS a consideration but I can see how it would probably do the trick.

Thanks guys...

--The Raptor--
 
Max,
I'll listen to you too!!;)

I actually do have access to buffing wheels. Unfortunately though, they're the portable drill mounted types. We use them at work to buff out light scratches in aluminum. They would probably work OK but I'd really have to be careful. And I know that these particular wheels were purchased for aluminum, brass, and copper. Not steel. I don't know if that makes any difference or not.

Either way.....Thanks for your input.:)

--The Raptor--
 
Ultrafine steel wool (available from Lee Valley Tools) works fine, with a little oil. It's almost as soft as cotton and wipes away minor rust spots without visibile scratching if you go lightly.
 
Max, don't BS a BS'er... :)

If you put some mild abrasive compound on one of those buffs, you can do the job in about 30 seconds.
 
Raptor, when you say 'buffing wheels' it makes me think of hard felt. Is that what you're talking about? What I'm talking about is more like a loose wheel. Kind of like steel wool on a grinding motor. Sort of. It's like cotton strands coated with a very fine abrasive instead of anything solid. Am I making any sense here? Stay away from the solid wheels for what you're doing. And the thing to remember is that if you use a high speed wheel of any kind you need to be prepared to resurface the entire blade so it will match. Unless you use a satin finish wheel. Do you see what I'm saying?

Jerry, all BS aside. Bill taught me that beer can be safely sent through the mail. What kind is your favorite and what would be your mailing address? Send it in email. If you don't tell me your favorite you'll get mine. If you like Red Dog you're covered. This is your chance to get that special beer you always wanted to try old buddy. Did you say Fosters? That's Austrailian for bea. Email me when you get a chance and I'll get you hooked up before the mailing temps go above critical. Yuk yuk yuk!!!
 
Which one is the best for light surface rust on satin: Flitz, SOS, or Scotch bright? I want to avoid light scratches.

What works best on bead blast finish?
 
Max,
I believe that This is the kit that we most commonly use.

Jerry,
This buffing kit (link above) contains abrasives and more or less doesn't work for sh*t without it. The only problem with these wheels is that they have such a small face diameter (1/2") that you can never seem to really get that "even finish" going. It's been my experience that if you even tilt the drill a little bit up so that you catch the edge of the wheel it seems to leave a slightly different finish just in that particular spot. And, of coarse if your a perfectionist, then it stands out like a sore thumb.:eek:

I guess what I'm trying to say here is that based on what little resources that I have at my disposal I might be better off doing this job by hand. 'Ya know what I mean??

Ed,
Thanks for your suggestion. I'll check out Lee Valley's site tomorrow when it's not so late and I'm not so tired.;)

Thanks again for all suggestions and help....

--The Raptor--
 
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