New Guy. Gaining experience & What would you call this

Joined
Apr 28, 2013
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8
First post. Ahhh, this is always a fraught experience for a n00b to any special interest area. Well, not that you care but some background might help.

I started making knives just a couple years ago. I started with no experience and learned what I do and how I do it from doing it which means a few mistakes were made and lessons learned. I'm certain that I do many things that some will call wrong or sub-optimal but I trust you'll all be nice about it and help me along rather than troll me with chides and burns.

I've made maybe 10 knives so far. I like to work with amboyna and thuya burl for scales and I use Alabama Damascus and Two Finger Knife damascus blade blanks. Seemed to me that if you're going to make a knife make one using exotic materials that I'd never be able to afford if I wanted to purchase something similar. All my kitchen knives that I've purchased are nice, some are exquisite but all are pretty unexciting. The knives I make are at least to me exciting and interesting. Of note, I do not use rivets/pins of any sort. My scales get attached directly to the blade using 2-part epoxy and high pressure clamps and long curing cycles. After all the problems that I've had with rivets I decided early on to attach them in a way that would require the complete destruction of the scales in order to remove them. It's also a hell of a lot easier to shape them without having to dodge clamps.

I don't use much in the way of power tools. The biggest tool I use is a drill with a sanding roll that I rough shape the scales with. Otherwise, everything is done the hard way, with a file and sandpaper. Wood is finished with 20 coats of boiled linseed oil that is hand rubbed in with steel wool after an initial sanding by hand. When the fire jumps out of the burl then it's done. Takes a good 20 hours per knife but the manual aspect of it is what I like. Keeps the hands busy.

What I'm curious about here is what one would call something like the knife below (better pics now)
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other side

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Materials are Thuya burl scales, Alabama Damascus 416 layer blade. No rivets.
 
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I'd say that since you've come up with the design, you get to name it. I like the lines of this one.
How thick is the blade at the spine? The first few knives I made didnt have any pins in the handle, and some really thin blades flexed enough to crack the epoxy and break the bond.
 
i'd say modified santoku. it looks nice by the way. you can see there was time put into bringing out the character in that wood. technical question, how are you heat treating your blades?
 
I don't do any heat treating. The furnace and quench equipment is just too bulky to use anymore. I buy my blades from Alabama Damascus or Two Finger Knife already heat treated and beveled and in some semblance of the shape I want. Usually I'll have to modify (more often than not subtantially modify) the handles and sometimes the blades to make the shape I want.

Most of my blades are .125" (1/8th inch) thick, some as much 3/16". The one above is .080" in the back of the tang tapering out to a max of .100 at the based of the blade and back to .080" at the pointy end. It's about as rigid as a steel I-beam.

Up till recently I'd been calling it a Scimitar-Santoku Chef's Knife but I'm not sure if I like the juxtaposition of Middle-eastern/Japanese/French cultures in that name. It stops making sense when the name draws on too many histories.

My next knife is a paring knife for the wife and then I might get to start on the fillet knife. The paring knife will get burled amboyna scales. The fillet knife I'm wanting to find a slab of burled myrtle for.
 
I'd call it a sweet knife, you got some talent there buddy! Welcome to the forums as well!
 
hmmm..... so in essence its a kit knife.


if by that you mean I didn't forge, cut and heat treat the blade myself, then yeah. In the sense that I reshaped it a good bit, mucked with middling details of blade finish and carved the scales out of blocks of wood and fitted the whole thing together by hand and spent endless hours sanding and rubbing in BLO, no it's not a kit. Just because I didn't cut the blade out of a plate of steel and harden it myself doesn't make it a kit. Kit's come with all the parts. I had to make my parts. I also don't put my own edges on. Not because I can't but because I'm lazy and for 7 bucks I get a precision edge to my specifications done by a pro and I don't have to waste time on that.
 
It looks kind of like a hakata bocho: http://zknives.com/knives/kitchen/misc/type/Hakata_Bocho.shtml
If I can make one suggestion, don't use too much pressure when you glue the scales on. If there is not enough epoxy in the joint, due to too much pressure squeezing it out, it will not be strong. Also, I don't know what epoxy you're using, but you really should use some sort of pins or rivets unless your epoxy is top shelf (Brownells acraglas or west systems).
There are a lot of steps in knifemaking and not everyone does each of them. Very few people make their own steel, for example. Some people use waterjet cutting and a lot of people outsource their HT. So there is a continuum from doing absolutely every part of the knife yourself to buying a knife off of the shelf. As long as one is honest about what he or she did and didn't do (as you did), there's no problem.

- Chris
 
Bocho.. hmm well that lends itself well to some nicknaming. ;) thanks for the tips too. I had problems early on with scale adhesion and durability until I figured out that the glue needs to be laid on just so and very evenly distributed and the scales and the tang have to be perfectly mated for it to work otherwise the scales just pop off after a short time. That means endlessly sanding the scales on a very hard and very flat surface covered with sandpaper (yep... primitive as hell) and then following suit with the tang and some dye-chem to track progress. There's usually a tiny little bit of wavyness to the tang metal which takes a few hours to work out. Working it out though gives a nicely profiled surface for the epoxy to bite into and I bond both scales at the same time so I can make use of the rivet holes by filling them with the epoxy. I have done a couple experiments with drilling small holes into the scales and injecting epoxy into them at the time of bonding to act as sort of epoxy-nails. So far I've had really great durability. Any suggestions about that practice would be very interesting.

the great bulk of the time I've spent doing this so far has been the learning how to deal with the whole handle thing without rivets. My newest knife is going to have 5/8" stainless steel pins the nearly the whole way through capped with some sort of inlay... right now I'm thinking about whittling some from an abalone shell I have or I could finally put to use these little frags of hippo ivory I have laying around. I already got the scale material. More amboyna. Love that stuff.
 
If you can find blanks that you are happy with and work, more power to ya. as mentioned, just be sure to say blade came from xdsew blade company. was at small k&g show and fellow was talking about all the work he did making the blade. took a close look and saw it was the same blank i had purchased from a supplier here.
have you found any interesting local wood to use for scales?
 
Local woods have been less than interesting. I've stopped by the woodworking shop several times looking for bits of interesting ultra dense woods. The one block of good stuff I found was ridiculously expensive for what I'd call nothing better than A-grade, certainly not exhibition grade like I prefer.

I've never been shy about where the blades come from. The 1 completed blade that I did a lot of fabrication on is the antler handled one below. It started life as a planer blade making peeler cord in a Weyerhauser wood mill. Took me and my dad several hours to whittle it down and shape a point on it. Amazingly tough steel. We didn't put any hollow grind in the edge, instead set the whole blade as a wedge. The purpose of that knife as a rib-cage splitter required a blade profile more like a maul or axe than a proper knife.
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I'd imagine knife making is fraught with a lot more credit taking than some other hobbies I'm into, like guns. In guns it's hard to take credit for stuff you didn't do since most everything is a retail part that is just dropped in and most people have gunsmiths do the work for them.

For those that are in to such things, here's a rifle that I've been making with local wood. Action is a 94 model 1915 production Swedish Mauser with a Troup Systems .45acp/1911 mag conversion, A-grade Richards Microfit stock of California Black Walnut, Barrel is chambered for .45acp and is 16.5", uses m95 mauser front sight and williams peep rear, timney trigger. I have a custom wildcat that fits the .45acp chamber called .45Cinderblock that launches 185gr JHP noslers and 200gr JRN's at a chrono'd 1980fps. I have intermediate loadings for it from 900fps all the way up including a pair of super hard cast lead loadings that get 200gr bullets (SWC and HBRN) out at 1650fps. I have gotten the lead loads up faster but the cast bullets are too fragile to be useful there. It's not completely finished yet, there is some R&D to improve feeding and a lot more wood finishing to be done on it. This I spent quite a lot of time on and despite it coming largely as a kit it was not a bolt together operation at all. I had to do quite a lot of metal work and wood work to make it all fit together and get it headspaced correctly. The .45Cinderblock loading is based on .460 rowland brass. The load data is not in a book and I won't post it in an open forum but any reloaders that are interested can PM me for more info and I'll be happy to share.
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I customized an Ontario field knife (10" blade) that came out similar to your knife. My kids call it the "machete knife". Used hidden pins and Gorilla Glue to attach the scales, along with 6-7 coats of linseed oil (wood not stabilized). So far it has held up really well, gets used daily.

Ric
 
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