new tactical gladius design - ongoing WIP

crimsonfalcon07

crimsonfalcon07

Joined
Dec 27, 2010
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I'm planning a new gladius design here, something like 23-24" OAL. Aldo's 5160, 1/4" stock. I'm planning on posting my progress in here for any comments. Still trying to figure out what I want to order for handle material. Almost certainly something from Burl Source. Leaning towards california redwood burl or maybe desert ironwood if I can get a long enough piece.

So far I've sketched out the design, and traced it onto my steel. I'll be cutting it out with the angle grinder after I get done teaching this afternoon, and hopefully do the fullers. Tomorrow, will start the grinds. Will be flat ground, not convexed.

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For those of you with more experience making these things, I'd like to get more of an angled or curved plunge. Any suggestions as to how to accomplish that? Can I just angle the blade against the belt? I may just wimp out and do a straight plunge like I usually do, but it's something I gotta learn sooner or later. Cheers!
 
Decide on angled or curved plunge before starting grinding!!! The curve is accomplished by gently starting the bevel; I found it took more practice to get right then either straight or angled, and you have 4 bevel terminations to deal with, but is the easiest to hand finish. The angle termination is as you suggested... I would make a cardboard template and stick it to my platen as a guide.

Leave lots of ricasso... it leaves room for second and third attempts!
 
Hey, get at me on that design if you want any input. I really loves me some gladius, and we've come up with some good thoughts together on our last project

IMHO, that design is awesome, but a few things that would make me like it a bit more

first, bring the angle of the tip down a little... right now it looks like it's about 45 degrees. I think something like 30 would be better as it would increase stabbing potential (which is what a gladius really does best)

smooth the transition from the tip to the main edge. A smooth curve (if you can do it) may look less "tactical" but it improves slashing and draw cutting... also looks nice

Are you going to do a fuller?

I LOVE that handle design... it's beautiful
 
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No worries, it's actually planned on being a curved edge like the first gladius I did. It's just easier to cut out if I leave it at a straight line for now. Then I round it. So far I've gotten it cut out and fullered. Still refining the shape of everything.

Here I've got a rough cutout with the angle grinder completed.
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Here, as you can see, I've rounded the tip, and ground in the fullers. Those will probably get more refinement as I progress, but for right now, I've got them deep enough that I can freehand them deeper if need be.
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William, thanks for the tips. I've been sketching to see if a regular flat plunge will look okay, or if I want to attempt a curve or something. I think a curve might look better, but I'm afraid of ruining it. I think I'll probably practice on some scrap first, or maybe save the curve for a later rendition after I've gotten some practice. I really like the idea of the cardboard template. I'll have to look into that.
 
bro, i LOVE that tip... you already have my attention with that one!

what's the blade length?

also, the Kukri you made me is a MONSTER.... i took it out and did some chopping with it. It chops at least as well as my SOG hawk.
 
Glad to hear that kukri is treating you well. I was sorry to see it go, and haven't yet gotten around to trying to make another one. So you have a one-of-a-kind at the moment, although I appreciate you giving me permission to use the design again if I ever decide to.

The blade length on this is 16.5" from tip to ricasso.
 
yeah, that length is really nice. You'll have yourself a winner there.

I really hope you do get to make some more of those Kuks. Other people deserve to have a tool as cool as this.

By the way, i did some moding on your kydex. If you do make any more of them, let me know and i'll send you pics of it. It is a lot more molded now. I just need to figure out how to attach a belt loop to it and it's perfect
 
how's the weight now that you have the steel mostly down to where it's gonna be?

i'd say that thing deserves a g10 handle to balance out that big honkin blade
 
It's still pretty heavy, considering this one started from 1/4" stock. Not nearly as whippy quick as the 3/16" one. Balance is currently up a little over 3" from the top of the grip, and just under that above the top of the guard. But it's still pretty lively in hand. I don't have any way to check weight on it, but I'd estimate it's a little under 2 pounds. Balance will improve a lot once I get handle scales on it. And maybe some spacers also. I don't think I'm going to do G10 on this one. I prefer a more lively pattern, so I'm looking for a nice piece of distinctive wood.
 
Just jumped on the sale prices on california redwood burl from Burl Source. I've got a matching dagger planned also. Also picked up a nice block of maple burl for the wakichete that I've already got ready for HT. So this one will be redwood burl with 2 types of mosaic pins.
 
Hand sanded to 220 grit and refined the grinds some more. Still need to take it to 400 or so, and work on smoothing the edges on the handle.

IMAG0613.jpg
 
Yeah, it's still a prototype. I think once I find out if the design is solid, they'll go for 200-250, kydex sheath to be included. I suspect I probably should get some spacers for the balance to be right, but I think I've got a design I like, finally. This one should be ready to be added to the shipment for heat treat by monday, if all goes well.
 
i think you have yourself a winner sir. Do me a favor though. Email me sometime before you go to full production. There's an issue i want to chat with you about to save you some grief later.
 
Made up a very very rough handle so I could check approximate weight. POB is now about 2" above the hilt, which is about where I'd want it. It's very solid-feeling, and pretty hefty for a short sword, so I'm going to nix the liner idea, since that will add too much weight.

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Truth be told, I'm likely never going to go to "full production." I'm a hobbyist, so I pretty much keep patterns on hand, and if anyone wants one of something that I've made, I can grind one out, and it will come out as close to how the customer wants it as I can manage (steel thickness, handle material, pin material, small design changes, filework, etc). Other than that, I'll just keep making blades that I want. Given my relatively low budget and the fact that, right now, my hobby isn't paying for itself by any stretch, and most of the things that I've made for people have been either at cost or on my own dime, I'm not really in a position to make more until I feel that I will be able to sell them, and even then, I'm not likely to make more than a handful.
 
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