New to Forging...I feel I'm doing something wrong...

S

Studio10Knives

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Jan 28, 2022
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I have been looking for forging tips, so if there is a good thread on this already feel free to just point me at that...I have done a bit of stock removal but trying to move into forging. I just can't seem to get the metal to move very much. I am using 5160 from a leaf spring, it's pretty thick and I don't seem to be having luck in drawing it out, or really doing much more than denting it, at least that's what it feels like to me. I have been watching youtube videos, but it doesn't seem to work for me like it does for them. Am I being impatient? Starting at the wrong place? Wrong steel? Help!
 
Hard to know without seeing what's going on.
You mentioned that you are using thicker stock, how thick?
What size hammer are you using?
What color is the steel when you take it out of the forge? What color is itwhen you stop hammering? And is this in bright light or dark?
These and other variables can be part of your problem...

My only suggestion at this point with no information would be to join your local blacksmithing organization and hook up with someone who will share time with you at the forge.
 
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So, there's a guy named Brian Brazeal they you should look up on YouTube. He's a blacksmith, and the techniques he uses are amazing. If you can get into a class with him I'd do it in a second.

Here's a video of him forging a "knife" out of some clay. Clay is a really good analog to figure out how metal moves under the hammer without burning fuel and ruining steel.

 
weo said:
Hard to know without seeing what's going on.
You mentioned that you are using thicker stock, how thick?
What size hammer are you using?
What color is the steel when you take it out of the forge? What color is itwhen you stop hammering? And is this in bright light or dark?
These and other variables can be part of your problem...

My only suggestion at this point with no information would be to join your local blacksmithing organization and hook up with someone who will share time with you at the forge.
Click to expand...
Thank you so much for responding...sorry, the info was a little thin.
The stock is leaf spring from an F-250, so pretty thick, well over 1/4 inch.
I have a couple hammers, one 3 1/2 lb, one 3 lb.
I forge in my garage, not too bright. I am getting the steel up to bright yellow, stop once it starts getting grey.

I will try to look up local blacksmith/bladesmiths, I am in the Tampa/St. Pete area.

Thanks again

Mert
 
A.McPherson said:
So, there's a guy named Brian Brazeal they you should look up on YouTube. He's a blacksmith, and the techniques he uses are amazing. If you can get into a class with him I'd do it in a second.

Here's a video of him forging a "knife" out of some clay. Clay is a really good analog to figure out how metal moves under the hammer without burning fuel and ruining steel.

Click to expand...
Thanks for the link, I'll check it out for sure!

Mert
 
Just a comment or two:
Leaf springs off that truck may be many alloys but are almost surely NOT 5160. You are OK to use 5160 as a range for forging temperatures and HT. 9260 would be a close guess. The 2% silicon makes it flex better and the 1% manganese makes it tougher.

The bright yellow is OK to start forging the leaf springs.
Greyish is way too cool for stopping. You should stop at medium/light red (well before dull red). The forging temperature range is start at 2100°F and stop at 1600°F.

You don't just pound on the steel with a hammer to make it thinner. You use the pein to draw it out. Work drawing at full heat and stop at cherry red. Youi won't do much drawing by hand below 1700°F. Once drawn out then forge the billet smoother and start shaping.

It is often easier to forge out oversize steel to the working thickness (about 125% of the desired thickness), then saw out the basic profile, and finally forge it to rough shape. Don't kill yourself trying to forge in every detail, do that in the filing and grinding stages.

Start with a reasonable size piece of steel. If you have 1/4"+ springs, start with about 6" to 8" of it. That will forge a large camp knife. A good set of U-Box tongs ( Z-Box tongs are even better) is the best way to hold the steel while working it out.

If you send me an email with your shipping address, and what size and type of knives you want to forge, I'll send you a box full of good known steel. Merry Christmas.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Just a comment or two:
Leaf springs off that truck may be many alloys but are almost surely NOT 5160. You are OK to use 5160 as a range for forging temperatures and HT. 9260 would be a close guess. The 2% silicon makes it flex better and the 1% manganese makes it tougher.

The bright yellow is OK to start forging the leaf springs.
Greyish is way too cool for stopping. You should stop at medium/light red (well before dull red). The forging temperature range is start at 2100°F and stop at 1600°F.

You don't just pound on the steel with a hammer to make it thinner. You use the pein to draw it out. Work drawing at full heat and stop at cherry red. Youi won't do much drawing by hand below 1700°F. Once drawn out then forge the billet smoother and start shaping.

It is often easier to forge out oversize steel to the working thickness (about 125% of the desired thickness), then saw out the basic profile, and finally forge it to rough shape. Don't kill yourself trying to forge in every detail, do that in the filing and grinding stages.

Start with a reasonable size piece of steel. If you have 1/4"+ springs, start with about 6" to 8" of it. That will forge a large camp knife. A good set of U-Box tongs ( Z-Box tongs are even better) is the best way to hold the steel while working it out.

If you send me an email with your shipping address, and what size and type of knives you want to forge, I'll send you a box full of good known steel. Merry Christmas.
Click to expand...
Stacy, thank you so much for the great advice! I have just figured out using the edge of the anvil and will start using the peen more. I will also be looking for some U-Box or Z-Box tongs. This was very helpful! I am not quite sure how to email you in here, still looking for that and I will send you the info. Hope you had a great Christmas!

Mert
 
Update on the knife I was working on, got it pounded close and did some initial clean up grinding, not too far...just thought I'd put it up here

Mert
 

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Forging is a bit of a learning curve! I started out with 1080 and 8670 and some O-1 rod. Those worked pretty well and were easy to forge. I tried some 52100, but ruined the piece (forged it too cool and got some cracks). I heard 5160 is harder to move and needs higher temps. Try a piece of 8670 or 1080 or something like that and see how it does.
 
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