Recommendation? New to smithing

Joined
Jul 29, 2023
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So I'm looking at getting into Smithing as a hobby to help release stress. Maybe make a few knives here there. Keep going on Amazon and looking at gear but don't know what to get.
Budget's going to be right around 500 to 900.

So so for the forge is there a good one on Amazon? Or should I go with the majestic that they use on forge n fire

And an anvil you guys have a good suggestion from Amazon?
I know Amazon's got some tongs and a couple shaping tools
Any advice on what to get me going?
 
Welcome Ed.
It is a slippery slope getting into knifemaking. Once you start sliding in it is hard to stop. Cost is an issue you need to decide on very early. Honestly, it would be extremely difficult to set up a knife shop for $500-800 unless you had a good shop of tools and machines already.

For forging knives in a simple and rustic way you will need a basic forge (propane is easiest) an anvil and some forging hammers/tongs, and some way to finish the knives. For most folks that is a propane forge and some sort of belt grinder, a 75 pound or bigger anvil, at least one blacksmith cross peen hammer, a pair of tongs, ... plus a good number of other tools and supplies.

Gorge - Atlas Forge is a good simple forge that works.
Anvil - Atlas makes very good knifemaking anvils at reasonable prices. The small one works fine for simple knives and hobbyists.
Hammers - Suitable hammers to learn on can be bought at Harbor Freight, or specific smithing hammers from Blacksmith supply houses and knife suppliers. Many smiths end up with a bucket of specific purpose hammers.
Tongs - Tongs are task specific, too. In the beginning, a pair of long handed pliers from HF will get you started.
A small drill press works fine for drilling the tang holes and handles. Even a hand drill will do on the first few.
You will need a saw to cut the steel bars. A High-Tension hand hacksaw and good bi-metal blades will work just fine (about $25)
You will need some 8" to 10" flat files. A mill bastard and a second cut will do to start.
You will need a big stack of wet-or-dry sandpaper. 3M works, but there are many other brands. Tru-Grit is a good supplier as is most knife suppliers like Chuck at Alpha Knifemakers Supply, etc. You want 100, 200, and 400 grit at least.
Once the knife is forged, filed, sanded, it needs to be heat treated to harden the metal. This can be done in the forge for carbon steels but needs an electric HT oven for stainless and high alloy steels. You can send the blades out for HT or have another smith do it during a shop visit.
Of course, you will need some steel and handle material. You may even have some offered to you free to help you get started.

There are probably many things I left off but wanted to give you the basic scope of it.
The best plan is to find a smith in your area and visit him/her. They can show you the basics and may have some old equipment to let you use. Washington and Oregon have a lot of makers, so you may get lucky and have one a short drive away. There are certainly several in a 2-hour drive window.


Forging is just one method of shaping the blade. It is fun but does not finish the knife. You still have to refine and do the final shaping with abrasive tools. Stock removal is the other way, where you shape the knife completely by cutting, filing, grinding, and sanding. I recommend starting with a simple stock removal project using hand tools. A drop point hunter is the normal first knife project. You can do this for as little as $100.
Start slow. Make your first knives with a hacksaw, files and sandpaper. If you had fun, start planning on adding equipment.
 
Welcome, Ed. Your profile says that you are in Wentachee, so I'll recommend joining the NWBA (NorthWest Blacksmith Association) and plan on attending their monthly hammer-ins in Longview. I know there are a couple members in the Yakima Valley, and most smiths enjoy having interested folks come over to help and learn. It's also a great resource for blacksmithing equipment.
 
If you're really into yak shaving you can get a basic set of tongs and use them to forge the other tongs. This will teach you about general forging and might even save some money in the long run :p then get into hammer forging
I've found you don't need a big forge or anvil for knives. I have a NC tool knifemaker forge and a BSL blade smithing anvil and they are generally bigger than i need for 20-30cm kitchen knives. You need mass under where you're hitting, and only a hot spot for forging.

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Welcome Ed.
It is a slippery slope getting into knifemaking. Once you start sliding in it is hard to stop. Cost is an issue you need to decide on very early. Honestly, it would be extremely difficult to set up a knife shop for $500-800 unless you had a good shop of tools and machines already.

For forging knives in a simple and rustic way you will need a basic forge (propane is easiest) an anvil and some forging hammers/tongs, and some way to finish the knives. For most folks that is a propane forge and some sort of belt grinder, a 75 pound or bigger anvil, at least one blacksmith cross peen hammer, a pair of tongs, ... plus a good number of other tools and supplies.

Gorge - Atlas Forge is a good simple forge that works.
Anvil - Atlas makes very good knifemaking anvils at reasonable prices. The small one works fine for simple knives and hobbyists.
Hammers - Suitable hammers to learn on can be bought at Harbor Freight, or specific smithing hammers from Blacksmith supply houses and knife suppliers. Many smiths end up with a bucket of specific purpose hammers.
Tongs - Tongs are task specific, too. In the beginning, a pair of long handed pliers from HF will get you started.
A small drill press works fine for drilling the tang holes and handles. Even a hand drill will do on the first few.
You will need a saw to cut the steel bars. A High-Tension hand hacksaw and good bi-metal blades will work just fine (about $25)
You will need some 8" to 10" flat files. A mill bastard and a second cut will do to start.
You will need a big stack of wet-or-dry sandpaper. 3M works, but there are many other brands. Tru-Grit is a good supplier as is most knife suppliers like Chuck at Alpha Knifemakers Supply, etc. You want 100, 200, and 400 grit at least.
Once the knife is forged, filed, sanded, it needs to be heat treated to harden the metal. This can be done in the forge for carbon steels but needs an electric HT oven for stainless and high alloy steels. You can send the blades out for HT or have another smith do it during a shop visit.
Of course, you will need some steel and handle material. You may even have some offered to you free to help you get started.

There are probably many things I left off but wanted to give you the basic scope of it.
The best plan is to find a smith in your area and visit him/her. They can show you the basics and may have some old equipment to let you use. Washington and Oregon have a lot of makers, so you may get lucky and have one a short drive away. There are certainly several in a 2-hour drive window.


Forging is just one method of shaping the blade. It is fun but does not finish the knife. You still have to refine and do the final shaping with abrasive tools. Stock removal is the other way, where you shape the knife completely by cutting, filing, grinding, and sanding. I recommend starting with a simple stock removal project using hand tools. A drop point hunter is the normal first knife project. You can do this for as little as $100.
Start slow. Make your first knives with a hacksaw, files and sandpaper. If you had fun, start planning on adding equipment.
Thanks for the reply. Yeah I know I wouldn't be able to do anything but crude knives you know like they did in the 1700s for a while so I can get other stuff. But I'm willing to do a little bit of the extra work. Mainly I'm looking at getting into blacksmithing and knife forging another foraging that's just the way it kind of distress and beat on something. That's why I was asking what people suggested for the gas forges that are on Amazon with their opinions where if they had used different ones. Because unfortunately there's not a lot of reviews for them except for the cheapest one. And I watched the video just recently that the cast steel handle from harbor freight is actually a pretty good one. So I may consider that. I'm just looking at getting into the hobby so you'll probably just be some small little stuff here and there and probably pretty crude as railroad spikes or something
 
Welcome, Ed. Your profile says that you are in Wentachee, so I'll recommend joining the NWBA (NorthWest Blacksmith Association) and plan on attending their monthly hammer-ins in Longview. I know there are a couple members in the Yakima Valley, and most smiths enjoy having interested folks come over to help and learn. It's also a great resource for blacksmithing equipment.
Yeah it's been a long time since I've been to Yakima. It's where I grew up. I don't know when I'll get down there again and Long Beach is a little bit too far for me to go at the moment. The hopefully I'll find a little help here and there. I have joined their facebook group for the Northwest so we'll see what it brings
 
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