Newbie Sharpening Questions

Mike Large said:
My best advice is be patient and use your 40 degree sharpmaker... I sharpened it every night with medium, fine, then ultra for about two weeks and FINALLY.... perfect. Is this a wrong way of going about It? Maybe. But I can tell you it WILL get there eventually. My large 21 came to me new and very close to dull and took a good while but after patience and hope(haha) it's finally there. Hope this helps friend.
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I'm totally on board with this advice. The sharpmaker is a wonderful tool but only, ONLY if the knife that you're sharpening lines up with the set angles. Just going at it on a regular basis will, eventually, get a knife to that place and then it's essentially a fool proof system.
 
I can finally add my .02 to this thread. My small Inkosi was approaching butter knife dull. The secondairy seemed quite convex so I convinced myself that the Sharpmaker was going to be too much work (standard rods). I've been debating a professional sharpening vs. WSKO @ 17.5 degrees (I've done well with that in the past on other knives) but hesitant that either way I'd risk screwing something up (bad -bad-bad luck with a 'recommended' local sharpener).

Finally I decided on a few Sharpmaker passes with Sharpie, and the 20 degree setting matched almost perfectly. It's a razor now, and I am quite pleased! Admittedly, I didn't get the tip quite as sharp as the belly or flat...but it'll still make hair fly. I'll get it next time.

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I didn't even try the 15 degree setting as the 20 matched so well. I don't forsee keeping it sharp will be too difficult now. :)
 
Is it weird i already own a WE and just wanted to buy some benchstones for some kitchen knifes as well as helping my friends. Feel like thats going backwards. So just bought me a DMT 8x3 coarse diamond stone and a Spyderco UF 8x3 Ceramic stone. In addition bought me some leather and gonna make myself a strop. Still debating whether to get the Bark River black/green compound or the sprays. But sprays just too pricey for trying out.
 
No reason not to use the 30 degree setting. The steel is fine with that unless you are creating a lot of lateral stress, and the 30 degrees will cut more easily and stay sharp longer (it takes more wear to get to the same dull edge thickness).
 
If what most people use is the Sharpmaker then why would a knife maker not put the proper edge on their knife to match the Spyderco sharp maker??? Why do they insist on putting an edge a few degrees different?

That is a question that has baffled me since the beginning of time in the knife world ..and make me question the moral consciousness of the knife maker themselves


If I knife maker came out with a line of knives tomorrow... and advertised the knife edge MATCHES the Sharpmaker 40 degree . Myself and others would be all over buying them..
 
colubrid said:
If what most people use is the Sharpmaker then why would a knife maker not put the proper edge on their knife to match the Spyderco sharp maker??? Why do they insist on putting an edge a few degrees different?

That is a question that has baffled me since the beginning of time in the knife world ..and make me question the moral consciousness of the knife maker themselves


If I knife maker came out with a line of knives tomorrow... and advertised the knife edge MATCHES the Sharpmaker 40 degree . Myself and others would be all over buying them..
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I'm not sure what you are trying to say. I'm not being smart. I'm just not sure what you mean. It's kind of a vague post .

I can sharpen any knife on a sharp maker. If it's 12dps or 24dps. I simply adjust my stroke. So. ?

That said. For maintaining any knife edge I free hand on a 1200 grit ceramic and strop most of the time. I use the SM for more "serious touch ups"

Are you saying CRK should set a 20dps bevel from the factory.

If so. I agree.

The Sebenza is my preferred EDC.
But it really shines after I put my carefully administered 17-18dps. No micro. Just a slight convex from the strop with a final edge of 17-20dps slight convex :thumbsup:
 
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BellaBlades said:
I'm not sure what you are trying to say. I'm not being smart. I'm just not sure what you mean. It's kind of a vague post .

I can sharpen any knife on a sharp maker. If it's 12dps or 24dps. I simply adjust my stroke. So. ?

That said. For maintaining any knife edge I free hand on a 1200 grit ceramic and strop most of the time. I use the SM for more "serious touch ups"

Are you saying CRK should set a 20dps bevel from the factory.

If so. I agree.

The Sebenza is my preferred EDC.
But it really shines after I put my carefully administered 17-18dps. No micro. Just a slight convex from the strop with a final edge of 17-20dps slight convex :thumbsup:
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yes I am saying that ALL folding modern traditional knife companies should use 20dps bevel from the factory. Not just CRK. I screwed up more knives because they don't match the sharp maker angle. Most of us (like myself and not you) could never get the correct angle on a sharpmaker by tilting the knife. Sorry but it is just to darn complicated for me. Besides that, why is that on us? We spend over $200 on a knife and no info on the factory bevel is listed. I know about the sharpie and blah blah blah.. just why don't knife makers make us aware of the bevel and help market those knives that match the sharp maker.

I wish there was a list gathered by someone that can name the make and model of knives that do match the sharpmaker 20dps bevel. I would start buying those knives. Would really simplify my knife addiction.

The Sharpmaker has been around for a long time and is what most people buy to sharpen.. only to find out they need to use a sharpie and then try to do 50 strokes only to find out they screwed up the knife. I just don't get why knife companies (not just CRK) don't make things easier?
 
colubrid said:
yes I am saying that ALL folding modern traditional knife companies should use 20dps bevel from the factory. Not just CRK. I screwed up more knives because they don't match the sharp maker angle. Most of us (like myself and not you) could never get the correct angle on a sharpmaker by tilting the knife. Sorry but it is just to darn complicated for me. Besides that, why is that on us? We spend over $200 on a knife and no info on the factory bevel is listed. I know about the sharpie and blah blah blah.. just why don't knife makers make us aware of the bevel and help market those knives that match the sharp maker.

I wish there was a list gathered by someone that can name the make and model of knives that do match the sharpmaker 20dps bevel. I would start buying those knives. Would really simplify my knife addiction.

The Sharpmaker has been around for a long time and is what most people buy to sharpen.. only to find out they need to use a sharpie and then try to do 50 strokes only to find out they screwed up the knife. I just don't get why knife companies (not just CRK) don't make things easier?
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I guess it's an experience thing. 2-3 strokes per side and I can find my edge angle. I just hit 20 years of sharpening at age 31 and finally reached a pinnacle where I can manipulate any edge .

From here it's just perfecting. Not sure what advice to give? Be it a para 2 at 15dps, Xm18 @ 22 DPS or a Sebenza @ 20-22dps convex I just say screw it and carefully reprofile or use what they offer.

All knives have a different stock thickness and a human putting on the final edge leaving room for error.

I have learned there are too many variables . So I pick my knife based on quality and proper lock up. Centering, edge and smoothness can usually be adjusted.

With all that said. Up until this pointI have passed on many folders due to edge issues so I get it.
 
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colubrid said:
yes I am saying that ALL folding modern traditional knife companies should use 20dps bevel from the factory. Not just CRK. I screwed up more knives because they don't match the sharp maker angle. Most of us (like myself and not you) could never get the correct angle on a sharpmaker by tilting the knife. Sorry but it is just to darn complicated for me. Besides that, why is that on us? We spend over $200 on a knife and no info on the factory bevel is listed. I know about the sharpie and blah blah blah.. just why don't knife makers make us aware of the bevel and help market those knives that match the sharp maker.

I wish there was a list gathered by someone that can name the make and model of knives that do match the sharpmaker 20dps bevel. I would start buying those knives. Would really simplify my knife addiction.

The Sharpmaker has been around for a long time and is what most people buy to sharpen.. only to find out they need to use a sharpie and then try to do 50 strokes only to find out they screwed up the knife. I just don't get why knife companies (not just CRK) don't make things easier?
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My sebenza could be easily sharpened with the Sharpmaker. If you look at their factory video, the knife's final sharpening is by hand using a belt, so it won't be exact to any specific angle.

If you screw up your knife on the sharpmaker, you must be doing something wrong, sharpening drunk, or have tremors :) Many years ago I scratched up a few knives on it, but no longer. I've used diamond rods to change profiles on many knives with no scratches on the flats. Now hand honing with sandpaper, that'll scratch a knife real quick if you are not careful, particularly if you don't glue down the sandpaper. Same with hand held stones. I don't do that while drinking anymore :)

I don't think most people use the Sharpmaker. In my major metro area, the Sharpmaker is only available at Cabelas. They don't stock the coarser rods either.
 
My large 21 had a bevel wider than 40 degrees inclusive so it’s on to the wicked edge instead. I’ve never really tried changing my angle with the sharp maker. I just really suck at anything freehand.
 
Here is a good video about the Sharpmaker and how best to use it. The Spyderco was the first product Spyderco ever sold. I recommend watching all four parts of the Sharpmaker series. They explain quite a bit about blades and blade grinds and edges.

 
colubrid said:
If what most people use is the Sharpmaker then why would a knife maker not put the proper edge on their knife to match the Spyderco sharp maker??? Why do they insist on putting an edge a few degrees different?

That is a question that has baffled me since the beginning of time in the knife world ..and make me question the moral consciousness of the knife maker themselves


If I knife maker came out with a line of knives tomorrow... and advertised the knife edge MATCHES the Sharpmaker 40 degree . Myself and others would be all over buying them..
Click to expand...

Sharpened by hand on a belt sander(reason for convex edge rather than V), so there is a range, due to the human factor. Ask a custom maker(or at least those I have asked)what the proper angle to sharpen their knives is and they will tell you they don't know.
Sharpmaker is the easiest affordable solution they can think to suggest, not necessarily the perfect one.
Even if they had a perfect 20 degree edge on the 1st sharpening with a sharpmaker it would begin changing-again human factor.
 
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nyefmaker said:
I have used this type of sharpening system for over 30 years. Wether it be the old vintage crock sticks ( I still have several....lol ) or the sharpmaker, the system is virtually the same, save for the flats vs round rods. For me personally, its the best available if you know how to use it. There is also not much of a learning curve. It will also not ruin your knives like some of the other systems will. I cringe seeing the rods/springs/sanding blocks, whistles ....eeeek...!!! Looks like they are sanding wood and here its a $400 knife blade. As for the systems I have mentioned, the sharpmaker is by far the best. With the older round rods, many tips would end up being rounded. With the sharpmaker, you can keep the tips factory fresh at all times.

I so need to do a video on this as its much easier to show than explain probably. Keep in mind that I am probably 90-10% CRK. I only have another brand because CRK doesnt make it.

A swipe or two on the sharpmaker will not ruin an edge. If your still in the learning stages, use the sharpie trick until you get the hang of it. Sharpie the edge and then twice each side and see where the rods are hitting. I ONLY use the 40 degree setting on my sharpmaker. I am not into all the micro bevel crap.

When you do the sharpie trick, you will see that near the belly, it will ride higher than the edge most time, so you have to slightly tilt your hand towards the right on the left rod stroke and towards the left on the right rod stroke. This will keep the rods on the blade edge where you want it to be. Just do super light strokes until you get the feel of it. left stroke slightly tilting right when close to the belly, right stroke slightly tilting left when close to the belly. One of the best things about the sharpmaker is the flats. When you finish your stroke, make sure to stop with the tip on the middle of the flats of the stones ( rods ). This will preserve the sharp point. If you keep pulling it off the rods, you will round the tip.

Since your good with freehand, you will understand the tilting of the blade in relation to the blade edge. Once your all said and done, you will be a master at this. On all my CRK that I carry, once the blade is sharp, resharpening sometimes only takes a few strokes and then its back to hair popping sharpness. You dont have to sit there and do 50 strokes per side, sometimes as little as 2 each side will do.

As for stones, I have the brown and fine stones it comes with. I also have the ultra fine stones. I 99% of the time just use the brown for very dull or damaged edge knives or the white fine stones. The ultra fine will put a mirror edge on it, which does nothing for me. Thats just for show....lol. You can reprofile with the brown stones, but it takes forever. For those jobs, I hear the diamond rods are the ticket. For detailed sharpening I mainly use the flats, for just a quick touchup, I will use the corners.

Any questions at all, just ask away. Good Luck and Enjoy....!!!
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Thanks for the guide. Very helpful. Is this the same guidance provided by Chris Reeve...”Beginning at the widest part of the blade and moving toward the tip, make a downward motion, while rolling your hand. The blade should turn away from the crock stick, as you move around the belly toward the tip.” To confirm, when you say tilt away or roll away, which way should your hand roll? For example, left rod stoke, should your hand roll counter-clockwise or clockwise? Thanks again
 
jephdub said:
Thanks for the guide. Very helpful. Is this the same guidance provided by Chris Reeve...”Beginning at the widest part of the blade and moving toward the tip, make a downward motion, while rolling your hand. The blade should turn away from the crock stick, as you move around the belly toward the tip.” To confirm, when you say tilt away or roll away, which way should your hand roll? For example, left rod stoke, should your hand roll counter-clockwise or clockwise? Thanks again
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Sounds like coloring the edge with a sharpie will help you figure out which way to go. Assuming the angle on the croc sticks is properly sharpening the rest of the edge: If you maintain that angle and get to the tip, then look at the edge to see what part of the edge has the sharpie coloring removed, that will tell you how to adjust. If, for example the sharpie coloring has been removed from the higher-end of the edge (away from the edge), that means you should turn the edge toward the croc stick. If the coloring has been removed from the very edge, but is still showing at the higher-end, you should turn the edge away from the croc stick. Hope this helps.

I sharpen freehand, not with a system, but it's the same idea in principle

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