Next project--westernized katana-like-object based on Tam's Heron Mark Sword from WOT

crimsonfalcon07

crimsonfalcon07

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Dec 27, 2010
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For those Robert Jordan fans out there, I finally got the steel in for my next sword project.



7/32" thick CPM 3V, 36" OAL, 27" blade. 6" guard, which will be brass like the dao. From the book, it's supposed to be worked to look like braid. I've got a few ideas on how to go about that, but if anyone has any suggestions, I'm certainly open. I've got some green-dyed redwood from Burl Source that I may use for the handle scales. Brass pommel planned, which I'm going to try to flute. I've got to try to figure out a leather wrap as well, to fit the "nobby leather" description from the book.
 
That looks pretty awesome so far! :thumbup:

I've enjoyed your previous work as well, especially the 3V pieces. :D
 
Crim, I may have to finally buy a blade from you ..lol I LOVE Robert Jordan, and this looks very nicely done so far.
 
I've been disappointed in the reproductions to date from the WOT. None even come close to fitting the description. The last project was, in many ways, my way of working up to this one. This will either be a one-of, or maybe one of just a handful. Heron-mark blades should be rare. I chose 3V for this project because I felt it comes as close as possible to the Power-wrought steel from the book. Nice and tough, and with Dan Keffeler's HT protocols, done by Peters, it should come about as close to "never needs sharpening" as in the book. I'll be

I think this will have pretty close to neutral balance when I'm done, which should make it pretty fast, although I guess it will be pushing 3 lbs weight when all is said and done. I cleaned up the grind a bit just now, and ordered the brass for the guard. Excited for this project to come together!
 
The way albion swords does their leather grips is stellar. Check out their vid on youtube. It's not a how too video, but you'll get the idea.
 
CF, all i can tell you is that if you make something akin to a REAL (based on the books) WOT Blade, and i can find the funds, i'll be #2 in line. I already own one of your early blades, and i've been looking for a good excuse to buy another one. If you make something that can pass for a REAL Heron marked blade, i'll make the money happen

All i will ask is that you PLEASE use something silver in place of that hideous brass crap. I HATE BRASS!!!
 
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Closest I'd be able to come is mild steel. These aint gonna be cheap though. The materials cost is more than I sell my short swords for :(
 
Hmm, so looks like I'll be going for black leather, based on the book. The books describe the leather grip on several occasions as "nobby." I looked up nobby in the dictionary, and it means fashionable or stylish. I somehow get the feeling that wasn't what RJ was going for. What do you think? Should I be looking for first-rate stylin' leather? Or do you think it's supposed to evoke some sort of pebbly texture?
 
I have seen leather handles before (don't recall where on old or repro swords/daggers) that were "knobby" in the sense that the leather strips had been compressed in patterns when wet, to create raised bumps/texture for additional grippiness once dry. Many patterns can be created - see "tooled leather"
 
crimsonfalcon07 said:
Hmm, so looks like I'll be going for black leather, based on the book. The books describe the leather grip on several occasions as "nobby." I looked up nobby in the dictionary, and it means fashionable or stylish. I somehow get the feeling that wasn't what RJ was going for. What do you think? Should I be looking for first-rate stylin' leather? Or do you think it's supposed to evoke some sort of pebbly texture?
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I'd definitely assume the latter, although imho you'd be better off deviating just slightly in this particular respect from the book and going with a textured dual wrap. I have NO CLUE what this is actually called but here's what i have in mind.

Use a thick leather wrap in a pattern a big like a Katana wrap as the first layer. This will give you the texture, then go over that layer with a thin layer of wide leather (wet) so that when it dries it conforms to the shape of the wrap under it.

I have no idea if this will work, but it sounds cool as hell and would give you a very unique, grippy handle
 
The nobby description might have been describing Rayskin in layman's terms.

Looking good so far, though!
 
Got the brass for the guard in today and started rough shaping that. Need to drill holes as well. I'm gonna mock up a handle to see if I can't get the balance down, while I finish up a few more 3V blades for heat treat. Might order more steel in January and make another one of these for sale as well, if there's interest.
 
Got the guard shaped down to final contour. Can't do any more with it until I get to final assembly other than plan. Made up a temporary micarta handle. Seemed a waste to use the maple burl, because it's getting covered in leather.



Balance point is right at the top of the ricasso, about 1.5-2 inches up. It will probably move back a little bit more after I do the final grinding post heat treat, but it's right about where I wanted it.



Oh, and if you didn't realize already, the screws are temporary, just for fitting purposes. Final construction will use epoxy and pins.
 
Too bad you don't have a smith's forge. That guard would look awesome if you had a single piece of steel with a tang hole in it
 
Got another chunk of steel headed my way, this time thinner (5/32" instead of .207-.227"), for another one of these. Might be a little thin, but I'm hopeful it's closer to 3/16" than 5/32". It's a 32nd of an inch either way. Should make for an even faster blade. We'll see when it gets here. These two will probably be the only ones of these I will make outside of a pre-paid commission.
 








Still need to polish the metal surfaces a TON and do the filework to make the guard look like braid, but it's starting to look like a sword!
 
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