Non-stainless guard

I

Ian Fifelski

Joined
Oct 4, 2017
Messages
528
Is this a sin? Does anybody use (in a pinch) carbon steel for their guards?

I am asking because I have two 3/8 thick bars of aldo's 1075. I got them for forged knives but it is also the only material I have thick enough for the bowie slot guard I want.
 
Most guards were made from iron or steel for centuries, it's certainly not a problem for a carbon steel blade, and doesn't add any real extra care consideration. Lots of us still use steel (mild, carbon, whatever) for fittings. Although it is nice to give it a blued, patina, or some kind of finish to help control oxidation.

Something that's rarely ever done, but can be advantageous is to actually HT a carbon steel fitting. Leave it much softer than a blade of course, but it helps with oxidation, and overall finish/wear considerations. On the other hand, if you're inexperienced you may run into some trouble with fitting on a hidden tang, so I'd save this as an advanced exercise.


Some guys are even using micarta/g10 for guards now, and it can look really nice, although I can't comment on the durability. I'm sure it's nothing like steel or other metals in that regard, but g10 especially should be plenty enough for a reasonably heavy use knife that's not going to be abused.
 
I do it. Agree with javand and HSC on both heat treating and finishing. Another thing about heat treating, getting into the habit of heat treating guards and fittings and how that changes the process to utilize them gets you ready for using damascus fittings that you'll want to heat treat so they etch predictably.
 
i used mostly nickel up to now, big sin :p i think people would rather have carbon steel than nickel, you should be fine.
 
For finishing should I do a forced patina? This is for "that bowie" :D This is probably a record for number of threads for a single knife. I have been busy with school which has been good in a way that it has paced me and let me think (maybe too much) about every detail.

I would like a deep etch or a forged finish. The problem is that I fit and glue everything and then shape. This is going to be a guard that smoothly transitions to the wood. So how can I fit, glue and shape everything and then do a finish on the guard?
 
you could do a mustard patina on the guard, that is pretty mild and should not hurt the wood ?
 
kuraki said:
I do it. Agree with javand and HSC on both heat treating and finishing. Another thing about heat treating, getting into the habit of heat treating guards and fittings and how that changes the process to utilize them gets you ready for using damascus fittings that you'll want to heat treat so they etch predictably.
Click to expand...

Sorry to derail a bit, but something raised an alarm for a planned project. Is it true that Damascus with out HT won't etch properly? How bad is it?
Thanks.
 
Richard338 said:
Sorry to derail a bit, but something raised an alarm for a planned project. Is it true that Damascus with out HT won't etch properly? How bad is it?
Thanks.
Click to expand...

Someone more experienced than me could answer more definitively, but as I've done test etches on knives and fittings during the process the contrast seems more defined on parts that have been hardened. I've not actually given an unhardened piece a good long etch.
 
Thanks for the heads up.
I have a piece that could end up as a pommel and maybe a ring if I have enough material, and I hadn't considered doing HT on either of them. Maybe I'll run a test first.
 
Richard338 said:
Sorry to derail a bit, but something raised an alarm for a planned project. Is it true that Damascus with out HT won't etch properly? How bad is it?
Thanks.
Click to expand...

It etches differently. There are some tricks to get the contrast up to match, although non-hardened damascus won't wear as well over time, regardless. You can etch with ferric and then finish with coffee and get good results.
 
Richard338 said:
Thanks for the heads up.
I have a piece that could end up as a pommel and maybe a ring if I have enough material, and I hadn't considered doing HT on either of them. Maybe I'll run a test first.
Click to expand...

This is 1075/15N20 etched before HT and after HT.

MEPOmRM.jpg

metCGVH.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top