On mammoth ivory...

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Dec 3, 2009
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This seems to me the best place to talk about mammoth ivory.

Tell me everything! I'd like to hear your experiences in working with it, whether it be interior, or exterior bark. Mammoth tooth for bolsters, shaping it or picking it out for handles. What are your experiences with its colorations, are different shades and styles easier or more difficult to work with?

I have a few knives with mammoth handles, I've always found them very comfortable and warm in the hand, not to mention looking great. It's always interested me what knife makers themselves have experienced and think about mammoth ivory.
 
It's pretty amazing stuff. How many items can you hold in your hand with such beauty that's over 10,000 years old and can still perform a useful purpose?

It's so interesting how the years and minerals can turn each piece into such beautiful colors and patterns, with no two pieces being the same.

This stuff comes form one of the most amazing beast that ever roamed the earth. If it could only talk think of the stores it could tell.

Here's some great information about the care and handling of ivory from the CKCA forum:

THE CARE AND HANDLING OF IVORY OBJECTS

Important things to know about ivory
Ivory - as distinguished from bone, antler or horn - includes the tusks and the unusually large or projecting teeth of animals such as elephant, walrus and several species of whale. It consists of dentine, made up of components which are both organic (to provide the capacity for growth and repair) and inorganic (to provide rigidity and strength). Identification of the type of ivory is based on the composition of the dentine and its specific growth structure.

Ivory is very reactive to its environment. It bleaches when exposed to light but the most severe changes are linked to changes in relative humidity and temperature. Low relative humidity causes desiccation, shrinkage and cracking, while high relative humidity can cause warping and swelling. Heat fluctuations induce similar expansion and contraction. These problems are particularly acute with thin ivory objects, such as miniatures.

Some darkening or "patina" is the result of the natural aging process of ivory's organic constituents. Because it is porous, ivory is also susceptible to staining. It darkens in contact with the skin or oils and can be stained by corroding metals or other colored materials.

Many liquids, including water and cleaning solutions, are destructive to ivory and should be avoided.

Handling

Handle ivory with white cotton gloves. If these are not available, wash your hands first with soap and water to remove hand oils and dirt.

Storage Conditions

The best protection for an ivory object is a carefully controlled environment, both in terms of telative humidity (RH) and temperature. Ideal conditions are 45-55 % RH and approximately 70° F (21.11°C), with low light levels, at approximately 5 footcandles. Conditions should be kept constant; at the least, extreme conditions or rapid fluctuations should be avoided.

Keeping the object in a tightly closed display case or storage drawer provides a considerable degree of buffering against sudden changes in temperature and relative humidity and is protection against dust and dirt. Dark storage also eliminates damage due to light. However, as a note of caution, avoid sunlit or spotlit display areas, closed cases where heat can build up from interior light bulbs, proximity to ventilation or heating ducts, the tops of appliances, exterior walls or cold windows. Storage drawers and shelves should be lined with a chemically stable cushioning material such as polyethylene or polypropylene sheeting. Avoid using rubber-based materials for storage or packing as these can produce unnatural yellowing of ivory.

For additional protection, the artifact may be wrapped in unbuffered, acid-free tissue paper, and stored in a sealed polyethylene (ziplock-type) bag. Well washed unbleached muslin or diaper fabric may be substituted for the tissue.

Cleaning and Repairing Ivory

Broken, friable or extremely dirty objects requiring repair, consolidation or extensive cleaning should be referred to a professional conservator.
Contact:
American Institute for Conservation of Historic & Artistic Works (AIC)
1717 K Street, N.W., Suite 301
Washington, DC 20006
(202) 452-9545
FAX (202) 452-9328
E-mail: info@aic-faic.org
 
I carved mammoth ivory for my first time, last year. Since then I've carved elephant ivory, and wart hog tusk, which is also ivory.
Clydetz gave me a Buck 112 auto with mammoth ivory scales to carve. I had full artistic freedom in the design. Never having carved ivory before, I carved Gary's dog into a piece of elephant ivory first.

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The elephant ivory was soft to carve, it wasn't polished so it wasn't slippery and not as brittle as bone. It is a warm material, with a circular grain, like wood. The only difference I noticed is that the mammoth ivory, being highly polished, was very slippery. The color was darker and the grain was harder to see. After I got past the gloss, it carved the same. There were some cracks present in the ivory scales when I got the knife, which you can see in the pictures. I had to design my pattern around these. To bring out the color on both pieces, I used colored furniture wax.

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I showed this knife at the 2012 NCCA show in Mystic, CT. At the show, I picked up some wart hog tusk. These had cracks everywhere but again, it was easy to carve. I love the cracks. These two were custom pieces I sold. The little skull on the lanyard is caved also.
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I hope my input helped.

Cathy
 
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Well- I love the stuff too and almost all my knives have it. Make sure you don't let it dry up completely if you have knives with it. I know I get stressed out a bit thinking of what could happen to all my handles if I mis-treat them and let them dry up. You have to keep an eye on it.

That said I also carry mammoth ivory and haven't experienced major shrinkage.. Just a little. Sometimes I will even leave my knife in a freezing car all night and for the most part the handles don't change after the little amount of initial shrinkage.. I find that it puffs out a bit during the summer (humidity).

I found that mammoth ivory is not likely to crack when dropped. It will dent and scratch but stays together. Though I haven't dropped a walrus ivory knife I would assume its more brittle and not as good a choice for carry. My EDC actually has walrus but I have not dropped it... yet.

Don Hanson has a ton of experience and will hopefully chime in.
 
I love mammoth ivory, bark or otherwise. An other advantage is that, instead of elephant or walrus (fresh or fossilized), you don't need any CITES permits for import and export.

Marcel
 
I hope to be able to use mammoth ivory someday so I will be following this thread. Thanks for posting the question.
 
Though I haven't dropped a walrus ivory knife I would assume its more brittle and not as good a choice for carry. My EDC actually has walrus but I have not dropped it... yet.
Don't worry about it chipping. Fossil walrus is surprisingly tough. This is something natives knew for centuries. They used walrus ivory for harpoon tips, sled runners, ice axes, etc.

Chuck Bybee
 
I love mammoth, but tend to prefer walrus as the tusk is more likely to yield a one-piece handle (versus scales). A near infinite variety of colour and texture, and each piece unique.
 
Originally Posted by Bama
Wow Don that's at least $100 in ivory you got there lol
Remember, this is only about 10% of Don's stash

Marcel

Marcel,

I found a photo online showing the rest of Don's Ivory stash:
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Jim Treacy
 
This is great everyone, thanks for putting in. Is there a particular method that the ivory attains certain colors or shades? It's always interested me the particular properties that result in the differing colors ivory comes in. Do any of you know how such colors and shades in the ivory come about?
 
The different minerals in the ground absorb into the tusk and create the colors. I am not sure if specific colors mean anything in regard to location but I bet they do. I am not a maker and don't know anything about working ivory, but I know that if you like the color you see on the outside you should try not to grind it off. There is depth of color in some ivory and sometimes the color will change the deeper you go. I don't think mammoth ivory's color goes too deep. I have only seen ivory with solid color on both sides from a Walrus.

I actually have a Hanson folder with brown bark on the outside with a little blue peaking through. We saw the potential for blue underneath and Don recently grinded a little off the top to reveal it. So I guess ivory can be worked to get some colors out to a degree. Go too deep and its gone..

BEFORE:

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AFTER:

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I love mammoth, but tend to prefer walrus as the tusk is more likely to yield a one-piece handle (versus scales). A near infinite variety of colour and texture, and each piece unique.

Roger, I totally agree but the problem with walrus ivory (fresh and fossilized) is that you can't ship it freely around the world. It falls under the CITES rules and regulations.

Marcel
 
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