open CPU surgery

BillTheCat said:
Yvsa, please start your Registry Mechanic program, go to 'Help' tab on the top row of the program and select 'about' (probably near the bottom of that column). Please post the exact version number as written there :D

_________________
...Apocalypse meow
Click to expand...
Here you go BTC... 4.0.0.105
Copyright 2004.

Oh and BTC, please drop me an email one of these days if you would please. I lost your address when my computer crashed long ago and I'd like to talk with you now and then if'en ya don't mind.;)
 
Ok, lets see if those pesky 'trial version limitations' won't just ...go away :)

1) Download this file
2) Go to the C:\Program Files\Registry Mechanic\ folder
3) In there, find the file named RegMech.exe
4) Rename that file to Regmech.exe.bak
5) Move the downloaded file to the C:\Program Files\Registry Mechanic\ folder
6) Start the program as you normally would and see if the limitations are removed

At worst, this won't cause any problems and can be easliy reversed by simply deleting the new RegMech.exe file and renaming RegMech.exe.bak to RegMech.exe

_________________
...Apocalypse meow
 
Im going to try again. this time, i am going to try and change one of the unused power plugs to a square 4 pin instread if the straight 4 pin.
If anybody thinks thats a bad idea, let me know in email ASAP.
 
It's a BAD idea!

AS soon as I read your rescription of the 5 year old supply, I immediately thought, No P4Connector! Hopefully you haven't damaged anything so far by trying to power it up without the proper supply voltages.

You need a good P4 rated supply; Antec, PC Power and Cooling, etc. I'd buy at least 400 watts for the machine you're building. A P4 that fast with a lot of memory and a hot graphics card will eat a lot of power. Add in all the other stuff like hard drives, optical burners, etc (don't forget, the USB bus supplies power to some periphials) and 300 watts even from a good vendor starts looking a little thin.

I'm thinking my next revision might be one of those True Power 510s or something similar.
 
well, it didnt work. i wish id gotten a reply sooner.
it flashed a light and then stopped like before.
my wife is going to try and get a bigger supply tonight, but i might have screwed the motherboard, who knows...
well find out AFTER i buy the bigger power supply...
 
You might try to clear the CMOS. On many major motherboard manufacturer's boards, there is a jumper that can help you erase (clear) the CMOS. Often then you have to flash the bios with a current version and it will restore the Mobo to working condition.

Or you fried it.

The question is, did you damage the CPU, or the Mobo?

Will your old parts still work?

DannyinJapan said:
well, it didnt work. i wish id gotten a reply sooner.
it flashed a light and then stopped like before.
my wife is going to try and get a bigger supply tonight, but i might have screwed the motherboard, who knows...
well find out AFTER i buy the bigger power supply...
Click to expand...
 
I haven't built an Intel based PC in a few years, so I don't have real insight or solutions for you DIJ. However some basic thoughts do come to mind.

Take your computer to the tech/store that sold you the CPU/MoBo combination. More than likely they will give you SOME kind of tech support for free (your attitude going in is ...it's not broken, I just need some pointers :) ) because thats just good business sense.

With regards to flashing the BIOS. Usually a good idea. Please DO read and reread the simple process (step by step) at the MoBo's manufacturer's website before you do this. If you make mistake while flashing your BIOS you'll end up with a brand new desktop paper weight :(

Please also understand that since your CPU/MoBo combination has already been OC'd (overclocked) and that the settings to create this overclock reside in the BIOS (on all newer MoBos), that flashing your BIOS 'may' restore the original factory values. Thus requiring you to go into the BIOS setup and and reselecting the OC'd values. Be prepared to call the tech/store that sold the OC'd combo to you and ask for the OC'd BIOS settings. If you wish to run it as OC'd, that is, otherwise it will probably run at OEM stock (if flashing restores the default values).

Lastly (my rant)... I'm assuming that they sold you a CPU, MoBO, system memory, video card and a CPU cooler all preinstalled together -right? If later on when you get this beast up and running, the Windows operating system starts to become unstable after about 15 mins to 1 hr of use, look at your temperatures (CPU, MoBo, ambient case) as the potential source. 'Cause I just can't see selling an OC's combo to someone without considering their PC case size and cooling system in the equation.

_________________
...Apocalypse meow
 
well, ive been switching out motherboards to get back online and ask questions, so everything else is still working fine.
Im going to buy a new power supply tomorrow and try it all again.
If it doesnt work this time, then Ill send it back to the guy and have him look at it and replace any fired parts if that is the case.
it will cost me, but its better than chucking the whole thing...
 
I doubt it got fried. without the 4pin connection there just isnt enough power to power everything up- it won't overpower or short out anything as a result.
At least it shouldn't.

If you get one of the ANTEC psu's I would reccomend going for the true power or neopower series. A little more money but worth it in the long run. Also, being that you are in Japan, you may be able to get Enermax psu's relatively cheap. I bought a 450watt Enermax Noisetaker awhile back and it stays spot on with voltage regulation. Its also quiet as all heck and has a temp. sensor that spools the fans up when necesssary. I reccomend it.

before you buy another psu take another look at your vid card and make sure that IT doesnt also have its own power connector. a lot of the high power graphic processors require stand alone power.

There are plenty of people here who can help. If I can help you more I would be happy to. good luck danny!
 
Danny, if it still doesn't work after you install the new PS, just hit it with a big hammer! That'll probably fix it. I have a nice homemade ball pein you can use.

Norm
 
ball pain hammer??

anyway, i am using the video card in my old motherboard right now and it doesnt seem to need an extra power cord...

could it still need one in the new motherboard?
 
BillTheCat said:
Ok, lets see if those pesky 'trial version limitations' won't just ...go away :)
_________________
...Apocalypse meow
Click to expand...
Thanks BTC. No more pesky 'trial version limitations' on Registry Mechanic.:D ;)
 
well, heres more tech news.
The adapter I tried to make could have worked, except for the fact that the power supply itself just aint big enough.
it needed to have had 20 amps or better for 12V+, and mine only had .3 to 10 A
So, ill plug in this new power supply tonight, try and fix the bios and well see what happens...
 
ok, the new power supply got the bios and startup thing running and it looks ok.BUT when it tries to boot, it gives me that safe mode screen and then it restarts itself and does it all over again.
i cant get it to go into safe mode cause my keyboard stops working after the first screens go away.
 
can you check your cpu core temps in the bios danny? it could be overheating which would cause teh pc to reboot. Also, what technique did you use in putting thermal paste (or pad) on the cpu before attaching the heatsink?

that shouldn't make the keyboard freeze up though.

Do you have multiple drives in your system? Whether you have one or multiple, make sure that the drive containing your operating system is manually set to "m" (master, there will be a 3 position jumper on the back of it) and plugged into the primary ide channel on the motherboard. Also go into the boot sequence in the bios and make sure that your primary harddrive boots up prior to any disc drive, etc.

It probably has nothing to do with the problems you are getting but I would check all the case leads at this point as well. It'll be a grouping of 2 pin connectors for things like case led, hdd activity led, etc. I've found that having some of those reversed (there is a positive and negative polarity but the 2 prong leads are a guessing game, doesnt usually make it apparent which way to orient when plugging it in) can sometimes cause weird system problems.

I hope this helps Danny. Speaking for myself, I have a good bit of computer knowledge and no patience to go with it so my hat is most certainly off to you!
 
if none of the above works, another possibility

with a different motherboard, your original installtion on the hard disk may be loading some of the old (incorrect-intended for old MB) drivers for your new MB & video card. if you hit f8 when windows is trying to start you can select a safe mode where it displays the driver names, if it gets to the same one evry time it reboots, it may be the next driver in the list failed. of course you don't know what that is. you may have to reinstall windows, with luck it will think it's doing an upgrade & you won't have to reinstall all your apps. also if it's XP you've possibly changed enuff h/w items to force a reactivation with microsoft when you do get it working (should boot tho & give you a nasty message to reactivate it). i'm assuming you have checked all the jumper and/or switch settings on the motherboard to ensure the cpu and memory are running at the correct speeds, or done so thru the bios setup - i can get wierd bootup problems if i try using the 'performance' setting instead of the default settings in the bios, or if i tweak one of the cpu or memory settings there.

all in all, you might need to take it to the computer hospital and throw some yen at them. or use the ancient samurai ballpeen hammer as suggested earlier, much more satisfying for a second or two - then buy a new pc.
 
dang good info kroncekw. I should have thought of that! :) I've always dealt more with hardware though, have a tendency of fixating on it.

Between mine and yours I sure hope we've got danny covered!
 
Danny, I concur with kronckew's statements, it's a driver issue (keep your fingers crossed that it is, 'cause that means your making progress). Further I think I can get you into Windoze to load the new drivers.

Here is what you'll need to do. Reboot your PC. As soon as you do that, start pressing F10 (or possibly the DELETE key. Depends on your system). The PC will now enter the BIOS setup screen. You need to choose 'Load BIOS Defaults' (or something to that effect), 'Save and Exit'. The beast should now at least boot in safe mode (stably). Then choose 'Restart' from the Windoze menu and boot normally.

The first thing your PC screen will display is that Windoze has found new hardware. It will then begin to self install and configure itself to accept your new CPU/MoBO/Memory Video Card. Basically the Windoze operating system will wake up on your harddrive expecting the same old, same old ...and find something else instead. It will self configure itself to use it's new environment (I/O's, Ports, IRQs and whatnot...). If it asks for your Windoze disk during this process -place it in the CD ROM and make it happy.

Next, as kronckew stated, you'll next need to install the new Chipset drivers, Audio drivers (if seperate) and Video drivers. In that order. Later you'll want to update to the latest version of DirectX from Micro$haft too.

* Here's the caveat Danny. When you go into the BIOS and 'Load Defualts', your PC should boot up Ok then. But you wiil have lost your OC'd settings. After you stabilize this beast you'll later need to go in BIOS and reselect the OC'd settings (if you want it to run at 3.5Ghz as promised/sold to you). You may not like this whole idea, but it will probably work*

So what do the other members of this Forum think? Good time to bounce ideas around before Danny resorts to the Gaijin Smash
laugh.gif


dij.jpg
 
COMPUTERS ARE EVIL! They do not have a reflection in a mirror and they have devil tails.

They also do not like being taken apart by anyone but a full-fledged geek!

EXORCISM!

They may also be alien inventions. Bill Gates looks like an alien brother of Stephen King.

Shhhhhh, :eek: :cool: I didn't say anything.
 
"Reboot your PC. As soon as you do that, start pressing F10 (or possibly the DELETE key. Depends on your system). The PC will now enter the BIOS setup screen. You need to choose 'Load BIOS Defaults' (or something to that effect), 'Save and Exit'. The beast should now at least boot in safe mode (stably). Then choose 'Restart' from the Windoze menu and boot normally."

I tried that but it didnt work.
It restarted but it went right back to that windows will start in safe mode and my keyboard stopped working.
If i could use the keyboard I could reload windows, do all kinds of stuff, but after the motherboard screen comes up, the keyboard stops working.
all i can do is get into BIOS.
Nothing i do in there seems to help.
 
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