The BladeForums.com 2024 Traditional Knife is ready to order! See this thread for details:
https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/bladeforums-2024-traditional-knife.2003187/
Price is $300 $250 ea (shipped within CONUS). If you live outside the US, I will contact you after your order for extra shipping charges.
Order here: https://www.bladeforums.com/help/2024-traditional/ - Order as many as you like, we have plenty.
is evil don't support themharbor freight
Power tools will take off more metal so as long as you're ok with shortening the usable blade life then go for it. On the plus side... if you have the skills its hard to beat a machine edge. I use a Kalamazoo 1x42 then deburr with a Fine Scotch brite wheel and finish with a leather wheel. I find the leather wheel to offer a superior edge to the paper wheel and has more give making it easier to finish the edge.
I would stay away from the worksharp, that is, unless you want to send me all your knives to get repaired after you screw them up. That 1/2 in belt is just not wide enough and will take off metal in a hurry.
P.S. The HF 1x30 moves too fast for sharpening.
Power tools will take off more metal so as long as you're ok with shortening the usable blade life then go for it. On the plus side... if you have the skills its hard to beat a machine edge. I use a Kalamazoo 1x42 then deburr with a Fine Scotch brite wheel and finish with a leather wheel. I find the leather wheel to offer a superior edge to the paper wheel and has more give making it easier to finish the edge.
I would stay away from the worksharp, that is, unless you want to send me all your knives to get repaired after you screw them up. That 1/2 in belt is just not wide enough and will take off metal in a hurry.
P.S. The HF 1x30 moves too fast for sharpening.
The WorkSharp has 3 stock belts... an 80gr, 320gr and I think 6000gr??
The coarsest is very abrasive and I've used it to put a convex microbevel on a thick carbon machete blade and the sparks flew.
But the other 2 grits aren't that harsh and don't remove too much metal. In fact, once I go through the belts, I generally only strop it to touch it up...
If there's more of a ding, I generally only go to the 320 for 2 passes max and then back to 6000 and stropping.
Once the 6000 is worn down, you can flip it over and put compound on it.
When you have a convex edge / bevel, stropping works great for maintenance on the non-super steels and that's about the least amount of metal you can move to get a solid edge back.
It just takes a bit of practice (2 test blades) to get a feel for how to stop from rounding off the tip... But after that it's easy.