I would also like info. on the rubber wheels. I am tired of regritting the paper wheels and no longer use them.
Please refer to posts 1717, 1718 and 1719 in the previous page, where cbwx34 makes a smart observation that worked for me this time. But it is going to happen again (and again...). A number of members have posted frustrating experiences with the re-gritting process and not all of us are blessed with the exact touch to work successfully with these materials (glue and powder) which can create a mess when not applied properly. I'm leery of even starting with that.How much are you grinding to be regritting so much? My set has a lot of years of use on it and I've regritted just a few times. It takes less than 10 mins plus drying time...
Please refer to posts 1717, 1718 and 1719 in the previous page, where cbwx34 makes a smart observation that worked for me this time. But it is going to happen again (and again...). A number of members have posted frustrating experiences with the re-gritting process and not all of us are blessed with the exact touch to work successfully with these materials (glue and powder) which can create a mess when not applied properly. I'm leery of even starting with that.
The rubber wheels require no waxing, no re-coating and apparently don't wear out in a lifetime (or more...) because they are designed for metal work with an high friction coefficient, a factor that is absent in blade sharpening.
I have ordered a Cratex (180 grit) wheel because I believe it will cause one problem to vanish from my life. I found very limited references about them in sharpening and woodworking forums, and all are peerless. Metal working forums don't seem to be as extremely anal as woodworkers and (specially) sharpeners are, so no info there.
And all for that for the cost of 2 paper wheels.
Later I may consider a rubber wheel in a fine grit as a substitute to the slotted one.
I certainly will post my impressions. Sporadically, as a few trips are planned for this summer.
Sir
Surgi Sharp http://www.surgisharp.com/products produces excellent leather wheels, 6" or 8" diameters leather clad face only, or face and sides clads.
Have used them for years without any problems. Mr. Mike Bellis stands 100% by his products.
Hopes this helps.
One thing I was taught early on was to make sure to remove any traces of the old glue and grit before applying the new glue/grit layer.
That is the problem for me. Getting the wheel clean. Also have not found a glue that held up well.
Get the coarsest sandpaper you can find, and use a piece of wood or metal to hold it against the wheel. (I think a little heat buildup helps).
Plain ol' white Elmer's glue has held up just fine for me.
Also in ref. to the wax issue above... I use it very sparingly, and found no need to 'wax the wheel' for each knife. If I see wax on the wheel, and/or wax is showing up on the knife I'm sharpening, I've found that to be more than enough on the wheel. When I reapply, I just rub a little on the wheel with it off... I think doing it while running adds too much.
Thanks. Yes, done that a couple of times. Even used a big coarse file. Never got a good re-grit though.
Just got the third elmers coat on (over the grit)...
Glue over the grit??? I've never done or heard of that... where'd that come from?
Let's call it the kwackster method
Does anyone offer sharpening service using the wheels? I Richard used to but I haven't seen him on here in ages.