people's favorite steels for applications

Poor S30V isn't a super steel anymore.
I know what you mean and you obviously know more than I . . .
. . . still . . . in the right hands . . . check it out :
Above M4 (whaaaaaa? ? ? ?)
Right in there between two examples of S110V
Above several steel alloys I would MUCH rather have (I don't even like S30V and here I am defending it).

anyway, back to our regularly scheduled programing.
S110V - 720 - Manix 2 - 62 RC - .030" behind the edge
Cru-Wear - 700 - Phil Wilson Custom Bow River - 63 RC - .005" behind the edge.
S30V - 620 - Michael Raymond Estrella Custom - 60.5 - 61 RC - .006" behind the edge
S110V - 600 - Mule - 60 RC - .015" -.018" behind the edge.
S90V - 600 - Benchmade 940-1 - 59-61 RC - .018" Behind the edge.
S35VN - 560 - Fiddleback Forge Kephart - 60-61 RC - .015" Behind the Edge.
CTS-XHP - 540 - Cold Steel Ultimate Hunter - 63.5 RC - .020" behind the edge
CPM M4 - 500 - Spyderco Gayle Bradley - 62.5 - .022" behind the edge
 
If I could get it I would ONLY own M4.
Failing that I would say if it doesn't tarnish or rust I'm not interested in owning it.
The only reason I have these funny stainless jobs is that was all that I could get in a knife that I otherwise wanted.

Here is an example : I just bought a Case Tribal Lock. Great knife; I like it. The handle could be fatter more like their two blade Trapper or a Buck 110 to give two examples (but I want that in all my knives).
anyway
It came with a funny slightly rolled coarse ground edge from the factory.
The angles were nice though; no complaint there.

I sharpened it up on the Edge Pro to polished and stupid sharp.
I used it VERY carefully and lightly. I opened some bubble shipping envelops, slit some plastic bags, cut some string hang tags off.

Last night I was looking at it and the whole front section of the edge 3/4" from the tip back is just as dull as _______ ! The rest of the edge is still super sharp. I have NO idea how it got that dull ! ! !

I do know that if it had been 3V, ZDP-189 or M4 it would still be sharp enough to use no matter WHAT I cut with it or what had happened to it.

That squishy stuff (SS) that they insist on putting in otherwise great traditionals just pisses me off.
I mean I carried it what ? three days with pampering and pride in use and . . .
________ !
 
since some people mentioned they really love their Wusthof knives in the kitchen, they use 4116 steel, which is fairly close to Buck's 420hc (on their website they list X50CrMoV15 but historically it's been 4116, which is also used by many German brands)

http://www.zknives.com/knives/steels/steelgraph.php?nm=4116,420hc

it's very simple old generation stainless that is fairly tough, easy to sharpen, and just shows how important good geometry and heat treatment can be
 
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s30v suffers from having a big brother, s35vn... which offers better toughness, while maintaining (or surpassing) edge retention and stain resistance

I bet 90% of people on bf will take s35vn over s30v given the choice, so the joke has some basis in fact
 
It takes a basic understanding of steels to appreciate your humor...

All it takes is a smiley face at the end of the “joke”. :)

I’d still like to see this list of all the super duper steels and the ones that aren’t. Anybody have one? :)
 
If I could get it I would ONLY own M4.
Failing that I would say if it doesn't tarnish or rust I'm not interested in owning it.
The only reason I have these funny stainless jobs is that was all that I could get in a knife that I otherwise wanted.

Here is an example : I just bought a Case Tribal Lock. Great knife; I like it. The handle could be fatter more like their two blade Trapper or a Buck 110 to give two examples (but I want that in all my knives).
anyway
It came with a funny slightly rolled coarse ground edge from the factory.
The angles were nice though; no complaint there.

I sharpened it up on the Edge Pro to polished and stupid sharp.
I used it VERY carefully and lightly. I opened some bubble shipping envelops, slit some plastic bags, cut some string hang tags off.

Last night I was looking at it and the whole front section of the edge 3/4" from the tip back is just as dull as _______ ! The rest of the edge is still super sharp. I have NO idea how it got that dull ! ! !

I do know that if it had been 3V, ZDP-189 or M4 it would still be sharp enough to use no matter WHAT I cut with it or what had happened to it.

That squishy stuff (SS) that they insist on putting in otherwise great traditionals just pisses me off.
I mean I carried it what ? three days with pampering and pride in use and . . .
________ !
You can't label all of stainless based on experience with possibly one of the worst of them all. Case Tru-Sharp surgical steel is very very soft and rolls if you breathe on it. Try a traditional in CPM 154 (last years forum knife or Case/Bose calibration). I would have recommended the Lionsteel slipjoints in M390 but due to another current thread, I've finally realised why mine held a fine edge for less time than a Victorinox. :D
 
I like stainless for an edc or light work in the yard, with a folder in VG10 for the yard and anything over VG10 in edge holding for an edc. I have a knife with ZDP189 in my pocket right now.

For a fishing knife, I prefer S35V. The edge holds up better than VG10 in the knives that I have.

For a kitchen knife, I have blades in S35V, XHP, VG10, 440C, Sabatiers in X75, 12C27, and a few stainless blades in low carbon German steel. I prefer stainless in kitchen knives.

My preference is for kitchen knives in VG10 (Tojiro), S35V, and XHP. Frankly, I don’t see much difference between edge holding in the kitchen knives in VG10, S35V and XHP - but they are used for different purposes. VG10 will hold an edge at least 3X as long as the older 440C Gerber paring knives that I have. The old Sabatier carbon steel blades had edge holding in the kitchen that was similar to 440C, in my use. I wouldn’t buy a Shun in VG10. I have a Tojiro Deba in VG10 that holds an edge for a long time, even after going through lots of lobster shells or breaking down raw chicken.

I misplaced an old Gerber Pixie in chrome plated M2 that would hold an edge forever.

For a large heavy blade used for cutting out brush or small trees, I like 5160 or properly heat treated 1080 or 1095.
 
Poor S30V isn't a super steel anymore.
I got it, and very clever. For those who don't know the reference, there are comments on the Spyderco forum (and perhaps others) of people saying they're not going to buy a knife because it "only has S30V," implying they would buy if they had "better" steel. Larrin is joking about S30V somehow being passe for some users.

I have more steels than I need. I like to check them out, sharpen, do testing ala Cedric & Ada and some other tests. For me, 90% of what's out there is very good. It's more a matter of preferences and intended usage than what's "better". Do you want/need edge retention, toughness, or a combo of both? My opinion (so likely wrong for most others) is that people seem to overvalue toughness in a folder. What the heck are people doing with their folders that requires 3V steel?

For what I do with a folder most of the steels out there are fine. I prefer a lot of edge retention. I carry K390 and Maxamet often. I have no need for these, but they're cool to have and easy to sharpen with the right tools. My most used knife is a Sage 1 (S30V). Never had any chipping or rolling. The latest steel to impress me is Spyderco's 4V. Edge retention almost on par with K390 and I believe it's tougher.

I fish. LC200N for that because why wouldn't I?
 
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I have more steels than I need. I like to check them out, sharpen, do testing ala Cedric & Ada and some other tests. For me, 90% of what's out there is very good. It's more a matter of preferences and intended usage than what's "better". Do you want/need edge retention, toughness, or a combo of both? My opinion (so likely wrong for most others) is that people seem to overvalue toughness in a folder. What the heck are people doing with their folders that requires 3V steel?
I prefer fine slicing knives where high toughness could be utilized to offer high "edge stability" through a high hardness heat treatment. That is the best use of high toughness to me. However, there is the whole market of "hard use" folders and even though I'm not interested in them that doesn't mean someone else doesn't want them.
 
I wouldn’t buy a Shun in VG10. I have a Tojiro Deba in VG10 that holds an edge for a long time, even after going through lots of lobster shells or breaking down raw chicken.
What's the issue with Shun VG-10? Not arguing - just trying to understand. I have an 8" (guessing) chef's knife that seems durable and holds and edge well. It's thinner than German knives and has better edge retention. I reprofiled it to 15 degrees. The handle feels cheap and isn't particularly good. I can keep it sharp easily on a King stone. I'm not arguing that it's great and I prefer better knives. But for ~$40 or so it's a more than adequate kitchen knife and would be a big upgrade for the average home kitchen.
 
I prefer fine slicing knives where high toughness could be utilized to offer high "edge stability" through a high hardness heat treatment. That is the best use of high toughness to me. However, there is the whole market of "hard use" folders and even though I'm not interested in them that doesn't mean someone else doesn't want them.
Get it and agree. I prefer the best edge retention I can get on a blade that cuts well. I didn't mean to insult those who like or want toughness in a folder. I'll take more toughness too. But my first priorities are good cutting and edge retention.
 
The answer among the chef community seems to be knife steel doesn't matter.

As long as the edge doesn't roll on bone they're good.

And you're supposed to constantly hone if you're making fine cuts anyway

VG10 and max would be the obvious candidates for a kitchen knife super steel. Corrosion resistance is king. But if you're in a kitchen you should be able to maintain your blade so easily that will never be a problem anyway. I think shun offers some knives in VG. Wusthof the biggest western maker of production kitchen knives uses a CrMoV steel on all their blades I think.

Not much appetite for super steel in the kitchen apparently.

Really? What about ZDP 189 and HAP-40? Aogami Super? Even BD1N for a lower end option?
 
Really? What about ZDP 189 and HAP-40? Aogami Super? Even BD1N for a lower end option?

I'm not a kitchen pro, though I am a 'kitchen hobbiest'. I enjoy making great food that is nicely presented. I cook pretty much every day and base my menu on trying to recreate things I liked at various restaurants. I bake my own bread, make my own deserts, hunt, butcher, and prep nearly all the meat my wife and I consume. I end up butching a few animals a year ranging from big deer to ducks, squirrels, and doves; and prep untold amounts of onions, garlic, potatoes, tomatoes, broccoli, carrots, cabbage, and so many other vegetables.

In the kitchen (and this has translated to pretty much every other area*) I prefer knives that are relatively soft and tough. I absolutely will not stand chipping (no one wants to eat a piece of knife steel) and prefer a knife that I can easily bring back to razor sharp with a few swipes on a steel. When it comes time to sharpen (no where near as often as most people think with such 'low end' steels if you do a good job of maintaining your edge) I prefer knives that I can easily and quickly sharpen on my waterstones instead of knives that require more time and require that I buy a different set of diamond stones. I would rather spend a few minutes sharpening my kitchen knives a few time a year than 'more than a few minutes' sharpening my kitchen knives a couple of times a year.

That being said, I don't care what the steel is for the most part as long as I can easily get it sharp, easily keep it sharp with a regular steeling, and it doesn't chip. Not rusting is nice, but not necessary, and I find carbon steels seem like they get sharper (at least to me).

*edit to add: This is in general true for my pocket knives as well. I stopped looking at more wear resistant steels after S30V, and in general prefer stuff that's even easier to sharpen than that.
 
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