Phil Wilson fillet blade vs 500+ lbs of cod

Jack,

I got my answer from Phil and he is also a striped bass fisherman. I forwarded you the info and am going to order one of his fillet knives. $260 is steep for a fish cutter, but it's only a knife... and one that I will actually use...
smile.gif


Michael

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He who has smelt the smoke is never free again...
 
jack:

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">whack up a couple of elk and several deer without sharpening the blade</font>

You can get blades that can handle that kind of heavy bone chopping without visible damage but it is not simply due to a high performance steel. Take a simple common cheap steel like 1095 with a moderate hardness and grind it fairly thick and it will be able to do that.

To get specific, leave it say about 0.05 to 0.10" at back of the bevel and sharpen at 25-35 degrees. The exact geometry that is needed will depend on how much force you intend to chop up the bones with and how you are doing it. If you are fairly forceful and/or sloppy you might even want to go a bit thicker. Similar if you are wokring in extreme cold.

For fillet blades where you are slicing and not chopping the impacts are far less stressful as the energy is much less (becuase of the lower blade mass and your reduced effort) and the bones are not nearly as hard. You should be able to grind a much thinner profile and still be able to avoid visible damage or excessive blunting.

1095 would not be a great choice for a fillet blade even though it is a great choice for a heavy bone chopper, because it is fairly weak and a thin fillet edge would roll easily under the lateral forces across the edge. It is also not very wear resistant and the tougher skins and grating bone contacts would dull it quickly. It also rusts very quickly, but you could probably work around that to some extent.

Picking out which steel is not trivial and it is complicated by the fact that steels can have varying abilities dependent on how they are heat treated. One of the things I look for in a maker is do they vary the steel selection in a logical way based on the intended use of the various types of blade.

This is a quote from the pamphlet that Phil sent me out quite awhile ago :

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">The challenge is to select the steel that has the potential for the right balance of toughness and wear resistance and to grind and heat treat it so the goal is met.</font>

He goes on to describe why he uses the steels he does for fillet blades, kitchen knives and hunters by fitting the properties that the steels have to the abilities that these blades need to have. It is worth reading.

-Cliff
 
Cliff - At my request Phil sent me that entire package and it is great information. You're right, it is an oversimplification to assume that the steel type alone cures all problems. It is not a panacea.

Phil is using 420V and 154CM for his saltwater fishing knives. With his heat treat he is able get the stuff hard enough for good edge holding without sacrificing all the toughness.

My experience with fillet knives made from higher carbon SS, that is other than say 440A, is that for the sake of edge holding they are made very hard. In some cases they're discoruagingly hard to resharpen. It makes the blades so brittle that the cutting edge dulls, actually flaking away, during use. Watching that happen right before your eyes can ruin you whole day. It wasn't until I read his material that I got some notion of why those knifes behaved that way.

It sounds as if his knives are a substantial improvement over the stuff I've been using.

 
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