Powering a Evenheat kiln? Pigtail 50amp to a 20amp?

JG Custom Metal Works

JG Custom Metal Works

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Nov 27, 2013
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It's a 22.5 KO TAP 240v. Here's the electrical specs.

Operating Voltage: 240V
Amperage: 15A
Watts: 3600W
Power Cord Plug Style: NEMA 6-20P

I have a 50 amp plug in my garage and I'm wondering if I could just buy an adapter and use it without putting my kiln/electrical system at risk. I heard that a lot of guys(with even heat kilns) just "pigtail" a 50 amp to a 20 amp and then use the 20 amp to power the kiln. I'm not familiar with this terminology or electronics in general(which I'm sure is obvious).

I'd like not to have to wire a new receptacle if possible. Any ideas/advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!
 
Not to code. Not recommended. Make friends with an electrician. They are a little off, but typically good people. The plug in sub panel is a legitimate solution for protecting the load.
 
Well, it looks like I'll have to hire an electrician in the Northeast KS area to come and wire up a receptacle. I've done some electrical work before but with something like this I'd probably feel more confident in having it done professionally. Any idea how much a job like this would run? I have a breaker in the garage.

Thanks for the responses guys, I really appreciate it.
 
Lieblad said:
If your garage breaker panel has room for another circuit, & you were to install the oven receptacle more or less adjacent, a job like that should take less than an hour. & maybe 15-25$ worth of materials.

If you need to place that oven receptacle some distance away,
Well, thats different story...

Good luck,
Get it done right, make us all happy !
Click to expand...

I have a 50ft-75ft 50 amp extension cord I made for my welder that might work
 
I'll give a basic answer to the question.

First - The oven is a resistive device. The concern with over-current draw is nil. It draws what it draws. It isn't like a motor that could lock up and catch fire of burn out by over-current.

1) A socket adapter for using different sockets and plugs may ( or may not) be found at an RV store. Even U-Haul has some.

2) The simplest solution is to make up an extension cord with 10 gauge wire that has a plug to match the existing socket on one end and a socket to match the HT oven on the other end.

3) If you really wanted to, you could put a fuse box on the end of the extension cord with the socket that had two 20 amp cartridge fuses in the lines. Something like this box with the power cord going in and out the ports:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lennox-31H1...658903?hash=item1a0ab317d7:g:ZLsAAOSwnH1WbNx9
It is basically a portable sub-feed panel. You can build it from parts for much less than the one shown, which is mainly for an example. You can mount the socket right on the box to keep it simple.

4) The other method is to use one of these (or any other suitable fuse size holder) and build the fuses into the oven itself:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GOULD-SHAWM...796947?hash=item51dee36ad3:g:RL8AAOSwmrlUvrFC
You just wire it in the incoming wires to fuse the two hot legs. You should find these at your local hardware store or on eBay.

Note - When not in use, the extension cord/panel should be unplugged from the main socket.
 
Thanks for the responses everyone, I appreciate it!

Stacey, you're the man(as usual). So basically, I'd be okay with using a 20 amp 20-6r to 50 amp adapter? I tried to find one only but haven't had any luck. I might try a local RV store. This would probably be the easiest way for me, as long as it didn't put my oven at risk. A person with VERY close ties to Evenheat actually said that a lot of guys use a "pigtail" adapter and it works fine. I'm not sure what that is but I imagine it is just a form of adapter.
 
A pigtail adapter is just a short extension cord with one type of plug on one end, and a different type on the other. It is what I was suggestion as the simple solution ... an extension cord with the needed plug and socket.
 
is it a range or dryer outlet i went to lowes years ago and got the pigtail for a dryer then used a junction box along with 20-6r outlet and closed off the box after it was all wired up for safety sake
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
A pigtail adapter is just a short extension cord with one type of plug on one end, and a different type on the other. It is what I was suggestion as the simple solution ... an extension cord with the needed plug and socket.
Click to expand...

And those are the ones that are available at RV stores? Or was that the receptacle adapters?

Also, you mentioned having a 10 gauge cord. Is that the minimum size I should use?

Thanks again Stacey. I think I'm getting close to getting this figured out. Then I'll really be ready to screw up some high-alloy steel. :D
 
You'll likely need to make your own pigtail with the proper connectors.
Why not just swap the receptacle or plug? I think you're making it more difficult than it needs to be with an adapter.
 
That 50 amp socket may be needed for a welder or dryer some day. Also, putting a permanent socket on the wall rated at 30 amps with a 50 amp beaker is not proper.

Get a sufficient length of 10-3, 10 gauge, rubber coated wire. Get the socket and plug needed to match the existing ones. The plug looks like it will be a male NEMA 6-50 and the socket will be a female NEMA 6-20. Double check those numbers, but I think they are the right part numbers.
All these should be available at Home Depot for about $30-40.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
That 50 amp socket may be needed for a welder or dryer some day. Also, putting a permanent socket on the wall rated at 30 amps with a 50 amp beaker is not proper.

Get a sufficient length of 10-3, 10 gauge, rubber coated wire. Get the socket and plug needed to match the existing ones. The plug looks like it will be a male NEMA 6-50 and the socket will be a female NEMA 6-20. Double check those numbers, but I think they are the right part numbers.
All these should be available at Home Depot for about $30-40.
Click to expand...

Okay, I think I understand now. It will work to wire both the NEMA 6-50 plug AND the NEMA 6-20 receptacle to the 10-3, 10 gauge cord? Basically just making an extension cord, right? That won't put my oven at risk? I'm on the way to Home Depot to get the stuff now.

I did something like this one time before when making an extension cord for my arc welder.

ETA I got everything and will post a pic after I get everything wired up and running. Thanks again everyone.
 
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Overcurrent protection isn't in place to protect the load when things are working properly. It is put in place to protect the load (your kiln) when things are not working properly. What you are doing will work and will not damage the load. But understand that the load wil not be properly protected and if there ever is a problem the kiln may be toast before the 50 amp breaker pops.
 
Odog27 said:
Overcurrent protection isn't in place to protect the load when things are working properly. It is put in place to protect the load (your kiln) when things are not working properly. What you are doing will work and will not damage the load. But understand that the load wil not be properly protected and if there ever is a problem the kiln may be toast before the 50 amp breaker pops.
Click to expand...

It will work great & never be a problem if we all promise to not tell insurance company about it...
 
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