Prickly Pear Cactus Scales

Buenodude

Buenodude

Joined
Apr 23, 2011
Messages
13
Just finished up putting these scales last night and would appreciate your feedback. These are the second set I made for this knife because I didn't like what I did the first time. I made these out of dried Prickly Pear Cactus and acrylic. Got the idea from Turn Tex out of Texas who make some really great looking stuff. I've got a lot of Prickly Pear around my house in NM and decided to try it. (not quite as easy as I thought it would be) I used a blank that I bought from Premium knife supply (Ebay) awhile back. Anyway I've noticed that none of you are shy about feedback, good or bad, and would like your input.
 

Attachments

  • Cactus Knife 1.jpg
    Cactus Knife 1.jpg
    61.6 KB · Views: 222
  • cactus 3.jpg
    cactus 3.jpg
    59.6 KB · Views: 317
  • cactus 4.jpg
    cactus 4.jpg
    55.3 KB · Views: 196
  • cactus 6.jpg
    cactus 6.jpg
    55.9 KB · Views: 200
  • cactus 7.jpg
    cactus 7.jpg
    58.4 KB · Views: 152
Those are incredible!!!:thumbup::thumbup:
I love the organic look.

Believe it or not, we have prickly pear cactus out here in Illinois too, they are extremely rare and are only found on Il state beach, but I've seen them before.

They remind me of a material called "C-Tek Matrix" (pic below). It's the same concept, however it has aluminum suspended in resin. However I like the prickly pear better!


Web_handle.JPG
 
the C-Tek Matrix has a great look too. Thanks for the feedback. PS love the Stratocaster too. I've still got my Fender Jaguar I bought in college in 1965
 
I'd like to put those on some hunters. Do you mind telling me how you made them or where you bought them?
Tim
 
Tim, I made these myself. Do you have access to any dried Prickly Pear in your area? I cast them in acrylic that you can get at Hobby Lobby, or somewhere similar, and then cut, shaped and buffed them up. There is actually no color in the scales them selves. They are a clear acrylic. What gives them color is the black micarta I used as a spacer in the handle. They will reflect any color you put behind them. You can buy them from Turn Tex at their website Turntex.com. They sell blanks for pen turning and knife blanks. If you want to make your own you will need basic knife making tools but you could do it all with files and sandpaper if you have a whole lot of time available. A belt sander and buffer make it a lot easier though. If you decide to do your own let me know and I'll give you the detail you will need to get going.
 
Just a comment on making neat looking scales. When casing with acrylic resins, the clear look is really nice. We all remember the "Scorpion in the block of plastic" that was so popular for a desk ornament back in the 60's ( well, maybe we all don't remember them :) )

The point I am getting at is that if you can shape and buff the resin easily to a high polish and crystal clear material....it will reverse that process due to wear just as easily. Show piece knives and novelty knives are one thing, but a hunter or kitchen knife will quickly turn cloudy or frosty as the surface receives millions of scratches.

Using a hard casting resin like an epoxy "bar top" finish is a bit better, but if the material is mostly a void ( like cactus, seed pods, etc.) it still will get a lot of wear.

Not saying don't do this, just that the surface will need re-sanding with fine grit paper and a buffing fairly often.
 
Thanks Stacy for the comments. I got the idea from some pens I was turning and applied it to the knife handle. Even the pens need some buffing from time to time and I usually don't use my pens to batton wood. I believe you're right, nice for show pieces but not great for everyday use. Unless, as you said, you're prepared to spend some time sanding and buffing. Once again, I appreciate your candor and insight.
 
Hey Kai, nice of you to drop a note. If you decide to give it a try let me know if you want some dried cactus.
 
Those and Choya Cactus have been used on handmade knives from the SW deserts for many years. The newer Resins/acrylics have really improved the look and you have done an excellent job on the whole look of that knife!

:thumb up::thumb up::thumb up: Have you thought of trying different colors like the C-Tec? Black, Blue, Red a sunburst or set mix?
 
Laurence, thanks for the "thumbs up" and as of yet have not tried any other colors. Im thinking that a transparent tortoise shell color could look interesting and may give that a try. I've done alot of cholla pens that are filled with everything from acrylic to turquoise and they have a great look too. I am concerned with the maintenance issues that Stacy alluded to on a hunting type knife and may try something a little tougher than acrylic, (if I can figure out what that is). By the way I went into your website and you make some great looking knives. Appreciate your input
 
For a few similar handle projects, I have used System Three "Clear Coat" epoxy. Very thin ( penetrates well), very clear, very tough, pretty darn hard.

I have a relative who had a truly impressive Santa Clause beard. Pure white and soft as silk. He took a job in a ship yard, where the beard was not allowed ( welding shop). The beard was braided into a round cylinder, put inside a PVC tube, and I cast it in Clear Coat. Once the tube was removed, it was made into a knife handle.

Casting Tip:
I took a section of 1.5"PVC pipe and put a rounded cap on one end ( just press fit). I drilled a 1/16" hole in the center of the cap. The bundle of beard was stuffed snugly into the tube, and a 2X1.5" reducer fitting pressed on that end. This made a funnel into the tube. The tube was held in a vise. The resin was mixed and poured into the "funnel". To get things moving, I stuck the shop vacuum hose on the bottom for a second until I could see the level drop. Once the resin made it to the bottom, a catch cup was placed below the bottom hole. The run out was returned to the top and this was repeated until the resin started to thicken a bit. The funnel was never allowed to have the resin level drop near the beard hair, so no air was trapped in the bundle. Once the resin started to thicken, a tooth pick was stuck in the hole and the excess just allowed to sit in the funnel. Everything was left to sit for 24 hours. The ends were band sawn off, and the tube ground away on a 50 grit belt. The resulting cylinder of epoxy and beard was used like Micarta.
 
Stacy, I've got to admit you made me laugh out loud. Somehow I picture this knife being passed down to the grand children and being told that this was your Grandpa's beard. On the other side of the coin I can imagine it was really great looking. I'll see if I can find some of the system 3 coat epoxy somewhere and give that a try. A big thanks for the "casting tip". I certainly appreciate your time and feedback
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top