Pro and cons Scandi grind

[EDDAKA]

I've also had my eye on the Roselli Grandfather, as in HoosierQ's picture.

Get the knife like the roselli carperter "UHC."

What a beastly scandi knife. They have a small secondary bevel, but it's not hard at all to grind them to zero bevel/convex them.

 

[5.56]

anyone got a pic of a scandi grind

Spyderco Bushcraft

 

[Adventure Sworn]

I'm just not enough of a metalurgist and/or not an expert sharpener to figure out why these knives are sharper even than the Moras.

Once again, it's back to the "done right" thing. Your helle may seem a hair superior to some Moras because perhaps the steel used by Helle is of higher quality, perhaps the angle is a bit different... maybe the heat-treat has a little more quality control. Which, of course, is saying a lot about Helle, because Moras are incredible for their cost. Small bits of attention really make a world of difference with scandi's.

For that guy who wanted a few pics, I got a few here.

 

[Adventure Sworn]

Get the knife like the roselli carperter "UHC."

What a beastly scandi knife. They have a small secondary bevel, but it's not hard at all to grind them to zero bevel/convex them.

Yeah I almost pulled the trigger on one of those a while ago, really nice knives.


Cool pics of that Spyerco, 5.56. Very unique with those black scales. :thumbup:

 

[sambo.]

i've never really thought too much about it in terms of grind, but my Mora Clippers are a lovely knife and can handle an amazing array of tasks.

and for $20? i'll take two please.

 

[rinos]

they just work best for me secondary micro bevel will help scandi grind to last longer

 

[StretchNM]

Yep. You never can beat a Mora for price and functionality. And the Clipper feels good in the hand.

 

[KeithAM]

I have a Mora 760, which I sharpened yesterday and am quite impressed with: it is among the sharpest of my extensive collection of cheap knives.

However, I like to seek out the opinions of others to take advantage of their experience, and that is why I posted. One of the things that I like about BF is the very low signal-to-noise ratio of the answers, and that fact that there are very few people whose courtesy leaves something to be desired, e.g., whose answer is a curt "Use the search function" or "Google" and can never bother to post a link to the answer (one of my pet peeves).

So thanks to those who answered, but I would ask if someone would care to comment on the usefulness of a scandi-ground knife for such tasks as general field or camp use, or skinning, and if one was forced to carry only one knife (whoever heard of such heresy ) as in a survival kit, if it would be the best choice of grinds.

I apologize--I did not mean to offend. Bladeforums exists so people can seek opinions as you have done in this thread. I'm glad you have a Mora to test others' observations.

Of the Mora/scandis I have, unless it's dedicated to woodcarving, I've generally used a secondary bevel or convexed the edge.

 

[me2]

Seems like most blades of this style are ground with a bevel in the 10 degree range, per side. How does a knife like this compare to one with say a full flat grind and a 10 deg/side secondary bevel? I presume it would be weaker, but cut better and sharpen faster, though I don't have any full flat grind knives to try this out on. Would it be too weak work in wood like a Mora?

 

[cramsey3006]

Yep. You never can beat a Mora for price and functionality. And the Clipper feels good in the hand.

I think that the Clipper has the best feel in hand, compared to any other knife I've tried. They got it right with that one. :thumbup:

 

[jiggybaw]

My Moras are regrind either full flat or full convex.
IME this is great improvement as now I can actually sharpen them in the field and they cut much better this way.
In fact I think that scandi grind is half finished knife.
No offense scandi fans.

 

[hardheart]

Seems like most blades of this style are ground with a bevel in the 10 degree range, per side. How does a knife like this compare to one with say a full flat grind and a 10 deg/side secondary bevel? I presume it would be weaker, but cut better and sharpen faster, though I don't have any full flat grind knives to try this out on. Would it be too weak work in wood like a Mora?

If the final edge angle is the same, then the scandi grind will be stronger. The primary grind is more acute, with less metal above the edge bevel. The scandi would require more force to push through thicker material, again because it has a more obtuse grind higher up the height of the blade. Cutting ability at the very edge would be identical since the geometry immediately above the edge is identical. Sharpening a scandi requires removing metal from a larger surface, but also requires less effort to control the angle. Speed is going to vary with the user and no definite trend.