Quenching oil question

D

DaQo'tah Forge

Banned
Joined
Aug 26, 2002
Messages
1,333
Hi! My name is DaQo'tah.

I'm a very new bladesmith. In fact, I am currently working on my very first knife forged from 52100 steel. I'm told that I need to heat treat my blade with an acetylene torch, quenching it in Texaco Type "A" quenching oil.

There is no Texaco gas station in my home town, so I'm wondering whereabouts does a person acquire this type of quenching oil?

Is there a website or a knifemakers supply that carries Texaco Type "A" quenching oil?
 
I think texaco type a is basicallly mineral oil, you can get vet grade mineral oil locally I am sure, other wise drive up here to Fargo, and I think Fleet Farm has big buckets of it. I don't know where to get the texaco type A, but a lot of people including myself just use olive oil, or veggetable oil to quench their blades in. Any light weight oil should work well.
Kyle Fuglesten
 
Oil distrubutors sell quenching oil in 55 gal. drums. Chevron bought Texaco last year which may change what Tex offers since Chevron also makes quenching oil.
 
The Plot thickens...

I guess what I'm really asking is,,,"What store do you guys, who heat treat your own knives, walk into to get more quenching oil?"
 
That's the problem, it's usually only available in 55 gallon drums. For many serious knifemakers it's worth the exense to buy a drum and have it shipped to you or pick it up from a shipping terminal. That way you have a quenching medium that's the same from knife to knife and you've decreased the number of variables that can affect the outcome of your heat treat.

A reasonable alternative is to use hydraulic fluid, which also is a light grade mineral oil with flame retardants added and can be readily found in five gallon buckets. I've found it at Sam's Club. Or if you have a source, you can collect used hydraulic oil probably for free.

Veterinarian grade mineral oil has already been mentioned. Vegetable oils, which I use, works fine as previously mentioned. I have some buddies that only use transmission fluid.

I realize you are trying to duplicate the knifemaking process as closely as possible to Ed Fowlers video. If I remember right one of the knife supply companies may carry a commercial quench in smaller amounts. I'll have to look through my catalogs because I don't remember which place had it.
 
If your wanting to get close to the same quenchant as Texaco type A, contact your local chevron oil distributor, and tell him you want a 5 gal. bucket of chevron super quench. It has the additives to absorb heat and keep the fire down, and it does a fantastic job on quenching 52100.

Good luck

Bill
 
Hi this is DaQo'tah

What is Veterinarian grade mineral oil?

Do they pump it out of the ground?...Does it grow in a field?

How come a person can drink it and make knives out of the same stuff?, (Thats like saying a Floor cleaner is also a good icecream topping?)

I know where to get tons of hydraulic fluid both new and used...I will have to think more on this question...

Come this next week, I will call the Oil guys (Chevron and Texaco) and check on what they can get me, but the idea of little old me, bringing home a 55 gal drum?...well...I dont know if the old 72 Pinto is up to that kinda hauling...

If its true that both Type A Texaco and Hydraulic fluid are just a type of Mineral oil, then I might just use some of that at first.

sound like a plan?
 
Mineral oil is a funny thing. It is petrolatum, a petroleum product. In it's purest refined form it is used as a laxative and you can buy it at the grocery store for that purpose. Another form of mineral oil is good 'ol petroleum jelly. Another is parafin. It comes in many different grades and forms from industrial to medicinal. Veterinarian grade was mentioned because it tends to come by the gallon and usually availble at Farm & Feed stores. You don't give a constipated Holstein just a tablespoon of mineral oil!

As has been said, a lot of makers use various quenches to good effect. It's up to you to decide which you want to use. If you can get used hydraulic fluid readily then I would certainly try it, but if you want to duplicate Mr. Fowlers methods as closely as possible you may want to round up one of the commercial products. It sounds like you live in a fairly industrial area so I wouldn't think it would be too hard to find some. I think you are begining to see that there are as many different styles and ways to make knives as there are knifemakers (and steels for that matter) and no one way is the right way. What works for you, based on testing your knives, is the right way.

What you have to realize is that many different substances can be used as quenches, ranging from water and brine (not recomended for most knifemaking applications) to vegetable oils (olive is great) to various mineral oils (hydraulic is common) to the commercially formulated quenches you are looking for.

I have to say thanks to Bill, I may have to try and round up a 5 gallon bucket of the Chevron Super Quench since I didn't realize it was available in the smaller amounts. I really like using vegetable oils because, well they just seem friendlier than petroleum products, but I don't turn my nose up at them. I've had pretty good luck with Wayne Goddard's Goop quench, which is a mix of lard, parafin and hydraulic fluid or ATF and want to play around with it some more also.
 
Hi this is DaQo'tah

Man!,,,I love this website!

I ask a question that I have trouble with, and BANG! I get an answer,,,and I also get good advice,,,and I get the history of what others have tried,,,,this is a great site!
 
I just posted what I am going to write again, don't know where it went so if you see it twice I apologise.

Veterinairy Grade mineral oil used to come in two forms, heavy and light. I tried to check it out years ago and came to a dead end, this is because Veternairy science is working on animals and not hardening blades, they sing to a different tune.

When you order oil, ask for Texaco Type A or an equivalent oil. They can go to their specification sheets and compare the qualities of both oils, communicate it to you and you will have a better idea what may happen when you use it.

If you seek a performace goal for your blades, you will get where you are going a lot quicker when you are able to eliminate as many unknown variables as you can. This is only one, but it is a big ONE.

Good luck and take care
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top