Question about my 172 Mayo Buck ?

[fewpop]

Hey all
Well I'm sure you've heard this before: "I have gobs of knives and I just got my first Mayo Buck 172, and I can't believe I just found this knife!"
I really like this knife. It is a great EDC, and scary sharp. I just got it from a fellow forumite on BFC. Great deal. I've been irresponsibly ignoring all my other blades since this one arrived.

I love the way this knife comes together. This design should be the Buck 110 for the current young generation IMHO. (I have an early '70s 110 I bought new and still love).

I decided to take the top horns off after I saw a pix of this having been done. It is a fine design out of the box, but I like it better with the top guards sanded flush. I may try to add 3 finger grooves later in the guard area. While I was set up for sanding, I also took the "sharp" edges off of the handles for a little nicer feel.

Well, now to my question: is there any reason not to replace the nylotron (I think) washers with phosphor bronze washers? The action is fine, and since I took it apart to alter the horns, the blade is perfectly centered after I reassembled. Before, it was about 65/35 centered. I think the pivot screw was not tight enough.

Also (if I still have your attention), I heard somewhere about a "stovetop" heat coloring method for the ti handles. Is this feasible for a novice ti treater? Any thoughts on flaming the handles that would be most appropriate for beginner flamers?

Much thanks for reading this windy post, and any nice thoughts you might share. - pix included of my new "baby"

 

[SharpNJ]

Nice job! How'd you get rid of the top horn? I agree that it looks/feels better without it.

 

[srtungate]

Looks good. Thanks for sharing pics.

 

[fewpop]

Nice job! How'd you get rid of the top horn? I agree that it looks/feels better without it.

Thanks for the positive comments. I used my Delta 1"x42" belt sander with 240 grit belt and finished with 400 grit belt to grind off the top horn. Slow and easy with a light touch worked for me. Very light grinding with 400 grit smoothed up the outer edges. I love this knife. Can't decide whether to heat color the handles or pursue anodizing in blue.

 

[wwells20]

fewpop, nice! I had one (i really can't believe i gave it away, and to someone who doesn't even know what he has ) what i did was right in front of the horn, i dipped down into the handle for a thumb-rest. i had to cut down into the blade as well. i also dropped the tip of the blade down about 4 mil. starting at the opening hole. also took a little of the belly out. if i had it now i would recruve too.

I do like the work you did on the horn though.

Walter

 

[fewpop]

fewpop, nice! I had one (i really can't believe i gave it away, and to someone who doesn't even know what he has ) what i did was right in front of the horn, i dipped down into the handle for a thumb-rest. i had to cut down into the blade as well. i also dropped the tip of the blade down about 4 mil. starting at the opening hole. also took a little of the belly out. if i had it now i would recruve too.

I do like the work you did on the horn though.

Walter

Thanks Walter
Wish I could see a pix of yours...guess you do too
I'm pretty uncertain about how to proceed with flaming, and don't want to screw it up, so I'll hang loose and hope to get some info on that around here somewhere. One other thing that I meant to mention earlier: after I finished sanding/grinding on my belt sander, I finish-sanded the edges using a round 3/8 white ceramic rod. It is quite handy for addressing the radial curves of the mayo handle and is slow and therapeutic hand labor. Might also be able to use the sharpmaker triangle rods for this chore, but I find the round rod to be less likely to produce unwanted scratches.

 

[Don M]

Nice job, fewpop. Just one question - how well does the finish of the 400 grit belt blend in with the original bead blast? I am considering doing this, although perhaps not to the degree you did, as well as round off the corners of the handle slabs a little.

 

[tom mayo]

a propane torch works best for coloring, but BE CAREFUL not to cook the detent ball, pretty sure its 440c and if it gets very hot it's toast!!


Funny thing about frame locks.........and I dont know why this is, but if you have your knife pivot snug and the blade doesnt sit in the middle perfectly, GENTLY push the blade in the direction it is off center on (I know this is contrary to logic-but it works) with the blade open and it will correct itself.

this works on expensive customs as well as the buck knives.


and often, doing this will make it necessary to tighten the pivot a tad.


I am not sure what the phsics is behind this, but believe me, it works

Many years ago I was shown this trick by a very well known knifemaker.....

 

[fewpop]

Nice job, fewpop. Just one question - how well does the finish of the 400 grit belt blend in with the original bead blast? I am considering doing this, although perhaps not to the degree you did, as well as round off the corners of the handle slabs a little.

The areas I sanded with the 400 belt are just the spine side and edges. I would have to say that they blend in fine, but are not as rough as the bead blast. I would not use that grit belt on the sides or main areas of the frame slabs and expect it to match the original finish unless I did all the surface areas, and then they would match, but all be smoother, i.e., 400 grit smooth.
Actually for rounding just the edges, I think you'd find that a grey or white round ceramic rod would work fine and not risk oversanding like the belt can do. If you use the belt, I definitely recommend keeping the spine side and edges in the same directions as the belt...in other words, hold the stock parallel to the length of the belt and not perpendicular to it.
Whatever you do...take your time, use a light touch, and check progress often and don't overheat the stock. Let me know how it turns out.

 

[fewpop]

a propane torch works best for coloring, but BE CAREFUL not to cook the detent ball, pretty sure its 440c and if it gets very hot it's toast!!


Funny thing about frame locks.........and I dont know why this is, but if you have your knife pivot snug and the blade doesnt sit in the middle perfectly, GENTLY push the blade in the direction it is off center on (I know this is contrary to logic-but it works) with the blade open and it will correct itself.

this works on expensive customs as well as the buck knives.


and often, doing this will make it necessary to tighten the pivot a tad.


I am not sure what the phsics is behind this, but believe me, it works

Many years ago I was shown this trick by a very well known knifemaker.....

Wow ...what a pleasant surprise to have some input from Mr. Tom Mayo himself. Thank you sir. I've been collecting and intriqued by knives for over 40 years, and honestly, the Mayo designs are resonating a harmonic chord all through my bladaholic brain receptor sites. I really like your work, and plan to save up for a full blown Tom Mayo knife. It is great to see your collaboration with Buck producing so much enthusiasm in the blade lovers community. It is good for Buck, which IMHO, is an American Icon, and it is good for a younger (than myself) generation to have a link to quality and design excitement with an American heritage name like Buck teaming up with a legendary knifemaker. Truly the best of the past and present by creating a knife that spans the generations and is also a sterling example of form and function. My hat's off to Buck and to you Mr. Mayo.

Oh, and thank you for the input on flaming. Do you have any thoughts on substituting phosphor bronze washers for the stock ones?

 

[wwells20]

damn, after reading this, I'm gonna "REPO-my-MAYO"!

 

[tom mayo]

bronze washers work great, if I could get a good supply at at reasonalbe price I might switch over


BTW-The Buck crew are some of the best people I have ever met in my life.

It is an honor to be a part of their team!!!

 

[ABN]

damn, after reading this, I'm gonna "REPO-my-MAYO"!

Walter, IIRC you got that Mayo for $99 new, right? I can't believe you gave it away!

...

Fewpop, great job on dehorning your Mayo. Please post more pics when the flame job is done.

 

[fewpop]

Walter, IIRC you got that Mayo for $99 new, right? I can't believe you gave it away!

...

Fewpop, great job on dehorning your Mayo. Please post more pics when the flame job is done.

Thanks for the nice words ABN.

A question occurred to me today, so I thought I'd post it in this string:
Has anyone here tried gun bluing on titanium knife handles like the Mayo Buck? Just wondering what the results might be?? Also was talking to someone who does powdercoating, and was wondering if anyone has tried that on something like the Mayo Buck or other metal framelocks?? Any thoughts to share???

 

[lambertiana]

a propane torch works best for coloring, but BE CAREFUL not to cook the detent ball, pretty sure its 440c and if it gets very hot it's toast!!


Funny thing about frame locks.........and I dont know why this is, but if you have your knife pivot snug and the blade doesnt sit in the middle perfectly, GENTLY push the blade in the direction it is off center on (I know this is contrary to logic-but it works) with the blade open and it will correct itself.

this works on expensive customs as well as the buck knives.


and often, doing this will make it necessary to tighten the pivot a tad.


I am not sure what the phsics is behind this, but believe me, it works

Many years ago I was shown this trick by a very well known knifemaker.....

WOW! I just tried that on my 172, which was not centered. I stress the past tense of the not centered part. Thanks for the hint, Tom! It did not loosen up any.

 

[wwells20]

Walter, IIRC you got that Mayo for $99 new, right? I can't believe you gave it away!

...

Fewpop, great job on dehorning your Mayo. Please post more pics when the flame job is done.

ABN, yes! picked it up for 99.99 at Gander Mtn. gave it to my buddy (non-knife nut) I can get it back anytime. He does'nt care. I was just trying to thin out the pile-o-knives! Bad judgement....

 

[DaveH]

I had a Ti Salsa done by SCrebel, he used a torch and then polished the TI, Colors came through pretty well.

I tried ot on annother Ti Salsa I had on the gas stove top. it took forever, propane is the way to go. Oh and is left bead blast the color is subtle. Bring the Ti up to polish first then heat.