Question about the GIB.

Joined
Dec 1, 2016
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So I am going to build a GIB. Kind of a dumb question but what holes need to be tapped. Obviously The idler block but as far as the others what should be tapped and which holes would be better with just a bolt and nut? Or am I better off just tapping all the holes?
 
Pretty sure there's a diagram that lets you know. If not theres a build along on youtube i believe the guys name is tyler johnson. Ill see if i can pull it up for you

ETA heres the video
 
The grinder I built is based on the EERF grinder plans (which is basically what the GIB is) Some of the changes I made were to make the main upright taller so the contact wheel arm is parallel to the tool arms. This improves tracking. Also, I combined the plates that form the left side of the two tool arm pockets into one large plate. This way, the tool arms are aligned vertically, as opposed to the offset configuration of the GIB. I also made accommodations for a variety of tension setups- spring, gas shock, and gas shock with cam over tension release. The last option is pretty awesome, as it allows you to change belts without having to hold the arm down against shock tension. The plans are hosted for free on my FB page, there is a post pinned to the top. You just need to give the plans to a water jet shop and have them cut it out of 1/2" plate. Also, all the holes that get tapped are sized for that, so you just need to clean them up, and tap away. (mostly on that tool arm pocket plate I mentioned earlier.) Good luck!
 
If you haven't already ordered the kit, I highly recommend using Kevin's plans, and finding a water jet shop. You will end up with twice the grinder, and probably at a cheaper price to boot.
 
you should also check out the OSG Sayber grinder. It's an open source grinder that Dan Comeau did. If I had it to do over again, I'd probably make his, with the cam over function that's on mine. Here's the link to everything you need to know about the Sayber. http://sayberosg.com/forum/index.php
 
I took my GIB base and upright to a professional welder and explained I needed it perfectly perpendicular.

$30 later it was done and perfect.

Worth every penny
 
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