Good question(All JMO). Personal preference, I guess. IMO, its the best way to do a convex knife. The bevel makes the edge stronger, easier to sharpen, and prevents a lot of the scratching that happens when you lay a zero'd blade on coushined sandpaper. I've always prefered my users that way. Sharpening is a lot faster, and unlike bevels on Scandi's, the steel doesn't have to be rethinned for a long time with convex due to beveling.
I don't like grinding them zero, I don't like sharpening zero ground convexes, and I don't want to warranty zero ground convex edges. I don't like appleseed grinds. I grind my bevels thin, and use a small bevel on them. You can sharpen them like a convex, or, do like Dylan and Scott Gossman and sharpen them with stones. (Scott does edge bevels also, major influence there.)
Its very easy to burn an edge grinding to zero. Probably be an easy thing to avoid after a few, but I don't like that aspect of it at all. I want all that martensite right where it is, and don't like risking that. If I had a VFD I could just tune the machine down so low that heat wouldn't be an issue I guess. Another good argument to go ahead and bite that bullet.
A lot of convexes are so thick that an edge bevel would ruin their performance. Khuks for example. Mine are thin enough that they work with a bevel. They still won't wedge in wood like a flat grind, they're stronger than that same flat grind, and skin like a convex. Thin flat grinds have bevels too. They're not zero'd.
I also never got pretty professional results with any of my personals that I zero'd IMO. The blades always just looked scratched to hell. Usually if i've done one I like, the edge just formed itself during hand rubbing the blade. Then I think they looked good and I'm doing more of those now.
