Question on a Leather 117 Brahama Loose Pommel and Leather Conditioning

Vaporstang

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I recently purchased a 117 Brahama with leather handle from the bay. It arrived December 28th. I should have done a better job of inspecting it, but with distractions of family in town, the Holidays, etc., I did a quick look over and set it aside. Tonight I took it out and was looking it over and realized the pommel has some play. The pommel does have a "set" pin in it that looks like it will keep the it from rotating. I don't know if this play is normal for this knife? There is a "button" at the end of the pommel that I assume is a press fit, but perhaps is threaded and could be tightened (I didn't want to mess with it too much before asking here).

Can anyone tell me if there is anything that can be done by me? Should I return it? Send it in to Buck for repair? Is this normal for this model?

The box is marked "Blemish". I hope a physical defect is not considered a blemish. Thanks!

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I don't think it should be allowed to remain loose, so I would tighten it. The "button" at the end of the pommel is threaded. I just slid a small screw driver in the the lanyard hole on that button and loosened it and tightened it again. As with anything in life, try not to overdo it. Make it snug. Perhaps Blue Loctite can be used to keep it secure, but lets see what others say before trying that.
 
Thanks for the info, I feel much better now! I was afraid to try too hard turning the button without know if it was supposed to turn. I do have Purple Loctite on hand, which is low strength. But like you said, I will wait for others to chime in. Again, feeling much relief that the end button is threaded.
 
Tighten that little button as BuckShack stated. I did it on my 119 model (guard was loose) and it worked great. Chances are the leather has dried/shrunk just a bit since assembly and it just needs snugged up.
 
yep as everyone else said. I use teflon tape sometimes instead of loctite. works the same way. holds screwed tight. just less wait time.

off topic but caught my eye......hope the Ebay seller give you a good deal and let it be known in their listing they were reselling a factory blem.
 
Tighten the screw and then get a quart of neatsfoot oil and soak the whole knife for a week or so to condition the leather. When that's done, wrap it in a paper towel to soak up excess until there's no residue left. The leather is drying out and just tightening the screw isn't going to solve the problem.
 
Thanks everyone! It did tighten up. I was waiting to condition the leather until I made sure that it was not defective. I will do that today or tomorrow. I do not have any neatsfoot oil, but I might try some glove oil followed by leather conditioner.

yep as everyone else said. I use teflon tape sometimes instead of loctite. works the same way. holds screwed tight. just less wait time.

off topic but caught my eye......hope the Ebay seller give you a good deal and let it be known in their listing they were reselling a factory blem.
Yes, the item was listed as a blemish (although I do not know what that is). I think I got it for a decent price as a factory blemish, but am not an expert on this model (obviously) or Buck fixed blades for that matter. I might try the teflon tape idea, that might be a little less messy and more convenient. Thanks!
 
So just for my own curiosity. Will Buck do repairs on a knife that is marked and sold as a factory blem? Most companies will not. It is as is with no warranty.
 
The knives aren’t marked. Just the boxes. The blemishes I’ve seen are so small they could have just been sold as normal. They still have a warantee.

It just occurred to me these Brahma knives are begging for handle upgrades if they come apart that easily. I’m going to keep an eye out for some antler pieces.
 
Tighten the screw and then get a quart of neatsfoot oil and soak the whole knife for a week or so to condition the leather. When that's done, wrap it in a paper towel to soak up excess until there's no residue left. The leather is drying out and just tightening the screw isn't going to solve the problem.

Thanks again everyone. It is tight, I've adjusted the pommel, and conditioned the leather with a several of treatments of glove oil and leather conditioner. It looks and feels much better. However, it seems like it has dried out some already. So I have some neatsfoot oil on order. I will give that a try. It looks like a product I can you for other leathers as well.

I have to say that I really like this knife.

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Use neatsfoot oil sparingly.

Why? It's animal based, so when it's cold out it looks weird. I have a plastic elongated bowl I just let them soak, it'll only soak up what can hald. If needed repeat. I soak leather from WWII in it and have never had a problem with it... The only thing I could see is if the leather is highly deteriorated, the oil might weaken folds or joints...
 
These, too, are often highly alkaline and are harmful to leather products. ... NEVER USENeatsfoot Oil: One of the most deceiving leather conditioners on the market isNeatsfoot oil. For years this product has been hailed as a successful moisturizing product for leather, however, it continuously has disastrous results
 
Some articles online.

Leather Maintenance Myths & Care Tips
There are several claims for leather cleaning and conditioning solutions that are simply untrue — yet they continue to spread either by word of mouth or through internet searches.

We at Leather Honey are experts on leather care and we’re here to tell you that many of these claims are not only incorrect (and admittedly a little amusing) but they also risk having a reverse effect and actually end up doing more harm to your leather than good!

WHAT NOT TO USE ON LEATHER GOODS!
NEVER USE an All-Purpose Cleaner: One of the biggest mistakes leather owners make is spraying their leather with an all-purpose cleaner. We understand — “all-purpose” certainly indicates that the cleaner would be safe to use on leather. How is one supposed to know that most all-purpose solutions have a high PH level and that alkali is damaging to genuine leather?

NEVER USE Baby wipes: These are also commonly misused for cleaning things non-baby related, including leather. These, too, are often highly alkaline and are harmful to leather products. We strongly encourage you to limit baby wipe usage to its intended purpose and refrain from wiping down your leather furniture, apparel or anything else with baby wipes.

NEVER USE Neatsfoot Oil: One of the most deceiving leather conditioners on the market is Neatsfoot oil. For years this product has been hailed as a successful moisturizing product for leather, however, it continuously has disastrous results. Leather owners are always confused because their Neatsfoot oil applications are only making their leather more brittle. The reason this happens is because Neatsfoot oil is rendered from cow shin and foot bones. This formula tends to oxidize and have a negative effect on leather over time.

NEVER USE Mayonnaise: A surprising common attempt at a do-it-yourself leather conditioner is mayonnaise. Not surprising are the results of slathering a leather couch with a condiment meant to be used on a turkey sandwich. Mayonnaise stains leather! It also contains oils that penetrate into the leather’s surface but do not absorb. This leaves an unpleasant texture and unsightly appearance.

NEVER USE any Food Products: Additionally, food products on leather will eventually lead to bacteria and mold build up (yuck!). We encourage you to avoid using kitchen condiments as leather cleaners or conditioners. This includes vinegar, olive oil, flaxseed oil and butter — these products are great on potatoes, not on your leather jacket. Your nice leather couch may end up smelling like a salad.

NEVER USE any Oil: Oils are tricky. The thick, creamy-like substance sincerely gives the impression that they would make great leather conditioners. However, the concept fails time and time again. Some people still claim that mink oil works as a leather condition. Mink oil is a product made from the fatty layer under mink skins and it will work as a leather conditioner butonly for a short period of time. An application of mink oil will moisturize and replenish your leather but, like Neatsfoot oil, it will eventually oxidize and harden your leather
 
I'm just repeating what's on the forums in the sheath makers section.
 
Says on your link not to over apply. Like I said, use sparingly.

The instructions given by Al Stohlman specifically tell you how to apply NF oil, how not to overapply NF oil and the benefits. Al felt like NF oil pentrated all layers of the leather the best. Which according to my impression of migration would mean it "migrated" the best. He felt like Lexol was more of a surface conditioner. This information is available in Volume I. I am not disagreeing with him on Lexol, but I think that is a factor of application method. Apply enough Lexol with a sheepskin swatch and it will go all the way through. Apply NF oil or Lexol with a flannel and it won't be as obvious
 
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