I would like to know if anyone has made there own take apart 110 hunter? I picked up a beat up 110 off ebay, I was going to fix it up, but the blade is bent, over sharpened, the brass has deep nicks in it, I was thinking that it can be my project take apart knife. I got it apart, now I need to find pivot screw, stand offs. Thanks for any info. Rich
BF member @tiguy7, has posted in many threads, maybe he'll see this and respond. Here's one to start you off. https://www.bladeforums.com/threads...-show-look-at-the-date.1662550/#post-19015328
The modification that I want to make to pivot post in my take apart 110 requires a square edge on my slot wheel. If you look through the slot of this wheel, you can see that it is quite worn. I need to install a new wheel. The knob nut that holds the wheel on the threaded shaft is frozen. I have tried penetrating oil. If I knew where to get a replacement nut, I would cut the thing off with an angle grinder.
Thanks pjsjr, stated working on the 110, got a donor 110 lt using the blade and lock bar , 110 lt blade has a bushing and the lock is narrower on the blade , bushing is 1/8 id x .218 od , now I need to get a pivot bolt ,bolster bolts, thank again Rich
The wheel turns counter clockwise as viewed from the top, so the spindle must have a right hand thread.
I actually clamped the wheel in a large padded vise and put a long strap wrench over the knob nut. The nut star has 7 points, so I can’t put a large wrench on it.
Rich, I know nothing, tiguy7 is the one that has the knowledge and experience. I just marvel at the posts he makes with the tools and fittings he uses...of course the knives are spectacular.
I finally got the old wheel off. Here is picture of the old and new wheels back to back. The old wheel has a rubber backing, and the pink abrasive is just about gone. The new wheel is coarser, has no rubber backing, is larger in diameter, but has the requisite square edge. New wheels are about 7mm thick. The work is brought up to the wheel from the underside. A strong light shines through the wheel from above. The grinder guy looks through the wheel from above and can watch material being removed. The German name for the “view grinding wheel” is Sichtschleifscheibe.
Here is a picture of the old and new wheels. The pink one has rubber on the back (top). The large wheel looks the same on both sides, so you get 2 cracks at a nice square corner.
One of the jobs you can do with a slot wheel grinder is chamfer the ends of your Allen bits to improve insertability. This bit is 2.5mm or about 0.098” across the flats. The old wheel will still do this operation.
This is how I shaped the pivot post on the take apart Aluminum 110 to accept Selector (old style) blades. I start grinding on the slot wheel grinder with the pivot post in the handle in the 6 o’clock position. I also mark the post with a pencil where it protrudes (into the center of the handle) so I know how far to run the slab operation toward the head of the post. Then the post is ground, off the knife, to its final shape (and here reinserted in the handle). The fit is checked visually with the left handle pulled back. A Selector blade is placed in the reassembled knife. The last picture shows which part of the pivot post is in contact with the blade. Because of the octagonal head on the pivot post, the flat spot can be positioned at 12, 1:30, 3, 4:30, 6, 7:30, 9, and 10:30. The only position that works for Selector blades changes is 6 o’clock.
I should mention 2 things in connection with the above pivot post modification. The post doesn’t have to be modified to use the Selector blades. It just hastens the exchange. After the post is modified, you can still use non-Selector blades. It just involves removing the post to make the switch.
I have made several blades for Selectors and they were all made with the blade anchor round. Then when I made a new 'post', actually pivot pin the ones I used were round. DM
What is a round blade anchor? What does your new post look like in cross section? How do you slide a slotted blade onto a round pivot pin? Help, I need a picture.
The screw sets that I use to hold 110’s together consist of a 1/8” diameter barrel with an internal #2X56TPI threading and 2 #2X56TPI screws. The barrel and the screws sometimes have to be cut to length based on the thickness of the handle. Usually you only need a screw set for the blade pivot to change the blade. But if the knife has been further disassembled, you may need additional sets for the rocker pivot requiring 1 set and/or the spring holder which requires 2 sets. This is what the screw sets look like, and they are available from most knife maker suppliers.
