Quick way to distinguish 1095/AEB-L?

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matthewhoffman

Joined
Nov 19, 2016
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Hi all,

Hoping for some advice. I just opened a few boxes with equal amounts of 1095 and AEB-L. Unfortunately, the NJ Baron only labeled a few of the pieces, and the paint colors on the ends seem inconsistent. I'm wondering if there's a quick, simple test to tell them apart. Should I just sprinkle water on them and see what rusts? Or is there an easier way?

Much thanks!
 
matthewhoffman said:
Hi all,

Hoping for some advice. I just opened a few boxes with equal amounts of 1095 and AEB-L. Unfortunately, the NJ Baron only labeled a few of the pieces, and the paint colors on the ends seem inconsistent. I'm wondering if there's a quick, simple test to tell them apart. Should I just sprinkle water on them and see what rusts? Or is there an easier way?

Much thanks!
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Aldos AEB-L is marked blue and red. 1095 will rust more readily than AEB-L. If you have come acid (even warm vinegar) it should darken 1095 faster and more than aeb-l.
 
Do both steels have the same surface finish?
Did you order the same dimensions in both?

You could try oil-hardening a coupon of each, see what happens.
 
The AEB-L should have a cleaner surface finish unless you had the 1095 ground.
 
Yes, I ordered exactly the same dimensions--and the same number of bars--in each steel. Makes it a wee complicated! But Kevin's suggestion to check out the end colors seems to have solved it. I hadn't realized there was a color formula in play. Once it was explained, it matches up with my order.
 
The AEB-L won't really be stainless until it's heat-treated. Though they may rust at different rates anyway.

Glad you got it sorted!
 
daizee said:
The AEB-L won't really be stainless until it's heat-treated. Though they may rust at different rates anyway.
True. My pre HT aeb-l will rust. Though not nearly as readily as 10xx steels. In my experience anyway .
Glad you got it sorted!
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