R&D,18th c.American axe

Thanks,guys!

I got it filed(and stoned,and stropped on a piece of leather).
Shaves hairs off my arm(not after i chopped a dry spruce log though).2002.jpg

My camera sucks for focal length...Every photo makes the axe look different...But here i Try to show how much pocker it's got...(maybe 1/16",at each end of 3" blade?)...

2004.jpg

I should be embarrassed to show the kind of chopping i do,at my age...But have no choice...:(
The log is very dry,spruce,of course:

2011.jpg

2012.jpg So far,the head has stayed put,and the wedge,in spite of getting well-oiled,is not trying to slither out...
I'm still kinda digesting my impressions,not sure what to think....

Doesnt't stick,hardly at all...Takes a bit of getting used to a blade narrower than common...
 
I appreciate both you guy's input Immensely,thank you,hearing the like from serious users makes it possible for me to stagger on...

That axe is now out of my hands,no further testing by me,it's now deployed...:

22014.jpg
You can't see it behind the rider's leg,but there's a loop holder riveted to the tub...If the machine ever goes down through the ice,or whatever,an experienced guy will surface with his axe in his right hand,ready to help to climb out on that ice...
Or any other emergency,getting wet,getting stuck,or just clearing a tree out of the way...
This friend of mine is an older guy,as experienced as they come,spent his whole life out in the woods,and continues to be there every day...I'll probably get some good feed-back from him...

But i'm now free to start on the next round,# 13 i think it'll be...

I liked many things about this one(those lugs...since drawing them out in pre-form,i never touched them,not once,not a single corrective blow..weird..).
What i'd like to modify is the dimensions.
This one was under 7" by 3"+blade...I'd like to aim squarer,6"x 4",ideally...(well,there's that issue of old ones being worn...But just a bit wider in the blade be good).

Also ended up with this "waist" in front of eye...Would like to try to avoid it...
What else?...I'm sure more things will occur along the way...
 
I debated wether i should post this here,as it's not Exactly about aiming for the period-correct technology,but i suppose in some ways it is too,so...

The jist of this is that i need to come up with a finished/hung axe for an old friend,and it was just expeditious to finish one of the experimental forgings from last year.
As projected,this axe has no clearly defined aim;my friend is aging and lives in town now where he uses fuel oil for heat and all that jazz.But like so many here he grew up in a village on the River,and still has a fairly involved fish camp that he spends a couple of summer months in.So this will be for sentimental reasons more than anything,maybe some very minor clearing(his camp is neat as a pin),or an occasional pounding in of a boat stake,but mainly as a Symbol-going anywhere or doing anything outside of city environment means,to everyone here,to have an axe first and foremost.
(Once when i was young and green i went to help a friend on acessing/salvaging a small plane that he crashed.We were landed by another pilot on a lake some miles away,and made up our loads of tools for the hike to the site.Ignorantly i lashed my axe with all other tools into my packboard load,and at the last moment was made to undo it,and get the axe out,it's Unthinkable to meander about without your axe being in your hand:) ).

This was the forging that i'm starting from.It was from early in the process last year,and it was the only one that was slit&drifted from a solid chunk of 3/4" thick WI(by a couple inches wide,i believe).It's way too narrow,and the blade came out of insufficient width for it's general length.
That's one of the things i'll try to remedy.
(soapstone line across indicates the extent of steel edge material):
2024.jpg
Here're the top and bottom views.
The eye was made with that experimental drift styled after the eye shape of a number of older examples of similar axes.(It is actually something i must revisit).
It is an inverse taper,narrower at the top,like many old European axes where there was no provision for wedging,but more of a Morse-taper type system(some were wedged as an afterthought later).
But i want to change this to a conventional eye,not only i'm out of hickory(or very nearly so),but i don't want Manny to be faced with having to replace a one-off haft,if need ever arises.
Moreover,i'm interested in finding out how that ancient-style shape compares to the modern one in Circumference,which also means in area of section of it.

2021.jpg
2022.jpg

So here it is,drifted out to a modern 28"/2 1/4# boy's axe eye.
It took No effort at all,hardly,meaning that the circumference is very much the same....Interesting,that...Does that mean that the Volume of wood was the same in those old eyes?But arranged more efficiently,to oppose the forces from using it?(especially not being weakened by a kerf?)...
But you can see how thick the blade still is,that is what i'm hoping to forge out into a wider shape...:

2027.jpg

Unfortunately that amount of mass is finite,and soon i just have to quit,that's all she wrote,i'm not willing to start going under what would be sufficient blade thickness for Chopping:

2032.jpg

This is what it looks like on edge,from top.
You can also see how snaky it wants to get on me...Connected by thin cheeks the poll and the blade want to act independently.It can get pretty bad,as any bending of the sides of eye is in fact a forging operation that results in them getting thinner.So it's a finite process that can spin out of control at least lapse of attention,and can be difficult and at some point impossible to correct.

2034.jpg
 
But i do eventually regain control,and this is what it ends up looking like in the end.
I strike some lines with soapstone to make it look a bit more intentional,but also as always to get a peek at the welds that just underwent some major pounding...

2042.jpg

The top view after the trim.
(ridiculously enough all the welds are better than any other head so far...about when i'm beginning to accept my shortcomings in that dept....:(...it must be a very fortuitous combination of this particular WI and whatever this thing was bladed with).

2048.jpg

Bottom too is totally fine...

2049.jpg

And this is where it's at at the moment,with a 28" Link handle stuck temporarily into the eye,just to see wassup...(all that re-styling of eye didn't do it many favors,it gets bigger with every drifting heat,and will now have to be set down Much further to the shoulder,And some length of it made up with the wedge).

2056.jpg

All in all i'm reasonably happy with how it's coming out so far(i'm doing all i can in my feeble powers,in any case).

Curiously,have come across this Stricker photo i pilfered from ebay...It's interesting on a number of counts(very thin blade for one,but that's a different story).
The outline of it seems also kind of unusual-more Flamboyant,if i can put it that way...That severe,Puritan "plainness",the strictness of lines seems to be more relaxed here as compared to many older axes,Stohler's in particular...
(i wish i had that beautiful Height of poll to try for the similar shape on purpose,but it'll have to be another,wider forging).

Also note the grinding on that Stricker,it's very similar to what Square-peg has done on his,similar direction...Once again,S-p,MUCH respect for your sense of the appropriate and the practical in this type of axes.
strickerebay4.jpg
 
I have Not been screwing off...:(...Well,maybe just a bit.Unfocused and disorganised,reluctant to start on another head and finding plenty of excuses for that.

A game-changing event,a friend from down south has sent me a set of real,legit drawing dies.
(till this point i had no capacity for drawing out,nothing but flat bits).
This is kinda revolutionary,as it opens up certain possibilities not open really practical by hand.
Like drifts...I can relatively easily make a new drift...
Or draw out the blade under the hammer,these dies are well- radiused,but also they're symmetrical.
And it made me indecisive,all these options...

Photo,(except like an eejit i took this photo before i realised the bottom die is backwards:)

2004.jpg

So far i had only a quick run at the new dies,and i wanted it to be something fairly big and Stiff.
And i did something bad and unfocused,and decided to forge an overlayed bit,the blank for one.
So this is a 3"x4" chunk of that 1/2" thick Hydroax blade(we (editorial we:))presume that it's something 5160-ish,or 92xx et c.,it's some US made spring steel of decent quality).
2009.jpg

I had adjustments to do and so on,but eventually,once the hammer warmed up,that second shoulder i did in one heat.
So it's drawn out on the sides that'll grip the axe blade,and the thick part in the middle will,Hopefully,upset into even thicker material to be drawn into the cutting edge itself-so the more-the merrier.
And That,upsetting 1/2" plate in spring-steel is something that i can't,physically,do.

2014.jpg


Bending it into a U was a bear.
But it Did actually upset some,and the outside is convex,it basically worked.
(i actually have some 3/4" thick spring too...can make it shorted and fatter and get even more mass at edge.
(bad photo...it actually has a bit more at bend):

2016.jpg

I'll get back on our old axes!

(Freud or the debbil have made me do that...After struggling with those welds in front of eye i just couldn't resist thinking of clamping a piece of solid steel right Over that blade !!!:)
 
P.S.
By an absolutely wild coincidence,a friend has just alerted me to this
(apparently this is a Kelly Perfect):

W.C.Kelly.jpg

This must've been the very design in question...Poll/eye preform folded and welded,and overlaid bit holding everything tight securely(Pioneer axe scenario_.

I can just Feel how satisfying it must be to smash that steel over all those questionable iron welds!!!:)
 
P.S.
By an absolutely wild coincidence,a friend has just alerted me to this
(apparently this is a Kelly Perfect):

View attachment 1315904

This must've been the very design in question...Poll/eye preform folded and welded,and overlaid bit holding everything tight securely(Pioneer axe scenario_.

I can just Feel how satisfying it must be to smash that steel over all those questionable iron welds!!!:)
Let me dig out an axe I acquired few months ago from big auction site. Maybe I can get you decent pics of the welds. I just removed remnants of the handle: what a pain in the butt. When I was finally done I realized the top of the eye was actually 1/16 smaller the the bottom.
By the way, I blame this thread for most of my purchases from fleabay (I just cannot get the stuff I am looking for @ flea market, estate, or garage sales)
IMG-20200405-161618687.jpg



 
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NICE,crbnSteeladdict,very interesting weld scene for sure...Neat as a pin...i want to say that the parts were swaged out in at least an open die...Geometry is nearly perfect.
Thank you,and sorry to lead you unto temptation...!:)
(that smaller head is very neat and interesting too,i really like it's lines in that top-view)
 
NICE,crbnSteeladdict,very interesting weld scene for sure...Neat as a pin...i want to say that the parts were swaged out in at least an open die...Geometry is nearly perfect.
Thank you,and sorry to lead you unto temptation...!:)
(that smaller head is very neat and interesting too,i really like it's lines in that top-view)
I suspect it is Falls City or Columbian version of Kentucky made Kelly Perfect (hard to find ones without any fancy etchings)
1lb 7.7oz. It is very hard to find Jersey pattern in that size(handmade is a bonus), so I am more than happy to deal with mushroomed poll. I have so many hatchets and axes ready to use but I will definitely make a handle for this one.

 
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OK,after a few hours in the forge today i'm again(or still...)lost.
I worked up a couple drifts,or rather blanks for them.
Then i realised that i'm still totally undecided about the correct size Or shape for our axes in question here.
I've been kinda escaping into just using conventional,tear-drop shape drifts that became popular later.(and not particularly liking the result-it often bulges the sides of eye out,and even if not,aesthetically it doen't really match the older axes).
So if the eye was rectangular,or bullet-shaped on front end,i wonder how long and wide was a median one?
And what are the physics of hanging a 2+# head,what area of section of wood be sufficient?

I worked on two blanks(i'm still getting used to new dies,and making endless adjustments,tho i think i'm getting it).
The bigger,out of 1 3/4" round stock flattened to just under 2" wide(the new dies are deadly-efficient,not Any mass displacement outside intended direction...kinda scary).
I left it in thickness 5/8" and down.
The second one was the one i made last year,as i was trying to figure things out(same things i'm Still puzzled by).
It seemed a bit insufficient to me.1 3/4" long by under 1/2" wide...I wonder how heavy of a head that eye would support?
But i extended it in length and a bit in thickness,to a 1/2"+.

Starting stock(an old drift for project long ago).I want the length,i need to be able to sight down the drift,so this will be double-ended,and near 2' long for blade alignment.
(close to 2" of med.-C steel,it's about max size for my poor old hammer,i believe the official capacity rating is 2"sq.)

2006.jpg
The other stock is 1 1/8" pavement-breaker bit.Here're both viewed on the flat:

2008.jpg

And viewed on edge.Again,these are blanks.Now i need to figure out the finish dimensions that i'm going for,then i'll reforge as needed,and grind them clean.
(now how muddle-headed it this,a year into research,dozen heads later,endless thinking and consulting-and still to be uncertain of eye-shape?!):

2009.jpg

At that point i had a good fire going,and had still some issues to be worked out with the hammer,so i decided to see what kind of a job it'd do on a overly-thick laminate blade.

I picked a victim,nice and fat.Lots of hard steel,and very soft WI on both sides,so a Very awkward job to do by hand(i'd be smearing the soft WI vs forging through the entire laminate):

2011.jpg
Here's a top view.You can see that those front seams-my Nemesis!-are both shitty...Also there's another incipient problem having also to do with steel all the way to eye:Soft WI is shearing over the edge of hard steel,creating those nasty points of weakened structure:

2013.jpg

Only a couple heats and i'm done-i don't have an infinite amount to play with.I fluxed the bad ends of those seams hoping what the heck...

2014.jpg

And this is what it looked like on the flat.You can see how the blade is elongating almost catastrophically,i've no control other than in that one direction.Cannot turn the axe sideways without modifying those dies extensively.
So another reason to quit there and go to hand hammer:

2016.jpg
 
Eventually this was the end of forging it to shape.
It's a touch over 7",with edge length 4 1/4"

2017.jpg

Bottom,where damage over edges of hard steel is more severe:

2020.jpg

And the top(that i did slightly better job straightening things out):

2024.jpg

I didn't grind into the seams yet.They look weird in photo due to softer iron lipping over the steel,but in actuality i think they're somewhat improved over initial state of things.

Here it's suck on a broken old 28" handle just for scale.It's bordering on too big...I MUST scale things down..(well,it's an old forging;i think i've learned to not exceed 2 1/2#,but must go a bit lower yet...)

2029.jpg
 
I suspect it is Falls City or Columbian version of Kentucky made Kelly Perfect (hard to find ones without any fancy etchings)
1lb 7.7oz. It is very hard to find Jersey pattern in that size(handmade is a bonus), so I am more than happy to deal with mushroomed poll. I have so many hatchets and axes ready to use but I will definitely make a handle for this one.

Thank you,this is Most interesting...Well,this is exactly what i'm wondering about...This VERY eye...

If possible,may i beg for measurements of the eye?...And do you think it was meant to have an hour-glass shape inside,or just be jammed on to be held by...magik?
 
Thank you,this is Most interesting...Well,this is exactly what i'm wondering about...This VERY eye...

If possible,may i beg for measurements of the eye?...And do you think it was meant to have an hour-glass shape inside,or just be jammed on to be held by...magik?
Sorry for the confusion. I was only removing remnants of the haft from WC Kelly axe (I was expecting top on the eye to be longer then bottom).

Jersey was sent to me as it is.
Weight 1lb 7.7oz.
Length 5 5/8 inches
Bit 3 3/8 inches
Poll 2 1/4 inches
Bottom eye 1 7/8 inches long and 9/16 wide
Top eye 1 3/4 inches long and 9/32 wide
Width measured across the top of the eye 3/4 in
Width measured across the bottom of the eye 3/4 in
The shape of the eye follows Pennsylvania Blacksmiths' pattern: wider on the bottom, narrow on the top. The walls around the lugs a very thin and much thicker at the top (3/16). I am pretty sure it is supposed to be jammed (I won't cut the haft flush, though: thinking about Plumb's take up kind of wedge on the top)
 
I'm extremely grateful for this,Thank you.

Weight 1lb 7.7oz.
Length 5 5/8 inches
Bit 3 3/8 inches
Poll 2 1/4 inches
Bottom eye 1 7/8 inches long and 9/16 wide
Top eye 1 3/4 inches long and 9/32 wide
Width measured across the top of the eye 3/4 in
Width measured across the bottom of the eye 3/4 in
The shape of the eye follows Pennsylvania Blacksmiths' pattern: wider on the bottom, narrow on the top. The walls around the lugs a very thin and much thicker at the top (3/16). I am pretty sure it is supposed to be jammed (I won't cut the haft flush, though: thinking about Plumb's take up kind of wedge on the top)
 
Let me dig out an axe I acquired few months ago from big auction site. Maybe I can get you decent pics of the welds.

Thank you yet Again for those overlaid bit weld photos.Those are uber cool.Steel just smashed on there,Just the way i imagined it'd be done,edges tapered and welded wherever they bear.
Beautiful.I sure would like to try an overlayed bit...
 
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