Randall Blasphemy

Murindo

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In another post https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/dont-flame-me-bro.1726793/, AtomicRooster57 asked if forcing a patina on a new Randall would get him flamed. I answered with a pick of a new (2020) Model 1-8 where I'd done that.

That made me think I should confess to other blasphemies. I cast no aspersions on Randall collectors who only admire and take care of their knives, even going so far as not putting them in their sheath. I think that probably covers 50% of the Randall buyers. Then there is the 40% who buy one to say they have one but are too fearful of reducing the value by using them. I'm in that last 10% of people who like to use their Randall knives and in fact modify them to better suit their needs.

My first Randall is a Model 1-6 that I bought in 1966 in preparation for Vietnam. Over the years I've shortened and blackened the guard, blued the blade, reformed the tip, beveled and blackened the butt and ridged and checkered the leather grip. I explained much of this in a Randall Collectors newsletter in Nov 2002 (PM your email and I'll send you a copy)
 

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More blasphemy.

The worst thing about a new Randall from a user standpoint is the slippery leather grip. This can be cure by running it under hot water which raises "fur". I prefer to go one more step by adding ridges and checkering with a checkering file. This is a 1950's 12-11 Confederate Bowie I recently refurbished.
 

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I like your modifications. I’m with you. If a knife is a user, I make changes to suit my preferences.

On the leather do you use a checkering file for metal or the checkering tools for wood?
 
In another post https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/dont-flame-me-bro.1726793/, AtomicRooster57 asked if forcing a patina on a new Randall would get him flamed. I answered with a pick of a new (2020) Model 1-8 where I'd done that.
My first Randall is a Model 1-6 that I bought in 1966 in preparation for Vietnam. Over the years I've shortened and blackened the guard, blued the blade, reformed the tip, beveled and blackened the butt and ridged and checkered the leather grip. I explained much of this in a Randall Collectors newsletter in Nov 2002 (PM your email and I'll send you a copy)

The depth of my depravity know no bounds....
IMG_0736-2.jpg

IMG_0741-2.jpg
 
Looks good to me! I really like the Border Patrol handle on the Model 1.

Did I ever get a surprise Murindo. I've never used hot vinegar to force 01 Tool Steel. Needless to say it's a completely different finish than on 1095. She soaked of 2 hours and she came out almost gun blue! I wasn't expecting that. I like it but will hit it with some steel wool to try to knock down the gloss. I gave the hilt and but cap the scotch bright treatment.

Neither of my Randalls were what I call sharp so I put a mirrored polish edge top and bottom. Putting an edge on the top edge was a head scratcher but got it done. I still haven't wrapped my head around putting an edge on my #2. I'll cogitate a little longer before I give it a go. Another astonishment I received was how easy it was to sharpen compared to some of the super steels. It will take a very keen edge. Next week we will see the edge retention of 01 Tool Steel.

Thanks for your support.
 
My opinion is it's your knife and you can do anything you want to do to it.

In the end it is just a knife so have fun and if you feel the need to make changes or adjust it to suit your needs then have at it.
 
You are right, of course, but sometimes there is a downside:
I once decided that I could put a better blade profile on my Sebenza than Chris Reeve does. I went ahead, found that whatever I did, I never got the improvement I was looking for--so I sent the knife back to have a new blade installed, and paid a good price. I am reluctant to try the same thing with any of my Randall knives!
-Steve
 
You are right, of course, but sometimes there is a downside:
I once decided that I could put a better blade profile on my Sebenza than Chris Reeve does. I went ahead, found that whatever I did, I never got the improvement I was looking for--so I sent the knife back to have a new blade installed, and paid a good price. I am reluctant to try the same thing with any of my Randall knives!
-Steve


I know what you mean.

Expensive lesson for sure.
 
A Randall knife is a compromise. Recognizing that there are many uses for a knife, Randall sets their knives up to suit most users. Their designs have evolved over the years and it would be tough to improve on the long term favorites (1,2,3,4,14, etc.) for most users.

That said, you should never assume that any maker has produced the knife perfect for your hand, your sense of balance, or your need.

I bought a Model 1-6 in 1966 presuming participation in Vietnam. I bought it because it was the knife all the "experts" used. It is certainly a better stronger all around combat knife than the famous Ka-Bar or Fairbairn Sykes or even the Gerber daggers. It was later that I realized that while a great knife, it wasn't a perfect fit or feel for me. I shortened the guards, beveled the butt, checkered the grip, painted the guard and butt flat black, and blued the blade for less light reflection and better rust resistance. I also honed the first two and half inches of the blade to a fine zero bevel.

Now it fit me perfectly which also boosted my confidence in it. Would it be the same for you? Probably not.

As I have noted elsewhere, I don't criticize Randall collectors. I will say that those who have used Randall's know how great these knives really are.
 
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