RAT/RC coating.

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Jan 28, 2006
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Just out of curiosity, I was wondering why you went with the blade coatings you did. Specifically, I was wondering why no one seems to do a good hot blue job, particularly on their carbon steel blades. Seeing some custom knives with it, it looks beautiful.
 
While I will agree that Blueing looks really nice, the powder coat seems to protect the 1095 steel a little better.
 
while the blueing on a gun is not protected as good as a powder coat knife,but need maintence.. but blueing is more prone to rust and damage from oily finger prints than a power coated blade. my two cents..
 
OK, I was just thinking that it would slow down the corrosion enough that it would develope a patina as it wore off, rather than rusting.
 
I was wondering what kind of powder coat you use? I just finished stripping my RAT 7 and the coating was a bitch to get off with chemical strippers and even sand paper. Much harder to remove than Busse's crinkle coat.
 
I was wondering what kind of powder coat you use? I just finished stripping my RAT 7 and the coating was a bitch to get off with chemical strippers and even sand paper. Much harder to remove than Busse's crinkle coat.

That's good to know; I was thinking about stripping a RAT3 and putting a patina on it. So I'd like to hear too, if there is a better way to remove the coating.
 
If I'm not mistaken, the powder that Ontario uses is Sherwin Williams. I think what you will find is the steel preparation before the coating has as much to do with how hard it is to remove as the type of powder used.
 
Steel has to be VERY clean before coating is applied. Sand or bead blasted/ bath and some are acid dipped to remove all contaminants. EVen the oil from a finger on the bare clean steel will cause a coating not to stick well and blister off in a finished knife. It is sprayed on then baked on. Yeah it's a bitch to get off but then that's the point.:) Mike
 
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