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I actually believe (but have no experience with) that Box Elder might work: Acer negundo. It's Maple as well. But i any case, all maple should work for most axes since it roughly 620KG/m3 for the softest and up from there on. Bendability is fine as long as the wood has no visible faults like runout.
First question that rises in my mind is: Why are you only looking for straight growth? Ok, its easier to proces, and you can get more handles out of a piece of wood. But natural curvature and a handle that follows that natural curve is even better. It just that more material is wasted. I believe @imsosharp has an example somewhere in his topic. its a slipfit but the same rules apply. The problem is that we are now in the proces of designing the axe in stead of that we let the material dictate what we get.
This sound wrong on so many levels: But listening to wood isn't so bad.
Black and sugar maple are bit harder, silver and red are softer. So for me if I would be living in Kansas it would be the first to.
Sugar maple is: Acer saccharum
Black maple is: Acer negrum
Finding sugar maple would probably be easier in Kansas though. I actually believe (but have no expirience with) that Box Elder might work: Acer negundo. It's Maple as well. But i any case, all maple should work for most axes since it roughly 620KG/m3 for the softest and up from there on. Bendability is fine as long as the wood has no visible faults like runout.
Oak is harder to work with, but once its done it'll stay that way for a long time. It doens't want to break for some reason with me. But I dont have any oak handles left other then the carpenters hatchet.
Elm is always a simple choice: It's fine either way and whichever elm you prefer.
Not All types of Wood need a perfect grain orientation: Most tropical hardwoods for One, but also yew and ash needs to Be allright but not perfect. Black Locust doesnt mind grain orientation for as far as i know? You kan hardly break it as long as You can handle shock.
But as I Said: Dont have a design in Your Head but listen what the Wood tels You. Or if You have a design in Your Head just go to a lumber yard and have a look around. Until You find the right piece i Guess? Stil cheaper then looking for months for just the right tree.
Are you aware that COTS is a master craftsman and the maker of the finest handles anyone has ever seen?Don't get me wrong: Same here, but with a Jersey! And that being said: Being a car guy doesn't help as wel. Probably the same with you as well. But you have to keep in mind that wood is a naturally occuring thing, where metal can be bent and shaped any way you like it.
I have a racing background, so looking at wood for me is like looking at the rulebook: I want to do something, but i know i cant because of said rules. I can bend the rules, but not by much, but it results in a solution for a problem that the rulebook dictates.
With wood its the same: Rules like grain apply. Breaking that rule results in broken handles. Bending the rules results in creative solutions. Just to give you something to think about and point you in the right direction:
- What would be the result of runout on the top of the handle? And what would be the result on the lower part of the handle. Think in shock absorbtion and where the weight is located.
- Why do the Spanish/Basque angle their grain differently?
Think long and hard about it for at least 24 hours and then give an answer. Let it mature in your head.
Are you aware that COTS is a master craftsman and the maker of the finest handles anyone has ever seen?
Are you aware that COTS is a master craftsman and the maker of the finest handles anyone has ever seen?
Does this illustrate what you mean by "angle their grain differently"?. . . Why do the Spanish/Basque angle their grain differently? . . .