Re-anodize Hinderer battle blue?

[sharp_edge]

Some spots of the battle blue anodization on my Hinderer XM-18 3.5" handle are worn and I am thinking about re-anodizing it. I understand that the battle blue is basically the working finish (which is the result of stonewash finish getting bead blasted) getting blue anodized.

I am thinking about first removing the blue anodization, that is, returning the handle to original working finish by dipping it into whink rust remover, and then electro-anodizing it.

My question is: will whink return the handle to stonewash finish or working finish (I prefer the latter)? In other words, will whink remove bead blast?

I can simply reanodize the handle without removing the current blue anodization but I don't trust the result will be uniform.

 

[razorburn]

I've been experimenting with the Whink up here in Canada and it seems the stuff we have is not the same as the US.I doesn't bubble and sure doesn't remove anodization in seconds,more like a weeks time.I've even had pieces soaking for past a week that still a coating.The one that are stripped bare have a grey bead blasted finish.

So I've been thinking of picking up some Multi-Etch.

 

[sharp_edge]

I've been experimenting with the Whink up here in Canada and it seems the stuff we have is not the same as the US.I doesn't bubble and sure doesn't remove anodization in seconds,more like a weeks time.I've even had pieces soaking for past a week that still a coating.The one that are stripped bare have a grey bead blasted finish.

So I've been thinking of picking up some Multi-Etch.

This is surprising. All the videos I saw show the anodization will be removed in second by Whink. In fact that's the reason that I have not tried it yet (have a bottle of Whink sitting in my garage for a couple of weeks). Maybe I'll start with some plain stonewashed and anodized scales and see how it goes.

 

[razorburn]

This is surprising. All the videos I saw show the anodization will be removed in second by Whink. In fact that's the reason that I have not tried it yet (have a bottle of Whink sitting in my garage for a couple of weeks). Maybe I'll start with some plain stonewashed and anodized scales and see how it goes.

The majority of the videos should it works in seconds but a few of them hours.Report back if you have the same experience.

https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/removing-titanium-anodizing.1745751/

 

[Eversion]

The Whink's won't remove the working finish texture. Usually it makes finishes "grittier" if you hold it in too long. Just watch it carefully and pull it out as soon as the ano is gone and you're good.

I'd try just anodizing it without stripping first. Why not, if you're setting up for ano anyway? Just clean it thoroughly first with alcohol. You should throughly clean it with alcohol first before trying to strip it anyway, so you don't have to keep the piece in as long.

If the simple ano touch up doesn't work, then you can strip and try it again.