Reducing the edge thickness on a 4.1(3v)

Shotgun

Shotgun

Joined
Feb 3, 2006
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I've noticed that in my use that the thickness right behind the edge where the primary and edge grinds meet(the 'shoulder') plays a big part in how well the knife works for me. More so than edge angle. Too thick and I won't use the knife. This is where I'm at with the 4.1. Love the knife, it's just a little too thick there and it's basically useless for me.

I want to narrow that down a bit by sanding the primary grind down by basically laying the primary grind flat on a mouse pad and sandpaper. The idea is to thin it down and round off the corners. Is this doable with 3V steel or will I be sanding 'til kingdom come? I've done something similar with an Izula so I know it works but that's 1095. If it'll take forever I'd rather just sell the knife. Thanks.



On a side note. Do the 3.5's suffer from thick edges too? I was thinking about getting one but I'm a little hesitant of buying from the same company just to have the same problem with all of their models. It would be my experience with Bussekin all over again.:rolleyes::D I'd like something near about 1/2 to 2/3's the thickness of the 4.1 in that transition zone('shoulder'.)
 
The 3.5 seems fine to me. 3V can be sanded. It will work best when you start with 80 grit then move up to 120, 220, and so on. End with 1000 grit and 2000 grit paper and then strop! It will be like a laser
 
Its going to take longer that 10-95 for sure though.
 
Shotgun said:
I've noticed that in my use that the thickness right behind the edge where the primary and edge grinds meet(the 'shoulder') plays a big part in how well the knife works for me. More so than edge angle. Too thick and I won't use the knife. This is where I'm at with the 4.1. Love the knife, it's just a little too thick there and it's basically useless for me.

I want to narrow that down a bit by sanding the primary grind down by basically laying the primary grind flat on a mouse pad and sandpaper. The idea is to thin it down and round off the corners. Is this doable with 3V steel or will I be sanding 'til kingdom come? I've done something similar with an Izula so I know it works but that's 1095. If it'll take forever I'd rather just sell the knife. Thanks.



On a side note. Do the 3.5's suffer from thick edges too? I was thinking about getting one but I'm a little hesitant of buying from the same company just to have the same problem with all of their models. It would be my experience with Bussekin all over again.:rolleyes::D I'd like something near about 1/2 to 2/3's the thickness of the 4.1 in that transition zone('shoulder'.)
Click to expand...

We are actually working on thinning the shoulder on all of the blades. Guy will be way better at talking about the specifics here so I'll let him know to make sure he catches this thread.
 
Izula is a LOT smaller and softer and less abrasion-resistant than a 4.1 or 3.5. I can't comment on the edge thickness of the 3.5, don't own one, but my 4.1 was ~0.030" quite stout (though still thinner than my bussekin from the factory ;) ). I brought that down a bit by simply knocking the shoulders off the edge-bevel and blending it back from 15-dps with a stone and some wet/dry SiC paper using grits as suggested above. Flattening the entire primary grind would certainly do more to improve cutting performance, but it'll take a WHILE and also remove the stonewash finish. That's the kind of thing you might want to send it to a professional for ... Big Chris or even just contact Guy and see what he'd charge to do it ...

IMG_0624.JPG
 
I thinned behind the edges of my GSO 4.1 in M390 and GSO 6 in 3v with a belt sander.
I noticed an immediate improvement in all cutting tasks and have not suffered any edge damage.
I thumped on the 6 in 3v pretty good here at the house to see how it would hold up and it didn't budge. It is good stuff!




 
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I feel like it is the best cutlery steel out there. Combine 3V with the high level of quality in a Survive Knife and youve got a top notch tool!
 
I hate to see a belt sander used on the edge- creates too much heat and tempers the edge. Reforming the edge is an easy job with a diamond .By hand , no heat ,Be nice to your blades. A fine diamond such as old and worn [ to maybe 1200 grit ]works well to touch up the edge for normal maintanence => fine serrated edge.
 
It is definitely possible to ruin an edge using a belt sander with bad technique. Its all about common sense. I'm pretty comfortable with my machine using fresh belts and constant water dipping. Also, I really enjoy doing it. The result after removing the burr with the leather belt is amazing.
 
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