Refinishing help

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Mar 14, 2020
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I am brand new on the forum, and I need some help. I purchased a set of custom knives made from high carbon Damascus. I received them and was pleased, however they were not very sharp. I sharpened to a shaving quality with my wicked edge, but they still didn’t cut the way I wanted. To me they appear to thick and not tapered enough towards the cutting edge. If I were to attempt to reprofile them could it be done with an orbital sander or would I have to get a small belt sander. Once done I know they would have to be re-etched. I appreciate any Help
 
I underst
No. Stop.

If you want them thinned down, based on what you've said, just get a pro.

Let's ping Josh.

REK Knives REK Knives
I understand. That’s was my first thought, but it should be noted these were ordered and fabricated from a professional with his own forge etc. I am not familiar with blade smithing and don’t claim to be, but I am a medical professional who has experience with both casting and forging a variety of metals for precision medical devices that have to fit within micrometers to function property. This is pretty simple by comparison, I am just looking to find out what device would make the most sense for me to purchase reduce the blades width by about .5 mm on the spine as well as profile the knives at a more acute angle. The grinds are far too obtuse. All of my equipment is for detailed work and I just wondered if anyone had a recommendation for light duty sander.
 
I underst

I understand. That’s was my first thought, but it should be noted these were ordered and fabricated from a professional with his own forge etc. I am not familiar with blade smithing and don’t claim to be, but I am a medical professional who has experience with both casting and forging a variety of metals for precision medical devices that have to fit within micrometers to function property. This is pretty simple by comparison, I am just looking to find out what device would make the most sense for me to purchase reduce the blades width by about .5 mm on the spine as well as profile the knives at a more acute angle. The grinds are far too obtuse. All of my equipment is for detailed work and I just wondered if anyone had a recommendation for light duty sander.
 
Thanks Eli!

Op try a harbor freight 1x30 belt sander
 
I am brand new on the forum, and I need some help. I purchased a set of custom knives made from high carbon Damascus. I received them and was pleased, however they were not very sharp. I sharpened to a shaving quality with my wicked edge, but they still didn’t cut the way I wanted. To me they appear to thick and not tapered enough towards the cutting edge. If I were to attempt to reprofile them could it be done with an orbital sander or would I have to get a small belt sander. Once done I know they would have to be re-etched. I appreciate any Help

Are you in the USA? Did you buy these from a USA knifemaker? If so, then any knifemaker who values their name should be willing to fix this issue for you. It might be they ask for a little bit extra money to pay for it if they believe the knives are good as delivered, but most people value their reputation enough to do it.

If you do it yourself, there are a number of issues. The knives are already heat treated and tempered, so while grinding them, you must make sure you do not raise the temperature of the steel above the original tempering temperature as it will soften the steel. This is difficult for thin knives especially at the tip because there is less mass to act as a thermal sink. When grinding already heat treated and tempered blades, I always dunk the blade in a bucket of water after every pass on the belt grinder. You can use a Harbor Freight 1x30 belt sander as your grinder, but beware that the platen is very small and thin, and it will heat up as you grind on the blade too. Then you'll probably need to hand sand the blade to get the grinding scratches homogenous. Some people, especially Japanese kitchen knife enthusiasts prefer to thin down blades on diamond plates or waterstones thus avoiding the issue of overheating the steel, but you'll still want to reach an even scratch pattern before etching.

Another issue you have to worry about is re-etching the damascus. You'll have to mask the handle off in a way that the etchant won't soak into the handle material or soak into it. Make sure the entire blade is sanded evenly without deep low grit scratches. Some people like to stop at 400 grit for carbon damascus, but I like to go even higher and do multiple etches in ferric chloride until I'm happy with how it looks. Beware that leaving low grit scratches will show up in the etch because the etchant will attack and etch the scratches deeper.

All in all, what you want to do is a pain, and that's why I would recommend trying to get the maker to fix the issue. If you bought these knives from a foreign seller located in India, Pakistan, or China, the chances are the damascus steel is of low quality and then I say just try it because you're probably not out too much money if you mess them up.

A damascus knife that I made:
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M milkbaby , I agree with your process of taping off the decorative portion of the knife before polishing. However, once I got a 'shadow' of the tape on the blade which did not rub out with Mothers.

When in doubt, I take the finest, whitest paper I can find and cut it to match the blade shape less the bevel. Yes, there will be a hairline mark of the blue tape, but that's easier than having to detail polish the entire blade.

For example, right now I'm debating on whether to polish the edge off a new Cold Steel Bush Ranger, or just wait until I dull the thing to death. That blade is marked "8Cr13MoV China" and it has numerous minor shipping marks and round water mark.

upload_2020-3-16_13-47-12.jpeg
 
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