Removing Anodization

[aleforme]

What kind of scotchbright the one with green side an yellow sponge otherside or the metal scotchbright

I just used the green thin pad. I think it was called a general purpose pad?

 

[Mo2]

Whink

Multi Etch for brighter colors.

 

[Lapedog]

Sounds like whink is the defacto easiest option. I'd like to get back to raw titanium from some anodized screws, would this be ok too?

Is it actually eating away metal? Will it potentially effect threads or fit etc?

Thanks

It doesn’t eat away metal at all.

Titanium screws will be fine in whink and the anodozation will come right off.

Stainless steel screws should not be put in because the whink will etch them almost instantly.

 

[bflying]

As others have said, 8 seconds in Whink will strip the surface oxides that produces the light refracting ano colors. If leaving it raw, on mine I would most likely go at it with a Scotchbrite pad to remove any gritty texture that may n left behind . Be sure to dismantle as much as you feel comfortable with. And any remaining steel parts (pivot/detent bearings, lock insert, etc), must be covered with something like fingernail polish or rubber cement. I destroyed a few steel detent balls before I realized that the stuff eats steel at least equal to Ti, if not faster.

 

[Bill DeShivs]

There is a lot of misinformation in the first video.
Anodizing is not done to steel. Aluminum anodizing is quite a bit different from the amateur color anodizing done on titanium.
Aluminum anodizing uses current to prepare the metal for dyeing. Various color dyes can be used. Then the aluminum is boiled and treated to seal the dye into the anodized layer.

 

[Mo2]

Some anno vids by FFKW. they dont really like Whink either.

 

[Colorodo]

Wow, couldn’t believe how quickly the Whink took off the anodization.

 

[Dogdrawz]

Don’t bother stonewashing it off.
Insteas buy some Whink brand rust stain remover and submerge the anodized part in it for a few seconds. It will eat the anodization right off of titanium.
It is %2 hydroflouric acid. Just be careful it will etch even stainless steel in a matter of seconds.

Yes, this. ^^^

A couple of tips:

1. Wear rubber gloves & safety glasses.
2. Use a container that isn't affected by the Whink for your dunk tank.
3. Don't inhale the fumes.
4. Neutralize the solution before disposal.

This is stainless after about an hour in Whink. You can see where the finger nail polish covered the tang.

 

[Dogdrawz]

It doesn’t eat away metal at all.

Whink will dissolve titanium entirely depending on thickness & duration. Had some ti wire in there too long & poof...all gone.

 

[Lapedog]

Whink will dissolve titanium entirely depending on thickness & duration. Had some ti wire in there too long & poof...all gone.

Yes it will if you leave it in there. You are absolutely right.

I was only talking about in relation to removing anodizing quickly.

DogDrawz is absolutely right though that once the anodization strips off the Ti you should be dunking and flushing any remaining Whink off the titanium.