Reprofiling with a Sharpmaker

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Brutus013

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With the diamond rods, how long does it take to reprofile a blade of say 13c26? How about VG10? Various carbon steels?
 
A LOT faster than with the brown rods. I've been reprofiling mine for about 20-30 minutes, and I've got the angle 95% set - the tip is being stubborn.
 
Might as well ask how long it takes to get to the center of a Blow-Pop.

It takes as long as it takes.

jeep45238 is correct, though, as it is faster to reprofile with diamonds than with the brown ceramics.
 
Brutus013 said:
With the diamond rods, how long does it take to reprofile a blade of say 13c26? How about VG10? Various carbon steels?
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Few days easy. Only DMT D8XX is suitable for reprofiling - with 120 micron diamonds they really do job. Everything else is just too fine (even if DMT marked coarse it is just 45 microns - Spyderco medium - 20 microns).

You may wrap rods with 150 sandpaper (however I did not done this myself).

Thanks, Vassili.
 
Reprofiling the VG-10 blade on my Delica from approx. 20deg per side to 15deg per side took a little over an hour with the the sharpmaker diamond rods. I used light pressure and stopped twice to brush the metal debris off the rods. Of course I then used the medium and fine ceramic hones to clean up the edge - that took an additional 30mins.
btw: I've also tried a DMT (XC/F) diasharp against the hones and that works well too.
 
nozh2002 said:
Few days easy.
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That's a bit of exaggeration. I still reprofile on the medium rods and while it takes a while, it can be done. An hour maybe for an out of the box knife. You can do a couple while watching a movie. The trick is to periodically clean the rods when they get gunked up.

For serious reprofiling I usually use sandpaper on a flat surface. One time I used my water-cooled diamond wheels (very fast and easy).
 
I've had luck reprofiling knives with a cheap SiC oil stone and some water. The blade was about 3.5" S30V dropped a good number of degrees.
 
Extra course benchstones will work much faster. I prefer DMT diamond ones myself.
 
I have the diamond rods for my sharpmaker, and they reprofile just fine. It is a slow, tedious process, but with patience and a steady hand it is accomplished with ease and precision.

I haven't reprofiled any 13c26, but I have done lots of s30v, a few in zdp189, one with vg-10 and one 440. The 440 and s30v were the easiest, coming in at 30 - 45 minutes. The vg-10 and zdp were somewhere around an hour, maybe more(I usually don't do it all at once). These times are for the diamond rods, not the whole process. I will take the blade through the brown and white stones to clean up the edge. The smoother the edge bevel, the less resistance behind the edge(yay ultra-fine stones!)
 
firebert said:
That's a bit of exaggeration. I still reprofile on the medium rods and while it takes a while, it can be done. An hour maybe for an out of the box knife. You can do a couple while watching a movie. The trick is to periodically clean the rods when they get gunked up.

For serious reprofiling I usually use sandpaper on a flat surface. One time I used my water-cooled diamond wheels (very fast and easy).
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What is your definition of reprofiling? I am talking about like putting 50 degree KaBar 1222 to 30 Degree. Or make some edge on Busse after it came from factiry. 3" Delica with already good edge which is almost 15 actually already from the factory can take hour or so but question was about reprofiling.

Thanks, Vassili.
 
Pyscho78, I think a lot of people on here use the term re-profiling for changing the bevel on the blade. I always thought re-profiling was to change the shape of a blade as a clip to a drop point etc.
KC
 
nozh2002 said:
What is your definition of reprofiling? I am talking about like putting 50 degree KaBar 1222 to 30 Degree. Or make some edge on Busse after it came from factiry. 3" Delica with already good edge which is almost 15 actually already from the factory can take hour or so but question was about reprofiling.

Thanks, Vassili.
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Few blades small enough to be practically sharpened on the sharpmaker have such poor geometry. I only have one blade aside from the knives I made myself that needed serious reprofiling like you mention, (a Kershaw Outcast). I agree it would have taken close to forever for that blade (it could benefit from a regrind, too). That's the one I used power equipment on and finished with the sharpmaker. Really it's pretty big to use on the sharpmaker, but it's what I have.

I do similar with my kitchen blades when they return from heat treat. Sandpaper followed by the sharpmaker for final work.
 
never too sharp said:
I have the diamond rods for my sharpmaker, and they reprofile just fine. It is a slow, tedious process, but with patience and a steady hand it is accomplished with ease and precision.

I haven't reprofiled any 13c26, but I have done lots of s30v, a few in zdp189, one with vg-10 and one 440. The 440 and s30v were the easiest, coming in at 30 - 45 minutes. The vg-10 and zdp were somewhere around an hour, maybe more(I usually don't do it all at once). These times are for the diamond rods, not the whole process. I will take the blade through the brown and white stones to clean up the edge. The smoother the edge bevel, the less resistance behind the edge(yay ultra-fine stones!)
Click to expand...

Hmm. For comparison my ZDP Caly took about 5 minutes, taking a VG10 Centofante 3 flat to the stone took about 10, doing the same with a 13C27 Skyline took about the same, my S30V Para took 10 minutes, two bladed SAK 5 minutes. This is on an extra course DMT stone. Also, I take my edges thinner than most others, so that's more steel to grind.

It seems like it'd be better to just buy a diamond bench stone and reprofile with that, then use the sharpmaker for the cleaning up process and putting on the final edge.
 
I reprofiled a BM 710 D-2 with the grey rods. It probably took 2 1/2 to 3 hours. It's a lot of work, but it can be done.

IMHO, the Edge Pro Apex is a much better solution. It's more expensive than a set of diamond rods, of course, but it's more versatile, and much faster and more precise.

And once you get an "Edge-Pro, you're set for life. You'll never need another sharpener.
 
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