Review : Strider WB

Cliff Stamp

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In retrospect, I should have picked up a similar knife to use as a baseline instead of switching between multiple other blades, something like the Cold Steel 6" Tanto. It would have been interesting for example to look at the greater cutting ability of the CS as I recall it having a much deeper hollow grind, but for the same reason probably lower edge durability. Not to mention the differences in handles and sheaths. The other comparisons could then have been used to flesh this out. Link :

http://www.physics.mun.ca/~sstamp/knives/WB.html

This contains work with two WB's and for awhile was a bit unreadable because of the overlapping content. It has seen heavy edits in the last few weeks as it was cleaned up significantly. Note as well this is quite an old review and thus some of the methods are different than the recent work I have been doing. For example, the 52100-MEUK reviews contains not only more explicit edge holding work, but also reaction to sharpening so you can see just how quickly/slowly the edge responds to being honed. As well awhile ago I switched to using specific stock on the edge testing to make that easily comparable to other work. And for similar reasons I am now including some cutting tests on stock materials (specific type of hardwood dowel and cord) in addition to just general work.

I might repeat the hard edge work on the PAB later on to see if the WB results (primary grind fracture) were an anomaly , however the performance of the PAB is really strong in many areas so I don't want to risk do any extensive damage to it yet. I will probably wait and see how it holds up when it happens naturally. It has been holding up very well on the hardest chopping (dead limbs). No damage after multiple sessions, usually 15-30 minutes.

-Cliff
 
Don't know how I missed this thread Cliff. This is a good review. I'd be interested in a comparision of the Strider with the Fallkniven A-1 and your current Johanning TAC-1 in due time.
 
TWG,

It's funny that you should bring this thread back up today of all days. I've been out "working" with the older version of the Model WB for the last several days.

I don't have any scientific data to support my theory but this knife kicks Ba-Hooty. (Sorry, I stole that from GPB.) :)

I finally had to put an edge back on it today after chopping enough wood to choke a chucking woodchuck. How much could he chuck? Not this much. ;)

Paul Bos and the Strider Guys are a winning combination. This knife'll be used hard until the day there's no more steel to sharpen.
 
Tallwingedgoat, the WB vs TAC-11 vs A1 is a very interesting comparison because you have three sabre ground knives that span the entire grind range : convex, flat, hollow. There is also the difference between blade heavy and neutral balance. At the end of the TAC-11 review I will comment on detail how it compares to those knives among others.

Brian, good to here you are still using that WB that is what they are made for.

-Cliff
 
Cliff, great review. This is the first time I have seen a destructive comparison between carbon steel vs stainless steel. Why would you prefer 5160 steel for a knife similar to the WB. Would you not have to sharpen 5160 even more than 52100 with soft cutting?

Will
 
Thanks Cliff, I look forward to seeing it.

I wasn't even thinking about grinds. I just thought they were all for the same job. Though one is a lot cheaper than the others.
 
Will Kwan :

This is the first time I have seen a destructive comparison between carbon steel vs stainless steel.

Yes, that was kind of the point. Note however that the differences in geometry are as critical as the materials used. Based on the harder steel and more obtuse edge, I figured that the WB would resist light impacts better, and it did. However based on the wider edge, more primary grind support, softer steel and higher basic resistance to fracture, I figured the 52100-bowie would fare better as I increased the strength of my swing, and it did.

I was impressed however with how the WB did handle the situation. It took quite a few hits to generate a edge fault above the edge bevel, and they had to be done at full force (more specific details noted in the review). And I could only do such damage right at that one point, which means that it would not take much extra support to prevent such a fracture from happening (assuming it was not a materials flaw at that point, which I don't believe for reasons stated in the review) because the contacts above and below that were not energetic enough to do significant damage.

Why would you prefer 5160 steel for a knife similar to the WB. Would you not have to sharpen 5160 even more than 52100 with soft cutting?

Yes, you would not get the same level of edge retention. However 5160 is tougher than 52100 and personally I will take that anyday over increased edge retention without pause. Such a high level of toughness is not really necessary when you are using the correct method on the right materials, for example you can easily take down a tree and limb it out with a Henckels chef's knife if you are careful. However, when you factor in things like fatigue, injury, and stress, method can start to degrade, and as well sometimes swings can simply go bad for uncontrolled reaons, for example wood fracturing when you don't expect it. In regards to materials, except in extreme circumstances, inclusions are the most common cause of damage, followed by cuts into something that was hidden from view.

Most hard objects that need to be cut can usually be done without damage with careful method. For example, I could chisel out a cut of the concrete block with the WB without significant edge damage by using a mallet on the spine and using controlled hits, or simply use the point, or even the spine etc. .

Tallwingedgoat, yes the A1 is a lot cheaper, however it is actually far from completely outclassed. It actually has advantages over the other two in various aspects, convex grind being an obvious one - though that has drawbacks as well.

-Cliff
 
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