Rust problems

Same worry is why I'm probably going to start my knife making career with SS. I'm in Florida and there is no escaping the humidity. However there is a YouTube video showing a guy testing some 1095. After 21 days out side 3 in 1 oil did WAY better than any other oil or wax
 
WD 40 is your best friend in the Florida humidity.
 
does wd40 displace water as well as oil? i use extra heavy mineral oil. it never goes rancid. i keep an old phone book in the shop, rip a page out and wrap the blade with it before taping. also consider- the lower the grit finish, the faster and more likely it will rust and corrode.
 
I like Ren wax but usually use lanolin which is good for leather horn bone and wood as well.

Recently read an interesting protocol of
Heating the metal to 150F for 20minutes
Coating it in tung oil with a thin cloth and figure eight patterns and let it dry for at least 4 hours.
Protects even brass from corrosion.
 
woodster said:
does wd40 displace water as well as oil?
Click to expand...

John, WD-40 stands for water displacement 40th formula. Yes, it will displace water as well as any oil available.
 
I should have added " stay away from Padre Island " I've been there ,know all about corrosion there !!!
 
Painter's tape has always given me problems. Frog tape has caused problems too. Now I coat the blade liberally with WD-40 fold printer paper around the entire blade and then wrap it super tight with black electrical tape. Works like a charm and I've never had an issue. I've kept blades wrapped for days and not had issues. The paper soaks up the WD40 and provides a layer of protection from the tape. The black electrical tape works more by being stretched around things. Kind of like plumber's tape. I don't think it has a ton of adhesive on it.
 
If you do a bit of searching on the internets, you'll find that someone had FrogLube analyzed and it's...


...wait for it...




...coconut oil, with a scent additive.


I have a bottle of it. Works. When this $35 bottle is gone, I'll buy a $6 jar of coconut oil. Either way, a tiny little bit goes a long way, and EVERYTHING rusts in my basement shop three minutes after I turn the lights off. Usually faster on finished knives that are paid for and due to be shipped the following morning. Of course.

I like the idea of food safe. Even if it's just polishing the brass on the titanic, as exposure to damn near everything else in the shop is deadly...
 
Matthew Gregory said:
If you do a bit of searching on the internets, you'll find that someone had FrogLube analyzed and it's...
...wait for it...
...coconut oil, with a scent additive.
Click to expand...

Actually the wintergreen oil is there as a thinner and emulsifier, not as a fragrance. It is one of the few (or only) reasonably safe substances that can thin vegetable oil. You can buy a quart of it (methyl salicylate) on Amazon. That is what I did; I mix it with refined coconut oil to make my own "Froglube" liquid (about 20% wintergreen) and paste (about 5% wintergreen).
 
Decent explanation. Thanks!!


It does smell nice. As it's not being used as a lubricant in my application, I think I'd skip the addition, though. Coconut oil seems to smear easily enough with just the heat from my fingers.


P.Brewster said:
Actually the wintergreen oil is there as a thinner and emulsifier, not as a fragrance. It is one of the few (or only) reasonably safe substances that can thin vegetable oil. You can buy a quart of it (methyl salicylate) on Amazon. That is what I did; I mix it with refined coconut oil to make my own "Froglube" liquid (about 20% wintergreen) and paste (about 5% wintergreen).
Click to expand...
 
Matthew Gregory said:
Decent explanation. Thanks!!
It does smell nice. As it's not being used as a lubricant in my application, I think I'd skip the addition, though. Coconut oil seems to smear easily enough with just the heat from my fingers.
Click to expand...

Agreed. I like to apply it with a paintbrush. The 15-20% wintergreen oil makes this possible, and allows the oil to spread/creep to neighboring nooks and crannies. With wintergreen, the oil wipes off very cleanly (i.e. it leaves a very thin, almost dry film) which makes subsequent handling and work a bit easier.
 
mete said:
If you use abrasive paper, files ,etc on carbon steel , then use the same on SS you are asking for trouble as carbon S particles will contaminate the SS and cause rust.
You could coat the SS with a good rust preventative like RIG then wrap in rust preventative paper .
You could use a dehumifier even in a small room to store blades.
You could move to AZ !
Click to expand...
Yeah i never had this problem when I lived in Colorado. The second I set up my shop in Houston all my steel looked like I just pulled it straight from the gulf.
 
After moving to Houston from Colorado Springs I finally had a chance to heat treat some.blades today. I briefly read online that this will help prevent rust witch is a serious issue that I'm not used to being from Colorado. I suppose I'll know by morning but does anyone know for sure? And if it does reduce rust will tempering throw that out the window? Regardless I plan on doing some oil shopping.
 
Welcome Zebby-D.

When pulling up a tread, look at the dates of recent posts. This thread is 5 years old.
 
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