S30V vs. Sandvik 14C28N
- Thread starter IGotStabbed
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I take it, you've tried both steels?
That answers it. It's not really an upgrade or a downgrade....just something different. Nice to see the knifemakers chime in, as I think not too many people would know better than them.
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:thumbup: Me too...
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I used 14C28N för s short run of my Mytuko Mini fixed blades was very happy with the results. I believe the N stands for Nitrogen but I can't remember for certain and that isnt on the datasheet.
I won't hesitate to use the steel again!
Forgot to say, I sure don't consider 14C28N a "downgrade" from S30V!
I won't hesitate to use the steel again!
Forgot to say, I sure don't consider 14C28N a "downgrade" from S30V!
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Thomas W
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Nope it doesn't.Does that "Heh" means what I think it does?
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Looks like you're one of the few. I know S30V is an american steel an all, and that for a lot of people that's reason enough to like it.
But if Kevin Wilkins thinks it's good stuff it can't be all that bad.
From what I know about steels as a hobbyist maker I'd probably chose 14C28N over S30V, the only reason for picking S30V over 14C28N would be to make an easier sale in the states.
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If you really knew as much about steel as "any real knife collector", you'd not have made the rest of that statement.
Nobody gonna ask TS what he plans on cutting with it? I don't think you can say what steel is better then the other without knowing it's purpose.
"This steel is better then that steel" is just blowing smoke if we don't know what it's for.
A superfine, shiney, mirror edge is great for a kitchen knife cutting soft things like vegetables and meats. A lower carbon stainless like 14c28n would shine here.
Start cutting twine, or nylon rope, duct tape, cardboard, moose hides, bones, etc and it's a whole new ballgame. S30V takes a pretty fine edge, but it also keeps some tooth for really slicing and sawing through the tough stuff. The high carbon keeps it cutting and cutting.
You can also profile the edge for different tasks, and get more life out of the edge depending on what you are cutting. Kitchen knife with a <15 degree edge can be easily touched up on a steel in the kitchen while you are prepping food. Out in the bush you might not have the time to mess around with sharpening, so a convex, or 30> degree edge might be a better option to keep it cutting for longer.
"This steel is better then that steel" is just blowing smoke if we don't know what it's for.
A superfine, shiney, mirror edge is great for a kitchen knife cutting soft things like vegetables and meats. A lower carbon stainless like 14c28n would shine here.
Start cutting twine, or nylon rope, duct tape, cardboard, moose hides, bones, etc and it's a whole new ballgame. S30V takes a pretty fine edge, but it also keeps some tooth for really slicing and sawing through the tough stuff. The high carbon keeps it cutting and cutting.
You can also profile the edge for different tasks, and get more life out of the edge depending on what you are cutting. Kitchen knife with a <15 degree edge can be easily touched up on a steel in the kitchen while you are prepping food. Out in the bush you might not have the time to mess around with sharpening, so a convex, or 30> degree edge might be a better option to keep it cutting for longer.
I have a choice between same knife ( Kershaw Blur Tanto ) - different steel blades.
both brand new: 13C26 came in a box with printed in China and made in USA sticker
14C28N came in plastic package with printed and made in USA
Both have USA made on blade....I went with the 14C28N after checking out this forum and other sites...
both brand new: 13C26 came in a box with printed in China and made in USA sticker
14C28N came in plastic package with printed and made in USA
Both have USA made on blade....I went with the 14C28N after checking out this forum and other sites...
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Hello waldo and welcome to the forums. Not a bad choice, but your comment may open the door to some discussion. As for the Made in China deal of the Tanto, that is in reference to where the box was made. All Blurs are made in Tualatin, OR.
The 13C is an older steel and has been discontinued and replaced by the 14C. This formula was made specifically for Kershaw. Better edge retention and increased rust resistance. Both will take a great edge. I still carry some of the 13C knives and really like the way it sharpens up. The 14C knife was in a blister pack, most likely made for a big box store like Walmart.
As for maintenance, you might want to wipe the blade down every week or so (depending on how it is used) with some oil or something like Tuff Cloth. Any gun grade oil will work, and you plan on using your Blur for food prep, while they won't hurt you in small quantities, you're probably safer going with plain old mineral oil. I really like my Blurs. Good solid knives with a great warranty. You should get a lot of use out of it!
The 13C is an older steel and has been discontinued and replaced by the 14C. This formula was made specifically for Kershaw. Better edge retention and increased rust resistance. Both will take a great edge. I still carry some of the 13C knives and really like the way it sharpens up. The 14C knife was in a blister pack, most likely made for a big box store like Walmart.
As for maintenance, you might want to wipe the blade down every week or so (depending on how it is used) with some oil or something like Tuff Cloth. Any gun grade oil will work, and you plan on using your Blur for food prep, while they won't hurt you in small quantities, you're probably safer going with plain old mineral oil. I really like my Blurs. Good solid knives with a great warranty. You should get a lot of use out of it!
I think they're about the same from what I've seen. The only real differences I've seen is that S30V has a little better wear resistance, but I like 14C's edge-holding capabilities when it comes to impact stress. I've had some gnarly deformations in S30V that took a long time to get out, whereas I dropped 14C on a honing stone and could not even see the deformation, and took it out in no time at all.
I haven't really owned my 14C knife that long and haven't had as many accidental impacts though, so who knows if it's really better at edge-holding, but I think how quickly it sharpens is amazing. I'm not saying S30V takes that long to sharpen, but 14C sharpens faster than some of my 440 knives, so even if I do get a deformation as bad as on my S30V knife, it won't take nearly as long to sharpen out. Plus it kind of creates the illusion of taking a sharper edge too since it's so easy to sharpen and strop.
I'll just put it this way... S30V is a great steel, and I don't see anything wrong with it. However, as an average consumer, if you offered me the same knife in S30V $25 more than the same knife in 14C I'd take the 14C in a heartbeat. The two perform so closely to each other that I don't really feel the need to nitpick, but I definitely like the price of 14C knives more so far.
If i had to actually find two contrasting points, I would say that 14C holds an actual razor's edge a little longer than S30V does before it dulls, but S30V's edge just keeps on trucking while coarse whereas 14C jut gets dulled out. So far I haven't really encountered the need for that gain in wear resistance and have been wishing my Kulgera came in 14C so I wouldn't have to worry about how long it will take to sharpen it if I hit a staple or something.
I haven't really owned my 14C knife that long and haven't had as many accidental impacts though, so who knows if it's really better at edge-holding, but I think how quickly it sharpens is amazing. I'm not saying S30V takes that long to sharpen, but 14C sharpens faster than some of my 440 knives, so even if I do get a deformation as bad as on my S30V knife, it won't take nearly as long to sharpen out. Plus it kind of creates the illusion of taking a sharper edge too since it's so easy to sharpen and strop.
I'll just put it this way... S30V is a great steel, and I don't see anything wrong with it. However, as an average consumer, if you offered me the same knife in S30V $25 more than the same knife in 14C I'd take the 14C in a heartbeat. The two perform so closely to each other that I don't really feel the need to nitpick, but I definitely like the price of 14C knives more so far.
If i had to actually find two contrasting points, I would say that 14C holds an actual razor's edge a little longer than S30V does before it dulls, but S30V's edge just keeps on trucking while coarse whereas 14C jut gets dulled out. So far I haven't really encountered the need for that gain in wear resistance and have been wishing my Kulgera came in 14C so I wouldn't have to worry about how long it will take to sharpen it if I hit a staple or something.
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The more I use the as sandvik steels the more respect I have for them!!! Nothing gets sharper!!!
I agree. S30V is a great steel, but more trouble than it's worth, in my personal opinion. Taking into consideration the price points of knives featuring these steels, I just don't see enough difference in use, and Kershaw makes an excellent product. 14C28N has served me well enough that I've stored my S30V EDCs in favor of a few Kershaws and an Endura (VG10 is still my favorite stainless).
No one who knew anything about steel would make this post. Steel properties are complex and don't easily reduce to better or worse - rather they tend to be "better or worse FOR X."
No, N = nitrogen - like INFI. The idea is that 14c28n should be extremely corrosion resistant. This stuff is also supposed to combine the ability to take a super keen edge (which is NOT as some people seem to think just a matter of having the highest RC possible - you need lots of carbides for wear resistance, but they should be nice and fine rather than large) with easy sharpening (again helped by the fine carbides, I believe).
