afishhunter
Gold Member
- Joined
- Oct 21, 2014
- Messages
- 13,176
Anyone know what the factory edge angles on the early (1977~1982) 7OT was? (1095 not "Schrade +" if it matters.)
It felt like 45~55 degrees inclusive on the one I recently received. (It appeared to still have the factory edge.) It feels more obtuse than my circa 1990's "Schrade +" 6OT and 7OT, and doesn't cut/slice as well as I remember the later 6OT/7OT do.
I thinned and reprofiled the edge on this one to around 20 degrees inclusive. (lay primary blade bevel flat on stone, raise spine just enough so the primary bevel don't drag, create a secondary bevel of 10DPS; give err take a couple degrees.)
Before y'all start the "That's too fine ... won't hold an edge/it'll chip/roll... you should sharpen to 15DPS..." lecture, I've sharpened all but three of my knives•• to 10DPS (give or take 2 err 3 degrees) regardless of if 10xx or one of the 400/420 series blade steel, since I got my first knife at age 5, sixty years ago.
Back before the "tactical knife" fad starting around 1980 something, Case included sharpening instructions with every knife they sold. "Hold the knife 10 degrees to the sharpening stone ..." 20 degrees inclusive was the "normal" edge angle for a knife. I believe my circa 1978~1986 Old Timer 858 has a 10DPS factory edge.
30 ~ 40 degrees inclusive was what you sharpened an axe, hatchet, or Tommy Hawk to.
I've not experienced excessive dulling, rolled edges, or chipping, using them to whittle, clean fish, peel critters, scrape gaskets, cut re-enforced heater, radiator, and post-mix soda fountain hose, fan belts, wet and dry cardboard, food prep, debarking dry wood for kindling, scraping moss ...
Truth to tell, the only knife I've ever had with a chipped blade is the Buck 460(?) "Meritor", which had/has a chip out of the box, when purchased new in 1997~1999(?).
One of these decades I'll send it back to Buck to have the chip removed, and a new handle installed. (hopefully not rubber) Even sitting in a drawer, the original rubber handle deteriorated and went "Ew. Nasty", just like the Twist Grip shifters on my Giant Cypress DX, purchased new, April 6 1995, (it was my birthday present) and due to defective Kenda tires, (I thought it was over-long spokes, for years. Turned out to be tiny cracks in the sidewalls.) might have all of 190 miles on it, rather than 8,000 to 10,000 miles a year I put on my other bicycles.
(I been "car free" since 1995) It was stored inside, too.
••exceptions: Ontario 499 "Jet Pilot Survival Knife", Buck 460(?) "Meritor", and an acquired used and abused circa 1974 Buck two dot 110.
It felt like 45~55 degrees inclusive on the one I recently received. (It appeared to still have the factory edge.) It feels more obtuse than my circa 1990's "Schrade +" 6OT and 7OT, and doesn't cut/slice as well as I remember the later 6OT/7OT do.
I thinned and reprofiled the edge on this one to around 20 degrees inclusive. (lay primary blade bevel flat on stone, raise spine just enough so the primary bevel don't drag, create a secondary bevel of 10DPS; give err take a couple degrees.)
Before y'all start the "That's too fine ... won't hold an edge/it'll chip/roll... you should sharpen to 15DPS..." lecture, I've sharpened all but three of my knives•• to 10DPS (give or take 2 err 3 degrees) regardless of if 10xx or one of the 400/420 series blade steel, since I got my first knife at age 5, sixty years ago.
Back before the "tactical knife" fad starting around 1980 something, Case included sharpening instructions with every knife they sold. "Hold the knife 10 degrees to the sharpening stone ..." 20 degrees inclusive was the "normal" edge angle for a knife. I believe my circa 1978~1986 Old Timer 858 has a 10DPS factory edge.
30 ~ 40 degrees inclusive was what you sharpened an axe, hatchet, or Tommy Hawk to.
I've not experienced excessive dulling, rolled edges, or chipping, using them to whittle, clean fish, peel critters, scrape gaskets, cut re-enforced heater, radiator, and post-mix soda fountain hose, fan belts, wet and dry cardboard, food prep, debarking dry wood for kindling, scraping moss ...
Truth to tell, the only knife I've ever had with a chipped blade is the Buck 460(?) "Meritor", which had/has a chip out of the box, when purchased new in 1997~1999(?).
One of these decades I'll send it back to Buck to have the chip removed, and a new handle installed. (hopefully not rubber) Even sitting in a drawer, the original rubber handle deteriorated and went "Ew. Nasty", just like the Twist Grip shifters on my Giant Cypress DX, purchased new, April 6 1995, (it was my birthday present) and due to defective Kenda tires, (I thought it was over-long spokes, for years. Turned out to be tiny cracks in the sidewalls.) might have all of 190 miles on it, rather than 8,000 to 10,000 miles a year I put on my other bicycles.
(I been "car free" since 1995) It was stored inside, too. ••exceptions: Ontario 499 "Jet Pilot Survival Knife", Buck 460(?) "Meritor", and an acquired used and abused circa 1974 Buck two dot 110.